I read your post about open circuit wiring on the Logitech 350 headset. I think I'm experiencing this same problem. Do you have any idea where I might locate some instruction on how to crack the case without damaging the unit?
Had the same problem, no headphone speakers would work.
First use a flat head screwdriver and insert in between leather padding
and plastic case and pry apart. Best to start at one area, insert a wedge
and pry further along. It will take a bit of force before it pops apart.
Take out 4 small philips screws
I found that the wire had broke right at the entry grommet. I pulled the
wire through and wiggled it and the speakers went on Logitech 350 Headset Casing - 37db2b9.jpg />
In my case I felt it was best to redo all the wiring. I first took these pictures
to have a map and pulled through an extra 4" of wire through and cut/desoldered
the wires.
Here are the origiLogitech 350 Headset Casing - 4017e98.jpgconnections at the speaker
and what mLogitech 350 Headset Casing - ff9bb87.jpgcommon. This was the wire that was broken
inside.
I re-soldered all the connections and separated them as best I could with
electrical tape (no shrink). Put everything back together and so far
seems to work fine.
Hi,
Most headsets are plastic and therefore easily damaged so I would suggest you do it nice and slow. Often they are designed to simply snap together to form the shell covering of the actual speakers. You would need to remove the rubber covering. Once done, please inspect and determine where the halves are pressed together. Often there would be 3 or 4 areas where the latch/snap locks are. You would need something to pry them apart such as a nail pusher. If you are lucky, the snaps would be visible if the design uses a slot where the snaps lock in place.
Next would be to use a DVM (or a continuity tester) to check the speakers and the wires. The speaker should read something like 4~8 ohms while the wires theoretically should be zero. However since the wires are relatively small, it is possible to have some reading other than zero. This would still be OK, its the no reading (deflection) that would indicate where the open circuit is.
Since this is a USB design, there would be some electronics inside as well. If only one side is the issue then your problem could be after the electronics going to the small speakers; if both are not working, then it is possible that the electronics is in question and/or even the wires leading to the PC.
This is more of a challenge and an interesting DIY but from a tech point of view, it is often easier for the user to simply replace if and when convenient. Other consideration should include availability of replacement components if and when determined which is/are defective. Might it not be to your advantage to simply replace the entire headset?
Whatever route you choose, I wish you luck.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Kind regards and thank you for using FixYa.
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I also have this issue. For me the wires are getting worn at the headset entry point between the earpiece and head-bar, just inside the ball joint. I opened it up -exactly as described here- but found that it's going to be difficult to splice a replacement wire in that section, since there is little to no room. Without having to pull out, rerun and re-solder all the wire from within the head-bar and opposite earpiece, what are my other options? I'm not sure how difficult a task that would be. I'll give splicing a shot, first. Then, if unsuccessful, rewiring and soldering (though I'll have to get some solder). Either way, I also plan to add some extra heat-shrink around the wires that run through the ball joint, to prevent future wear.
Solution 1 was great ! thank you for the photos ! I just fixed my headsets !
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