At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
LF indicates a Long Fill; the washer didn't start the agitation part of the wash cycle. It either took too long to reach the needed water level or the water level pressure switch didn't send the signal to the control. Sometimes, the control board can't receive the signal. Since you are getting water into the washer, check how fast the water is coming in. The system is expecting to fill in about 8 minutes. Since the water level is determined by a difference between air and water using a hose to the pressure switch, check that the pressure switch hose isn't pinched or damages. Also make sure that there isn't a clog in the hose. You may need to replace the pressure switch assembly. Check the wires to the pressure switch and at the control board for damage or corrosion on the connections. If the wiring is good, the control board may need to be replaced if replacing the water level pressure switch doesn't solve the problem.
I hope this helps. If you need a parts list, please add a comment with the model number of the washer. (It's usually on the frame of the washer under the lid and on the back of the machine.) Since the washer is 15 years old, you may need to consider replacing it, if the control board is faulty.
Verify inlet water valve is functioning correctly by selecting each temp while machine is running. Usually COLD temps will run just ever-so-slightly faster than HOT temp and WARM temp will run faster than both temps separately. Rinse cycle is usually COLD water so i'd suspect the COLD side is malfunctioning. Hope this helps. If not let me know.
Turn off the water to the machine. Disconnect the cold water hose from the back of the machine and put it in a large bucket. Turn on the water to see if you get full-pressure cold water from the hose. If not, the shut-off valve or other plumbing has a problem.
If you do get cold water from the hose, check the strainer inside the hose fitting on the back of the washer. Clean it if it is clogged. If you still don't get cold water in the machine, you have a problem with either the solenoid valve or the cold water fill contacts in the timer (the timer won't start until the tub is up to the selected level, but if the valve isn't opening or the supply line is otherwise blocked, the machine will never fill). Sometimes in this case you can hear the solenoid valve humming (normally the sound is masked by the running water).
If the problem is a clogged strainer, clean out the hot water strainer also.
I find I get better wash results with warm water (runs both hot and cold for the wash cycle). The soap is more active than in cold water, so I don't need quite so much, and the machine doesn't take as long to finish a cycle since it fills faster. Of course, the cold water has to be running to get the energy savings compared to hot only.
The LF error is a water supply fault. Both water supplies must be connected and fully opened. The inlet hoses and valves both have strainers that may need cleaning as this could obstruct the water flow and also check that you don't have any water leaks. The unit requires a minimum water pressure to operate so anything that could prevent the unit getting this pressure will cause this fault. Hope this helps you out!
If you mean its leaking anytime you have water in the drum,the first thing to check is the drain hose connection at the back of the washer,You'll want to do this with the washer pulled out,(don't let the drain hose drop below the water level or you'll have a mess)If its not leaking there you should be able to look under the washer & see which connection it is(usually the inlet to the pump) Might be as simple as tightening the hose clamps.Hope this helps
Try making sure that your draining hose isnt jammed all the way down the hole. When you installed it the u shaped accessory was needed for the draining hose. Try pulling the draining hose out...curve the front and zip tying it to your cold water valve. This will allow it to drain properly and not get water push back into the drum causing it to be unlevel
LF means long fill, so if your hoses arnt blocked and you are getting good flow, try looking at your drain pipe, it should only go about 6 inches into the actual drain and zip tie it there. any further it could syphon the water out of your machine.
×