How do i tighten the steering tube? the front wheel can turn left/right while the handle bars are straight ahead.

pull the steering wheel and check the wear ring under the wheel that the brass contact plunger runs on
it is possible that for the straight ahead position the ring is worn away

there is a load on the lock pin in the steering column try turning the steering wheel a bit left or right to release the pin as you try turning the key.
Steering wheel locks never lock straight ahead as the idea is that if the car is being stolen it will turn a circle rather that move straight

I have seen this on many vehicles. It is entirely possible that when you last parked and shut it off you had the steering wheel turned to the left or right rather than centered straight ahead. The power steering was assisting with holding it in that position until you shut it off. At that time power assist stopped and the wheel is resting firmly against the theft lock mechanism. Grasp the steering wheel firmly and if your front wheels are pointed to the left then force the steering wheel to the left a bit more and turn the key will holding the wheel, if front wheels are to the pointing to the right then force the steering wheel to the right and turn the key. Try NOT to turn off the ignition with the wheels not pointed straight.

Ok this will amuse you but......
Take a broom handle and place it along saddle in line with top tube. Align stem and front wheel with this and tighten everything up.....plus this aligns your saddle.
True story. I was helping to put bike together for bro that owns shop. I left my laser at home and he says "broom alignment"....jeez it's brilliant. I have used it ever since as it keeps wheel stem top tube and saddle in perfect line.
Hope this helps
John

Check your tire pressure and increase to 35 PSI (front and rear). If you have over 20,000 miles on your bike your may want to replace your wheel bearings (front and rear). Short wheel bearing life is common on GL1200 models. You should also consider tightening your steering neck bearings. Loose neck bearings is a common problem on any motorcycles. Disassemble the upper triple clamp far enough to turn the steering head nut and tighten it just to the point of binding and loosen it just enough so the bar turns smoothly with out binding. Most mechanics are to lazy to make the adjustment during the 600 mile check up. If you notice bumpy or ratcheting when you turn the handle bar from lock to lock and a tendency for the handlebars to stop or gravitate to the straight ahead position then you need to replace the steering head bearings in the frame neck. One or all of the things listed above can or will contribute to the condition you describe. Consider a thorough inspection and repair of all the necessary issues before riding this season.

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
   
5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
7. Connect the drag link.

Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
   
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
   
4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
   
5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
8. Have the front end alignment checked.

There is no real easy way to do it....not like the older cars..

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
   CAUTION After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait for at least 10 minutes for the air bag module to deplete its stored energy.
   
   
2. 1. Remove the driver’s side air bag and steering wheel by performing the following procedure:
   2. Position the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
      
3. Remove the 4 steering wheel-to-air bag module bolts.
   
4. Carefully, lift the air bag module and disconnect the electrical connector.
   
   CAUTION Place the air bag module in a safe location with the front facing upward.
   
   
5. Remove the steering wheel-to-steering column nut.
   
   NOTE If may be necessary to mark the steering wheel to steering column alignment.
   
   
6. Using a steering wheel puller, press the steering wheel from the steering column.
   
7. Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
   
8. Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
   
1. Remove the instrument panel by performing the following procedure:
2. Remove both the rear and front consoles.
   
3. Remove the knee bolster assembly.
   
4. Remove the “T” bar section.
   
5. Remove the relay bracket.
   
6. Remove the turn signal assembly and the upper/lower steering column covers.
   
7. Remove the hood release handle lockscrew, the hood release handle and the cable assembly nut.
   
8. Remove the left side front pillar trim and the lower left side cover.
   
9. Remove the 2 left side of the “T” bar-to-chassis bolts.
   
10. At the left side of the instrument panel, remove the 3 instrument panel-to-chassis bolts.
    
11. Remove the ashtray.
    
12. Remove the center panel trim.
    
13. Remove the ventilation control panel.
    
14. At the center of the windshield next to the windshield, remove the cap and the mounting bolt.
    
15. " Remove the right side front pillar trim and the lower right side cover.
    
16. Remove the 2 right side of the “T” bar-to-chassis bolts.
    
17. At the right side of the instrument panel, remove the 3 instrument panel-to-chassis bolts.
    
18. Remove the steering column-to-instrument panel bolts and lower the steering column.
    
19. Disconnect the instrument panel electrical connectors.
    
20. Remove the instrument panel.
    
9. 1. Remove the blower/evaporator housing by performing the following procedure:
   2. Disconnect the air conditioning refrigerant lines from the evaporator core and discard the gaskets. Plug the openings to prevent contamination.
      
10. Disconnect the fresh air control cable from the blower/evaporator housing inlet duct.
    
11. Disconnect the 5 connectors from the bottom of the blower/evaporator housing.
    
12. Move the carpeting from the bulkhead to gain access to the hole cover plate.
    
13. Remove the 4 hole cover plate nuts and the plate.
    
14. Remove the 2 upper blower/evaporator housing bolts.
    
15. Remove the 2 lower blower/evaporator housing-to-bulkhead nuts.
    
16. Remove the blower/evaporator housing.
    
17. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core.
    
18. Remove the temperature control cable from the heater housing.
    
19. Remove the 2 lower heater housing nuts and the upper heater housing-to-bulkhead nut.
    
20. Remove the heater housing.
    

1. Disassemble the heater housing by performing the following procedure:
2. Remove the seal from the heater core tube connections.
   

• Remove the vent seal.
  
• Remove the 2 wiring harness-to-heater servo screws.
  
• Remove the 8 heater housing clips located on the servo side (left side).
  
• Remove the left side of the heater housing.
  
• Remove the 6 heater housing assembly clips.
  
• Remove the 4 heater core tube mounting bracket screws and the bracket.
  
• Remove the 8 remaining heater housing clips and disassemble the housings.
  
• Remove the heater core from the housing.
  

Exploded view of the heater core and heater housing assembly—Kia Sportage


THIS IS JUST TO REMOVE IT!

Fix it just like you would on a bicycle> stand in front of the bike facing the bars with the wheel straight forward and held tightly between your legs. Grab the bars and firmly twist them in the direction needed to line them back up. Re-check the alignment and repeat if needed. Tighten the triple clamps on the fork legs a bit and you are done.

Tighten the large nut that is at the top of the tube where the handlebar enters it.

Typically you would loosen the triple clamps that hold the fork tubes, trap the front wheel or have some on hold it and re align the wheel with the handle bars and re tighten. The challenge with a scooter is removing covers to gain access the triple clamp.

Hope this is of some help.
Ed