How do I replace a broken dual infinite switch on my Amana AKT3040SS ceramic cooktop?

PartSelect Number PS1016429

http://www.partselect.com/PS1016429-GE-WB24T10119-Infinite-Control-Switch.htm?SourceCode=5&SearchTerm=jp930&ModelNum=jp930

could be element so included its part number incase needed
http://www.partselect.com/PS243902-GE-WB30T10044-Dual-Haliant-Element-with-Limiter-9-2500W.htm?SourceCode=5&SearchTerm=jp930&ModelNum=jp930

Hi,
They are not that hard to replace and you can easily buy the part online...
Here is a tip about how to buy appliance parts online.

How to Buy Appliance Parts Online
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

heatman101

Fit two switches. Although this might be as expensive as a new cooktop.

The control you're wiggling (infinite switch)needs replacement. Model# and the position of the dual element (right or left, rear or front) is needed to get the part number.

Replace your burner switch, order with model number, sometimes called an infinite switch. This is a common problem, although we suspect that power surges are causing some of these problems. Appliance Specialists

It will need either a dual infinite or infinite switch, If the burner has an inner an outer element then it requires the dual.

Firstly turn power off at breaker.

The unit needs to be removed from the cut out and the cover removed from below the swtichs. the knob taken off and the secureing screws removed, then take note of the layout of the wiring and the poistion of the switch, then swap the wires, reassemble test and then re-install

sounds like you need a new thermostat

Sure, I meant to get a copy of the schematic last night so that I could send it to you with the changes. I'll get it tonight and send it to you along with the info I have now. The only thing that will be different is that you won't have independent controls of the dual element burner. For me that was fine cause my wife and I never use just the smaller burner but rather always both. The part #1009577 from repair clinic.com is an infinite switch which is already being used in the cook top for the largest burner or if not (cause I actually didn't look) for sure it is used in the JEC9536, just the wider model. This part is rated from 8.9 - 11.0 amps or 2,640 watts, when you hook the two burners together I believe it adds up to 3,000 watts so the infinite switch (the biggest I could locate) is slightly under sized. However, I felt most things especially electrical, are over engineered for safety any ways. When you remove the circuit board you will have to drill out the two slots where the two mounting screws will secure the new switch, or you can do what I did and stick a screw driver in the slots and stretch them slightly (very easy to do). You'll need to find two screws that fit the new switch for mounting ( not too long, if your not sure take one off one of the other infinite switches and match it up). I'll have to get back with you on the wiring, it is rather simple though, most of the connections are the same as the other infinite switches. The grainger.com part number 2FBT6 is just a snap action thermal switch that will replace the thermal sensor that went to the circuit board to light up the hot surface indicator. I tried to use the existing sensor but the hot surface indicator lamp stays lit, so I figured that the sensor was probably a 0-10volt or 4-20mAmp switch that the circuit board monitored and turned on the hot surface indicator accordingly. That is a simple hook up also, however, I have not installed that yet cause I did not find out about the thermal sensor not working for the hot surface indicator until after I put in the infinite switch. Tonight I will install it and let you know what wires go where along with a marked up schematic, maybe even photos if you would like.

If the new switch is a substitute, should have come with instructions.
If no instructions, I would suggest matching the markings on the switch next to each terminal.eg, match terminal marking on old switch as L1 to marking on new switch as L1. The markings are industry standard and should match from old switch to new switch.

If you need further assistance, let me know
Regards,
reg501

The switch under that knob is bad.  It's called an infinite switch.  As far as the elements go, first thing to check is for proper voltage (220) to the cooktop.  Let me know what you find.