Smoked small parts on the power circuit after changing the pop up light on the sl 1200mk2
After replacing the light and powering the unit up it smoked a little and wouldnt come back on...I used the volt meter to check all circuits and all are goot but there are two small black parts in the power section of the board in the lower left part of the bord under the motor section...I am looking for some answers to where i can get parts of a good place to look to find trash units to get the parts off..Any help is appreciated..Thanks
Re: Smoked small parts on the power circuit after...
The transformer is not fried (at least not likely)
PROTECTION IC'S 2 - 2SD637 (These are fried...$2 each...:)
IF NO POWER CHECK THESE are NORMAL
TRANSISTOR NPN 2 UNITS MAIN SOURCE OF NO POWER
Q2 Q3 (EBC label on the board)
I did this myself. EXACTLY the same thing. Two protection IC's (I prefer fuses -.-). Order from Syracuse semiconductors. 5count for $10 and fast free shipping. You can get singles for $2 on ebay if you only want five, but then you have to wait on shipping from China. Good thing I went with 5, because I ruined the first pair running the iron to hot. LOL but it works now.
This will help diagnose other problems. Check it out. http://www.deckdoctor.com.au/TECHNIC%20SL1200%20PCB.pdf
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Re: Smoked small parts on the power circuit after...
More than likely you fried your transformer. Also take a look at the fuses - some units have them, some don't - so first check to make sure they are not blown.
FYI, this unit has just enough circuit protection, and many times, when the Pop-up light or other repairs are done to the unit, and not done properly, issues such as these will occur. Especially with the pop-up light. Disconnect the pop-up light connection on the main board, then try powering up your unit. If it doesn't work, then your transformer is definitely fried and will need to be replace. You can order a replacement transformer HERE
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Go to www.bbbind.com for a wiring diagram of the brake light circuit , get a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an trace out the circuit . You know the right side works so the brake light switch is good . Take your volt meter an check to see which part of the circuit is bad . At the brake light bulb socket test for voltage on the power side , if battery voltage is there,then check ground side . I forgot you need to have some one press on the brake pedal while testing . You could have a bad ground or an open on the power side of the circuit , you need to find the wiring harness that goes to the back of the car , check connectors ,wiring etc... There is more to electrical trouble shooting then just replacing parts . Watch this video on voltage drop testing . Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia
Make sure you use quality batteries. 9V lithium, sometimes called max life or ultralife may be just the ticket as they will likely last for years. Also be sure your smokes were wired correctly. If the beeping occurs only at might, perhaps they were improperly wired through a light switch, meaning that they may not be getting power all of the time. If you don't know how to check this yourself using a volt meter or tick meter, have an electrician check to be sure there are no wiring issues...good luck!
With AC power off.
Use a meter (on Ohms scale) to check internal fuse for blown (open) fuse.
If you feel qualified & safe with AC Power On.
Check input to internal power supply on AC Scale (Caution when AC is on) for volts in.
Use meter on internal Power Supply for "probably" DC volts leaving internal Power Supply electronics to power the rest of the electronic circuits.
Switch mode power supplies can break down. They stop doing their high frequency switching so they don't convert AC to DC.
If this P/Sup is a separate box or circuit board, inside the unit, then it can have a part number & be replaced.
you cant do much about this.. the only thing you can do is check if the power is going to the magnetron unit or not.
but i wouldnt suggest you to experiment with the unit as it can cause short circuits.
you should rather go find a cheap electrician
use a meter to check the sockets for voltage either 110acv or, 12v dcv
if dcv it's is your batteries or inverter not supplying power check with a meter set on dc volts; if ac check your circuit breakers with a meter set for ac volts if these are fine then replace switches
The fuse should have blown quickly enough to prevent the battery from overheating. The accessory fuse powers quite a few things. Mostly it powers things like turn signals, speedometer, running lights and maybe a few other things. You need a schematic to tell what it powers. Do NOT put a higher rated fuse in the circuit or you'll start burning wires instead of blowing fuses. Evidently you've got a short somewhere or an overvoltage problem. To check for the latter case, you need a DVOM and a fully charged battery in your bike. Put the meter's function selector switch in the DC VOLTS, 25 volt or greater range. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Within a minute or so you should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts on your meter. If you read greater than 15 volts, I'd replace the regulator as it's probably overcharging your battery. If the fuse continues to blow, you'll have to trace the wires and look for a short circuit somewhere.
OK you need a volt meter to check the voltage output of your power pack as two things cause this now enough power out the pack to run your unit or the unit has a short both problems will unlight the light so you need to know if the power supply is working right first as it should say like 120 volts AC in and 12 volts DC 1000 ma out so you will need to mesure this with a volt meter. this is a common problem loading the load of the curcuit as in your TV is mor the the power pack is giving out thus shorting out the power pack of any voltage present, as the little LED light your seeing only takes 5 volts at very ittle current to light and dose not repersent the total voltage output of the power pack itself
Hi .... Sounds like regulator/rectifier is defective. Fully charge battery and try starting again, place multi-meter across battery and it should show 12.8-14 volts. If it doesn't replace reg/rec unit.
Does the unit light up...standby light...anything?? If the unit is completely dead then you have a bad stand-by power circuit...98% of the time the stand-by transformer is bad. It is a tiny transformer usually near the back of the unit and MOST of the time right where the ac line goes through the back panel. To test this part you need an volt-ohm-meter or digital multi-meter. The input side of this transformer (side where ac goes into) must have continuity (current will pass through it). It most likely will read "open" on the meter. This part is available from tritronicsinc.com. Good luck!