Re-assemble the knob in the high range of the warm position, about 180 degrees from the "OFF" position. Install the long prong of the spring inwards (away from you as you look at the knob). That prong has to go in between the metal stop bar (again, about 180 degrees from "OFF") and a ridge on the inner knob. You should be able to reinstall everything while the spring is loose in this position. The only time you'll feel spring tension is if you rotate the knob counterclockwise towards "HOT". You won't feel any spring tension as you rotate the know clockwise back towards "OFF".
I figured it out after a fresh start in about 5 minutes.
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This could be a tough one without being able to examine it. First, have you precisely followed the relighting instructions printed on the heater (turn the knob to "pilot," hold down the button, etc.)? One other thought: the gas pressure to the pilot flame is very low - if some water got into its little supply pipe it could keep gas from getting to the pilot burner device. You would have to disconnect the pilot tube from the gas controller valve and blow it clear, then try again. Dealing with this type of gas problem can create dangerous conditions if not done properly. If water got into the gas controller valve (the one with the knobs and buttons) it will have to be replaced. If unsure, consult a plumber.
You need to provide more detailed information, such as the make, model, and year of the unit. In any case, if it is not functioning properly, regardless of type or model, SHUT IT DOWN, until it can be properly serviced by a professional. DO not risk injury!
Your brand and model number are not known, nor is type of gas control valve. Location of water heater, recent events, age and other factors are also unknown. Copy following links for possible troubleshoot resources, including troubleshoot by type of gas control valve: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/
Have you felt the heater hoses to see if they are both equally hot? It would indicate there is water flow. If you do not seem to have flow, disconnect one heater hose at the core and the other at the block and take a water hose and force water into the long hose you removed at the block.
Then if there is no flow it is either a clogged heater core or a control valve, or a block circulation problem. The Valve shown at PartsGeek.com costs $13.93 and is part#5337-07026431 in a Four Seasons brand. It is Electrically controlled and appears to fit inline with the hose.
There are differences in part numbers for other Year models and the others are for a 5/8 hose. If it is electric it may have a separate fuse. Check an Owners manual or with the autoparts counter. There is also reference to a Super cooling package and differences in Diesel applications. Now if you have noticed a Vacuum heater control, the knob to vary the heat breaks and splits. You turn the knob and the shaft behind it does not move.
I would try to check the Control knob on the dash first, as the Electric valve may just be for off and on and the Control knob regulates the blend doors. Turn the shaft behind the knob with a pair of pliers and see if the heat returns.
IF when the spa control calls for heat and it trips the breaker when the heater comes on then you have a bad heating element and it will need to be changed. Disconnect the power to the spa. Disconnect the two wires going to the heater and then turn the spa back on. If the spa stays running without the heater attached then that will be your source of trouble. New heater and you will be all fixed up.
Did you have the main gas valve shut off to the house? I know this sounds like a really dumb question, but if the gas line is installed and sealed properly where it goes into the control valve inlet, how did you go about checking for the presence of gas there? If there is in fact, gas going into the valve and no gas coming out at the pilot when you are holding the pilot knob, then you have to have a defective control or a pilot gas tube that is smashed completely shut. It is also possible that dirt and/or debris got into the control unit during the installation process and has things clogged up.
The car stalling when warmed up is most likely a fuel pump. If the vehicle is not awd then the pump acces is from the trunk. Pull back the carpeting and youll see a circular plate with wires coming out of it with some nuts holding it down. Remove plate and theres your pump. Remember to index your pump, take a grease marker and mark where the tubes coming from the assembly are pointing, if it isnt indexed correctly, your fuel gauge wont read properly. The heater fan issue could be a couple of things, do you have ecc? Like can you move a knob to a set temperature and move another knob to the auto setting? If so its probably the fan power unit. If you have manual climate control then it is probably the switch. Hope this helps.
The water heater thermostat control is usually under a plate/cover toward the bottom of the water heater. Remove the cover (first turn off the power to the water heater) and look for a dial with temperatures marked on it.
You can adjust the thermostat using its knob (if it has one) or a screwdriver. There may be insulation covering the thermostat, so you may have to pull some of that out of the way to see the thermostat.