Bike shut down on me...zero electrical....main fuse was blown...voltage regulator was bad(swelled and cracked)...put a new one onfuse no longer blew started bike it ran for about 10 secs then there was no spark at the plugs...bike turns over and lights work just no spark.....tested coils with ohm meter and they test good..........what next???
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Take the bulbs out. put a voltmeter across the termals (Which go to the bulb)
Start your bike & look at the voltage going to the bulb.
Rev your engine & see if the voltage rises.
If it goes above 14V then there is something wrong in the charging curcuit. (Regulator)
or if one of the diodes in the recifier has gone short curcuit then
you could be getting AC into the battery (Very Bad)
Was there a bad smell as well? I would bet it's your regulator. Sounds like its frying everything. I believe if you check it (or have it checked) it's gone bad. Kinda on the pricy side, around $200 (+/- 50), but easily a "do it yourself" repair. I would recommend replacing the battery at they same time as its been damaged if the regulator was bad. You see, by what you describe as the symptoms, first needed to "roll-start", then (in my opinion due to the bad regulator) the headlight blew out and the engine cut out (Again, I'll also bet you that once you get the bike going again you'll find other bulbs blew as well such as your turn signals). This fits the model for the procession of symptoms as the regulator starts to fail. Specifically, it's job is the "regulate" the amount of amps (electricity) being sent to charge the battery and, very generally speaking, to the whole electrical system. As the regulator fails it starts to send too much electrical current to the battery/system. Usually the battery if FRIED in the process which is why my first question was about a swell (like rotting garbage). I'm sorry to say I learned all about this as I had exactly the same experience as you except I was a few hundred mile from home at the time. Hope this helps you
Bad voltage regulator. Mine went bad then started to 'over charge' the battery. I put a voltage meter on it while the bike was at idle. It read as high as 16.1v. After I changed the voltage regulator it idles at 14.1v.
I replaced the battery due to it not being able to hold a charge. After I put in the new battery the tach shot up to 7k (while riding) then down to zero. As soon as I got home I put the volt meter on the battery and found out that the battery was being over charged. The voltage regulator took care of the issue. I hope this helps.
Usually a bad regulator will only cause problems with charging... Sounds like you've got a short somewhere in the wiring...I'd start by checking the ignition switch wiring and the connections going into the fuse box.
the regulator only keeps the voltage regulated to about 13v charge for the battery no matter what speed you ride..if the regulator did not work correctly you might start to burn out light bulbs. So when you put in the new regulator make sure your battery is at least at 12.3v minimum if not you will have to push start it and ride it for about 15 minutes on an open highway to charge the battery back up to at least 12.6v-12.7v...13v is perfect. (if none of your other fuses blew then all other electrics should work), so i would double check all of your fuses just to make sure.
Initially, pls try recharging the battery again. Remove the connector to the voltage regulator. Start/run the bike. If it lasts more than "3-5 minutes" then you have just confirmed a defective regulator. The voltage regulator would look something like below image. This page may give you additional insight.
Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
Fuse 2 is actually the fuse from the regulator to the battery (see schematic below) - so if it's blown then you are not charging the battery.
Put the correct fuse in - if it blows again, you may have a shorted regulator.
Unplug both connections to the regulator:
With your test meter set to 'ohms' check in turn between each of the three yellow wires in the 3-pin connector to both the red & blacks in the 4 pin connector (the two reds are already connected to each other, as are the two blacks). Also check between the reds & the blacks. None of these should readings be 'short' (zero ohms).
Inspect the wiring at the three-pin connector - if the bike's harness looks charred/burned that is a sign the regulator has shorted. There is possibility it could have taken the stator with it.
Incidentally, the cable that plugs into the three pin connector - that should be a replacement auxiliarry harness: the original was deemed too small gauge for the job & was replaced with the auxiliary one as a recall. You should find that cable is stand-alone from the main bike harness and you can follow it back to the stator output connection. At both ends you should find the connectors of the original harness that is 'laced' into the complete harness. If you do not find that auxiliary harness, you need to get it. You should be able to get it at no charge from Triumph if the records on your VIN show it was never supplied.
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