I start getting a headace as soon I wear them. Is this a common problem? and how can it be resolved

Dwd-L142KC has a direct drive motor. A very common fault on this machine is that the drum shaft seal fails, letting water into the bearings which then starts to rust and then develope severe play between the drum and the tub. As the stator is mounted onto the tub and the rotor is mounted onto the drum shaft the rotor can then, due to the worn bearing, move too far away from the stator. Because the sensor that detects the actual speed of the motor is mounted onto the stator assembly, the control PCB then no longer gets the feedback signal from the sensor hence the motor not running correct. You'll most probably see the motor only moving in short bursts, a the missing feedback prevents it from accelerating further. A bearing and seal repair will in this case resolve this problem. It did on my machine. If the shaft is heavily worn below the shaft seal, this will need sorted in order to prevent the new seal from getting damaged or wearing out to soon

This could be a few things, depending upon the nature of the "squeak".

1. It could be a simple case of brake pads rubbing slightly on the rotor, a common issue that occasionally results in squeaks.
2. It could be that the wear indicator on the brake pad is rubbing the rotor, an indication that brake pads need replacement soon.
3. Least likely is a wheel bearing that is showing signs of wearing out. This will get worse over time if it is the cause.

You have to take the whole dash out to get to it.. not worth the headace.. take it to a pro..

Dwd-L142KC has a direct drive motor. A very common fault on this machine is that the drum shaft seal fails, letting water into the bearings which then starts to rust and then develope severe play between the drum and the tub. As the stator is mounted onto the tub and the rotor is mounted onto the drum shaft the rotor can then, due to the worn bearing, move too far away from the stator. Because the sensor that detects the actual speed of the motor is mounted onto the stator assembly, the control PCB then no longer gets the feedback signal from the sensor hence the motor not running correct. You'll most probably see the motor only moving in short bursts, a the missing feedback prevents it from accelerating further. A bearing and seal repair will in this case resolve this problem. It did on my machine. If the shaft is heavily worn below the shaft seal, this will need sorted in order to prevent the new seal from getting damaged or wearing out to soon.

This sounds like there is a dead spot in your starter. The easiest way to resolve this issue is to replace your starter. Many times, if you take a lot of short-distance trips over the life of your car, the wiring inside the starter itself will wear (short trips means starting it more often, causing a lot of wear over time). Then the inner wiring of the starter wears too much, it forms a "dead spot" -- when the starter is stopped at a very specific spot i will not form the magnetic force needed to torn the starter motor. This is a common issue which can be dealt with for a time if you have to save the money to replace the starter. Tapping the starter, or arcing it with a screwdriver makes the inner workings of the starter jump a little, allowing it to move out of the dead spot and kick over as normal, but it is only a temporary fix. Unless you refurbish electronics for a living, it is very unlikely that you will be able to repair the starter on your own, and such a repair takes some time, so you are better off to replace it than try to repair the starter itself.
As long as the starter does not happen to stop in the dead spot, it will work as normal ... but in time the dead spot will spread, causing the issue to worsen. You can keep forcing it to turn with the two tricks you used until you have had the opportunity to earn the money to replace the starter (or until you have a day off to get the repairs done) .. but over time this can cause more damage to other parts of the car, so I recommend replacing the starter as soon as you can.

It sounds like the coils on your TCC (Torque Converter Lock-up) are starting to wear out. The TCC solenoid is a common problem with the GM Transmissions. They normally start to show signs of wear around 75,000 miles but I have seen them go bad as soon as 32,000 in high temperature areas.

One of the best things you can do with your Transmission is to add an External Transmission cooler. This will extend the life of your transmission by YEARS,,,

At issue is wear. If the seals leak, there is typically bushing wear that allows the shaft to have excessive side play. You could change the seals, but it will start leaking again, soon. Get a rebuilt box and you will be much happier, longer.

Do a system restore to a previous date when the Laptop was working fine.START--ALL PROGRAMS--ACCESSORIES--SYSTEM TOOLS--SYSTEM RESTORE. or Install your video and touchpad drivers again.

if the screen is big, try to change the screen resolution, or install the video driver from the manufacturer drivers disk that you would have,,,

refer to help and support in your computer for guidance on how to reduce the screen resolution,,,

click on start >>>> help and support, then on the search box type how to change the screen resolution
2. how to install the video driver
you will have step by step instructions, and you could get it resolved,

follow those steps clearly

no fix other than replacing the cook top with a new one