Rheem 50 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC 82V522 Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Jun 26, 2010

Also, the copper pipe that is supposed to carry cold water into tank is very hot, hard/if not impossible to tell cold pipe from hot water pipe. I was told my Rheem AC has an energy feture that release the hot air into the water heater, could it be my AC overheating the water heater??

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  • Anonymous Jun 28, 2010

    Any ideas on the following: The Compressor on my Rheem 10seer/4 ton AC was just replaced. Right after that was fixed hot water has been released from the cooper drain pipe which is connected to the temperature pressure release (TPR) valve on my Rheem electric 50 GAL water heater. A Plumber changed both thermostats on the water heater and two days later there is hot water continue to discharge/running out (sometimes dripping and sometimes steady flow during heat of day when AC is running)of the TPR. The plumber (same company that repaired AC is trying to tell me no connection between the new compressor being installed and the TPR releasing hot water, and it doesn't seem to be a coincidence, in fact both cooper pipes on water heater are very hot to the touch, shouldn't one be cold?). If they replace the TPR valve next and the hot water pressure continues will it not continue to release. Seems like these guys continue to guess?? HELP...

  • Anonymous Jun 28, 2010

    Thanks, plumber is going to replace the T&P Relief valve tomorrow, Keeping my fingers reluctantly crossed. No hot water runs from T&P drain pipe until mid-day when AC has been running most of day. Water seems to slow/then stop running when sun goes down. I hope I'm wrong but I think the AC HRU is pushing too much hot water into water heater, the water heater problem described only started after they replaced the outside AC compressor and chargd it. What do you think?

  • Anonymous Jul 03, 2010

    Sorry to all you so-called experts. I was correct. Upon disconnecting the AC Heat Recovery Unit HRU), the leaking from the T&P relief valve stopped. Obviously the HRU was defective causing too much hot water to enter the hot water heater.

  • Anonymous Jul 03, 2010

    Sorry to all you so-called experts. I was correct. Upon disconnecting the AC Heat Recovery Unit (HRU), the leaking from the T&P relief valve stopped. Obviosuly the HRU was defective causing too much hot water to enter the hot water heater.

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  • Posted on Jun 28, 2010
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That is normal, the heat just rises from the hot water, the pipe on the right should be cold and if you were to run hot water anywhere in the house it will immediately cool of the cold inlet pipe and you can feel it

  • Anonymous Jun 28, 2010

    I agree that it is probably unrelated, T&P valves do go bad and if this is a new occurance I would replace it, The cold inlet pipe is only cold when the hot water is being used, if not the heat travels back up the cold pipe several feet

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Related Questions:

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Does anyone know the dip tube part number for a Rheem Fury Gas 42VR50-40F water heater? Heater runs out of hot water far too quickly. Thanks!

certain water heaters had a tube that dissolved, you take 1/2 in. copper flare one end of it, drill a1/8 in. hole in pipe 4 in. below flare ,remove cold water nipple on tank install new copper tube, cut tube to 3 inches off bottom of tank depth , reconnect cold water supply you should be good.
0helpful
1answer

Water is leaking from the pipe on the top of the tank (Reliance 606 electric) where the hot water comes out and goes into the house. Likely causes?

If tank is rusted out, then that is caused by depleted anode rod, or tank that is not electrically grounded on hot side pipe.
If pipe nipple is rusted out, then that can be caused by improper connection between copper and galvanized pipes, and caused by non-grounded hot water pipes.

If tank is leaking, replace it.
If nipple is leaking, remove with pipe wrench, apply teflon tape or joint compound on threads, and install new nipple. Replace anode rod if possible. Correct copper-galvanized connections. Add ground wire between hot and cold pipes.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
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I am losing water pressure, but only on the hot side. Cold pressure is fine, as you add hot the pressure fades, the hotter the less pressure. This is at all points in the house. The water heater was...

You have a clog in the hot water line.
If problem is at one faucet, then remove aerator and clean, then disassemble lines underneath sink.

