I just spoke with the mechanic at my RV dealership and he said the sticky side goes on the a/c unit. You only have to turn it on it's side to do this. Just wait 1 hour after re-installing the unit on your RV before turning it on.
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It could be the sun roof. It also could be clogged drains from the sun roof. It may also be door seals Leaking. It could also be leaking around the bottom of the windshield. A good way to narrow it down is to get inside the car and have someone spray the outside of the car with a water hose. while you look for water leaking inside of the car. If it does it while the ac is on may be a clogged ac drain. however it usually just leaks on passenger side when it is that. well good luck.
I suspect that something has shifted and is causing you trouble. If you can give me the model number off the base of roof unit, and tell me whether it's mechanical controls at ceiling or thermostat on wall would certainly help to describe proper procedure for troubleshooting. Don't give up yet, may be quite simple. First of all shut all power off to unit and go up on roof and remove the 4 screws and lift cover off. Take a look for any damage especially at top of compressor where wiring is going in. Remove the 2 nuts at top of compressor holding cap on over connections and take a look for loose or broken wires or connectors under there. If not experienced with any of this, use a pair of insulated needle nose pliers to be safe, to wiggle wires etc., otherwise please ask someone experienced with electrical. Then if that's looking good, follow wires from compressor back to cover on side which is usually held on by a screw and remove it. You should see (if right model) some round and oval capacitors. Check to make sure none of them have shifted around and wires are touching each other or any metal around them. If you find any loose or off terminals, use pliers only and keep hands on insulated part of pliers to replace it. Let me know what you find. REMEMBER!! If your not experienced in this area, don't touch it and wait for someone who is. Capacitors store lots of voltage, even when power is off, and can be very dangerous.!!!
If it's leaking inside where filter cover is, then real good chance the drains being plugged is the only problem. If water (condensation) not running off roof when operating in cool mode, then I'd bet drains, which are located under unit on roof, and you should see them sticking down like buttons. They have a hole in side that needs cleaning with a pipe cleaner or similar to open them up. If need be, shut off power to unit and remove top cover on roof unit and look for the drain holes in base, and clean them out. If water comes in while raining, but AC not running, then it's gasket. That is remedied by removing ceiling assembly (just screws) and 4 bolts that pull/hold the upper and lower assemblies together, unplug wiring to upper unit, and simply lift it off, change gasket and re-install. Tighten those 4 bolts equally when gasket is aligned properly over hole, only until gasket is approx 1/2, original thickness. Plug harness back in and your done. (about an hours work.) Only other thing that may be wrong is styrofoam drip tray for cooling unit, under cover on roof may have a crack , allowing condensation to leak in. If that 's the case, you can try to find a sealant compatible with styrofoam to seal those cracks.
The oils used in the two different refrigerants are not compatible with each other. The will actually plug up some of the system tubing over time and will eat away at the compressor windings. The roof top unit should not have any rubber seals to worry about like a car.
The only thing you can do is remove the R-134A from the system, flush the system with liquid R-22, replace the compressor recharge it.
I know that is not what you want to hear but anything less than that will only be a short lived fix at best
The roof A/C unit has a foam rubber seal/one piece gasket that fits around the part you see inside the coach but must be put in pklace before the unit is inserted in the roof opening. Replacing is relatively easy but you will need to remove the interior trim Disconnect the wiring from the coach to the unit and remove the four bolts holding the unit in place. Then lift out the A/C.to replace the seal. They do leak because of age and compression by units weight. Good Luck
Fairly easy. The only thing that you must figure out is how many amps the heat strips will draw. Make sure the fuses and the breaker switch can handle them. And be aware your electric bills will shoot up.
There is a bolt on each corner that tighten from the inside. You will see them when you remove the inside cover. There should be foam weather stripping around the opening that the unit sits on and then it's tightened up.
Hello; Those roof tops can be noisy. Are you able to determine what is causing it? The fan? The A/C pump? Over tume, the vibration isolators that are rubber cushions the pump is mounted on, get weathered and hard and they no longer absorb the vibrations of the running pump. Those are easily chked and changed. The next point of excessive noise is the unit as a whole is tranmitting the combination of all the vibrating parts including its own housing. Here too we have a remedy. The roof unit has a seal between it and the camper roof around the hole it is fitted in. The seal is foam rubber and reasonably thick enougth to serve a purpose more than to seal out water and air. After and over time this seal ends up crushed from the weight of the a/c unit. Then the A/c unit comes in contact and is actually resting on yhe roof with what is now a very flat hard gaske. The roof unit is now vibrating the roof. This is as destructive as it is annoying. Ok? Now let's get rid of 80-90% of the noise. Check and replace compressor vibration isolator mounts. There are 4 bolts holding down the A/C unit. Sccess them from the inside by removing the ceiling trim and cover.There should be one on each corner. Bolts removed, one person push up on the unit and another on top lifting the unit. There are wires going to the unit and those may need to be disconnected. Clean the roof and the a/c where yhe seal goes.You can get a new seal from camping world or rv supply. Have your measurements, Unit make and model when you go.Assembly is just backtracking. On assembly, thinhs to pay attention to are:
Put the new seal on the A/C unit, not on the roof. It takes two people to ligft and set the unit back into the hole and center it in the hole. Don't slide it on the seal. lift it if it hs to be moved or the seal may roll over..
The wiring disconnected earlier must be dealt with and put in place for reconnecting.
Now start the bolts that hold the unit down.
Make sure-- Unit is centered
Wires can be reconnected
The four hold down bolts have their washers.
Someone go topside and verify the seal is properly in place. Measureing the for corners fo even height is one way to ck and looking under the unit is another. Now tighten the four bolts evenly. corner to cross corner. measuring again will help confirn its pulled down evenly. Pull it down no more than 1/4 to 5/16 of the seal thickness. Wire it up and put the trim and plastics back on and light it off. (run it and ck for noise and vibration. NOTE!!! The A/C unit cannot touch any solid part of the roof. Reason it was centered. Always ck the unit before each trip as you would any other psrts on the exterior of the camper. Good Luck Angie.
Does water drip out of unit on the roof while running ? If you look under the unit on the roof, you should see one or two little drains sticking down., that may be plugged up. Piece of wire or something and poke in the holes on the sides of those drains to make sure they're clear. Usually there is a plastic/nylon pan on roof unit to catch that moisture, and drain it off. Could be overflow because of the plugged drains, or I have seen the odd one crack but not too much recently, mostly back 5 yrs ago or so they had a run of them.