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Re: compessor is running hot, fan is not running
Need to know brand and model. which fan was replaced ( evap or cond ) . if evap fan it may be the door sw as some model only run fan wth door closed. if it's the cond (fan) motor then ck wiring at compressor . or borken wire. in or about the compresser area .. hope thes help . mm
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If this is happening while compressor is running normally , first check temperature of condenser coils (black tubing)while running. If hot to touch,compressor is ok.(Good news)If not hot ,it's shot,or your defrost heater stuck on.(not likely)
If compessor not coming on at all it could be a control problem.eg thermostat ,or stuck defrost timer.
If compessor wants to come on or you hear clicking ,suspect start relay or start capacitor.
The motor will run hot/overload if wrong size or too long cord is used. Also if pressure is set too high (most set at 125 ~ 135 at shut-off). In-tank checkvalve will also have effect on motor by loading the compressor at start-up. Easy test. Run compessor till you have over 100lbs in tank then unplug from power. At this point try to turn the motor /pump by hand, it should turn rather/very easily (this test is hard to do if the motor /pump is completely enclosed, you need to be able to turn the pump even if by truning the fan blade). If it does not turn easily let all the air pressure out of tank and then try to turn by hand. If it turns easily with tank empty try one more test. Run compessor till the pressure switch turns it off. Then unplug machine and turn compessor again by hand, should be easy. If not easy then unloader / checkvalve not working. The checkvalve could be leaking air back from the tank loading the pump. Replace parts as needed.
Compressors are normally 100-120 degrees when being cooled by a condenser fan motor. If there is no fan motor near the compressor then it can run up to 180 degrees, so the compressor temp by itself doesnt mean much. You can take an ampmeter and clamp it around one of the wires to the compressor to see if it is running, drawing anywhere from 1-2.5 amps or trying to start, in which case it may draw up to 20 amps every 3-5 minutes.
Before you worry about where to get parts,you need to know what is wrong and what parts you will need. When a compressor does not run but the fan motor does, then either the compessor is bad (in which case you need refrigeration expertise) or the starter components have failed ( in which case you can replace. The two most common failed parts are the start relay or the overload (both attached to the compressor. Goodluck, Macgivor
sounds like u have a air flow problem , most common problem could be the damper or also called the difuser. it opens and closes to let air into the fresh food side. also if the frz fan motor is not working , then it will also not be able to send air to the fresh food cycle even if the difusser or damper is open. 1st check to see if you hear a fan sound in the frz. if u do then its not a evaporator fan motor problem. if u dont then u may have a bad motor. the motor should be running antytime u hear the compessor running. hope this helps
It could be a fan motor growling, isolate the sound from freezer or refrig or the back. or during some refrigeration cycles the freon surging can also sound like water gushing or growling usually at start up though. The fans can be vibrating, hitting or going fast to slow dc motors.
It could be smelling burnt for a few reasons. The best case scenario would be that the condensor fan is stuck which is causing the compressor to get hot and burn, in this case you would just find the obstruction and remove it. Or the condensor's fan motor could be bad, causing the fan to spin slowly which would also cause the compressor to get hot and burn, in this case you would replace the fan motor. Or the cooler has a restriction in the refrigeration lines causing the compressor to work harder which causes the compressor to get hot and burn. In this case call a refrigeration technicion to clear the lines.