If problem is at every faucet, then that moves search close to water heater.
Look at hot water line that exits water heater and trace that line to first Tee.
Look at cold water line that enters water heater and trace that line to Tee.
Clog is located between those 2 Tees.

Buy pressure tester that connects to hose thread.
geno_3245_251.jpg
Connect pressure gauge to hot water heater drain valve.
Then conduct same test you did at faucet.
See if pressure drops at tank.

If pressure drops, then clog is on cold side of tank, and probably hot side too.
If pressure does not drop, then clog is on hot side of tank.

Suspect 1 is any place two different metals join. For example galvanized pipe and copper.
Suspect 2 is supply pipes that exit top of tank. Take apart and look inside pipes for corrosion and sediment lining pipe walls.
Suspect 3 is elbow. Disassemble pipes and look for sediment and flakes of rust.
Suspect 4 is all suspects above, each having sediment and corrosion.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
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I replaced a 15 year old Rheem 40 gallon electric water heater with the same - a Rheem heater. After I replaced the old one, I was surprised that there was hardly any sediment build-up at the bottom of the...

These are interior metals, similar like rock used in a sauna, to help keep water hot longer. Here is somethings to check out.

Hello, dave

I was trying to help you out here. Maybe this will help some? I was going backto some customers that asked questions in the recent past and even fartherback. It appeared that no one answeredsome of them, So, I thought I would take some of my personal time to see if Ican help. Even though this Informational site may not have your exact model orbrand, this site will help you a lot. Here is a site link about everything you want to know about hot waterheaters and possibly yours, from
repair to trouble shooting it. http://home.howstuffworks.com/water-heater.htm

Please if this helped you at all, if you can find the time and in your heart torate my help and some kind words written would be appreciated for my free help, I would appreciate it.

Here is also my direct link to my own pages of other areas of my expertise forother problems you might have in Automotive, Appliance, and Electronics. DropIn anytime for my help.

Thanks, Mike


http://beta.fixya.com/users/mc1bean
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I have a hotpoint hot water heater it's about 6 years old. When I turn the hot water on it runs very slowly the water pressure is very low and it's like this throughout the house how do I fix this problem...

You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store
1helpful
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I have been told that during a new installation you must install a ground wire from the hot water line to the cold water line??

The #6 bare copper jumper wire or ground wire between hot and cold pipes is to prevent stray household current from degrading metal parts of water heater and causing early failure of tank.
It's for your benefit and doesn't cost much, and may in fact be unnecessary .... except in cases where it is necessary which you wouldn't know until tank rusts out prematurely.
Here's some exciting additional reading:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#Ground-tank
0helpful
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Turned off the hot water to fix a leaking tap. now the tap has no hot or cold water and the hot water tank valve is leaking?

It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating.
New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.

Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.


0helpful
1answer

How does rhe hot and cold water hook up on a 71-40d which is which top and bottom

Tanks are marked with Hot and Cold.
1) If water connections are on top of tank, look for red marking or word HOT that shows where hot water pipe connects. Look for blue marking or word COLD that shows cold water connection.
2) If water connections are on side of tank, cold water connects to bottom one, and hot connects to top.

3) If hot and cold are reversed, the tank will not work.
Pipes on top of tank: cold water enters tank and is sent to bottom of tank in a long tube called the dip tube. This means the cold is on the bottom since hot water rises to the top. The hot water exits top of tank.
Pipes on side of tank: You want cold water to enter bottom, so hot water naturally rises to the top outlet.
0helpful
1answer

Hot water comes out cold side for few seconds and gets cold, no hot from hot side, only cold

Make sure that the water pipes for the cold water coming in and the hot water going out are connected to the correct positions on the water heater. If the connections get reversed, the water that is supposed to be hot will be drawn from the bottom of the tank and will not be as hot as it should be. The cold water input goes to the bottom of the tank. The hot water out comes from the top of the tank.
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