Could be the lid switch is malfunctioning. FYI: The lid must be closed for spin on older washer. It must be closed
for wash and spin on newer ones. The lid has a striker in it that
pushes against the lid switch arm. This switch allows for spin IF the
lid is closed. The switch may have failed. Mechanically the striker may
be broken or the actuator arm may be broken. The end that the harness
plugs into has 3 holes. As you can see above the lid switch has 3
wires. 2 live wires and one green ground. You can jump the washer out
using a horseshoe shaped wire or equivilent. Newer models have the
ground wire on one end. Not good! Look for that before attempting to
jump it out. At any rate their are 3 wires. One of them is always green
and always mounted to the frame. The other 2 are live. You can jump
them to magically make that puppy spin and pump. Not recommended to
leave it that way. For testing purposes only. 
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Must see tip on direct drive washers with 4 videos that show how to replace lid switch, coupler, pump, and drive coupling brought to you by Red: My FixYa Direct drive washer tip
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Sounds like the spin coil/brake solenoid is burnt out or broken. This is a coil situated on the motor plate under the machine with a lever attatched to it. When the machine goes into spin cycle, this solenoid pulls the brake away from the outer drum to allow the drum and agitator to spin together. The shaft that goes into this coil should move in and out freely. If tight, replace spin coil/brake solenoid.
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