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Number 1 Do NOT! use this dryer until it is fixed, it a a fire hazard. You will need to get the entire power circut checked for shorts. Make sure the motor has been checked under the same conditions as it is used in the dryer, with a capasitor and changing directions etc.
NEVER EVER !!! Change a Circut breaker with a higher value than the one which is there. You will burn the house down. This is a serious fire risk. The power cables over heat and arc then burn, if the breaker is not right.
If this is a 220 VAC dryer use a voltmeter at the wall plug. Chcking from common, usually the leg with the angled blade, to each of the hot legs, each with the straight blade. You need to have 110 VAC in both of these. If there is only 110 at one of the legs the motor will run but the element will not heat. If you find only one leg has 110 VAC try a new circuit breaker in the breaker box. If the breaker is bad it will appear to reset, but still not send current. If you have 110 on both legs check in the dryer for a burned off wire at the timer or element.
depending on which model roper dryer it can be a thermal fuse,high-limit thermostat,cycling switch,burned off wire in control panel,check each side of the heating element to ground and find 125 v.a.c. then on the side of the element that has low or no voltage on it to ground start at the element and back track the components leading to the dead leg on the element till you find 125 vac to ground and replace or repair component or wire,then you should get 240 to 250vac across heating element terminals
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Check the thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) that is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation.
Please check the bellow link to have an in-depth knowledge as to when the dryer wont heat up...
Hello there: If there is no heat or heat sometimes please try these solutions Heating elementOften a dryer heating element burns out, but
doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is
simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with
an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to
replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.Thermal fuseOn many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to
the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about
an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white
plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You
can't re-set it.)WiringA common problem is for the main wiring connection
from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because
the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be
only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to
the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is
no heat usually means your only getting110 volts into your dryer.....you need the full 220volts to run heaters....with voltage meter you checkwires on the plug OUTLET...or inside back cover REDwire to WHITEwire =110v.........BLACKwire to WHITEwire =110v.....REDwire to BLACKwire =220v. you probably have aBAD 220V. 30 amp circut breaker..or if still using FUSES one is burnt out (In house electric panel) or burnt off RED or BLACKwire in back of dryer.....
Verify 220 volts at the terminal block where the cord attaches.
Also, 120 volts from each leg to neutral at the same check point.
Check the thermal fuse at the top of the heat element canister for continuity.
Check the high limit switch at the heater terminals for continuity.
check breaker first it will run with the breaker tripped but it wont heat so turn off and on then check dryer for heat.dryers have a thermal fuse when they go bad it wont heat they are located on the element cage and are smaller than the thermostats.and if that is good then most likely element.but it usually helps to know what brand?