I was getting power to amp before then 1 day it just stopped, i blew a fuse under the hood but i replaced thta but still no jam

Question edited for a LOT more clarity and a real sentence.
Question moved to model category.

First you have to find why it blew!

https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Dodge+Dakota+2.5.+I+blew+the+80+amp+fuse

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All fuses get their power from the battery. The under dash fuse box is no exception.
In the under-HOOD fuse and relay box, there will be a 'Master' fuse that sends power to the other components. This will be a 50 or 75 Amp fuse. Check every fuse you see in that under-HOOD box, and one of the mains is probably out.
You'll need to find out why it blew, because there is definitely a reason when the big ones blow. It's a major short circuit.
Did you replace a starter, or alternator, or battery before the problem bagan?

check the hazard switch pull the switch and put a volt meter on the connections with wiring connected to switch if it don't respond or just gives you a L.O your switch is bad and shorting out could happen just from being used a lot or something internal broke switch for that shouldn't be all but 50$ or just go to a parts/scrap yard

Hard to say without make, year, and model-but check all fuses in the power distribution box under the hood- ignition, alternator fuse, etc.-all of them, the small ones and the maxi-fuses. All fuses are pretty cheap. If you still have nothing, you may need a wiring diagram to check for fusible links that would be power distributors right off or near the battery. Fusible links work much like a fuse, and most have been replaced by maxi-fuses, but many vehicles have both. If there is a designated main fuse, it should be in the distribution block or box under the hood.

u have a dead short on main live wire check for overheated wires

Many cars have the cooling fan on a thermostat or time delay, to allow it to run for a short period of time after the engine turns off, to cool the engine off. You may have just never noticed it before. So I wouldn't worry about that.
Your real problem is the blowing fuses, apparently you have a short somewhere in your wiring. Putting in bigger and bigger fuses is a great way to set fire to your wiring harness. It's possible that the wire is pinched or chafed somewhere, and perhaps when you hit a bump just right, it touches and shorts.
You may have to take this to the Chevy dealer or a GOOD independent shop to have them chase it down. Unless someone out there knows exactly what this is, it could be a tough one to find.

With a small flat tip screwdriver, pry the master window switch up & with a test light check for power to the switch, if power is present & all windows not working, replace master switch. be sure window lock is not engaged.

Check ALL your fuses (under-hood as well as in-dash). It is not uncommon for a current surge in excess of 100 amps to blow other fuses.

disconnect the negative battery terminal, replace the fuse with all the wires hooked up to the amp and reconnect the battery terminal, that way the initial surge of power goes through the negative terminal and not your inline fuse. That should solve your problem.

if you live in a town that has a remote starter installation shop you can just go there and buy a new pinswitch for around 6 dollars i recomend changing the location of it under the hood
and if your red power wire has only 15 amps of protection you should switch it for a 30 amp fuse thats the minimum that is going to be pulled when the unit cranks the starter wire so the 15 will deffinately melt or blow and check to insure the ground is perfectly connected (in the world of current vs. resistance the weakest point will give in first...