Kenmore top loading washer model 110-9259220 90 series has a very slow leak

Press 2 metal tabs. About 6" from the sides on the front of washer. Plastic ring on top has tabs that need to be disengaged to disconnect the ring. Once ring has been removed the area between the plastic tub & metal tub is accessible. Check for small articles of clothing, like socks or underwear. Inner tub can be removed by: snap up plastic cap (small slot for tool to slip in and pop up). Remove 7/16 nut and remove agitator (may require to be rocked back & forth, sits on a splined shaft). Remove 5 small phillips screws, being careful not to drop any, and pull inner metal tub up (may require it being shimmied back and forth). Removing this tub will give full access to any debris or articles of clothing that may be under it. Please keep in mind that if you're challenged in reassembly

Hello there:
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

First, see the Sears parts diagrams / breakdowns for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11026832690/0582/0153200?pathTaken=

Next, see the following illustrated description of how to tear down the washer and remove the agitator(s) and tub.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=34f87d06c7e28f58d4898529d732dedb

And see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these machines.https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It's unlikely that a sock made it thru the inner basket but, I'd check the hoses to and from the pump and the inside of the pump to check for any blockage before pulling the agitator(s) and basket.

NOTE: If you have to remove the inner tub, you'll have to remove the drive block.

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

When replacing the drive block, basket, make sure that the tabs align on the block.

you have bad tub seals. is there stains on the walls inside the washer and the water is leaking in the middle bottom of the tub?if the washer is old get a new washer,did one last week but the washer was in good condition it was close to 300 bucks.you have to pull the agitator,remove the top ring,with a spanning tool you need to remove the center parts and pull the inner and outer tubs and the three nuts and bolts holding the outside tub on and replace the two pieces in the middle it's a bearing and a seal kit,but you need the tools to do it,like i said if the washer is old replace it or call someone in to do the job for you

See the Sears parts site for washer 82372110.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.82372110

The following may also help.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=146

This is a not a job for the back yard mechanic. There are many things that need to be done carefully. There are 3 letters missing from your model number also... However the procedure is pretty much the same for all models.

NOTE you will need a special tool to remove the stem seal. Unless you have the special tool in hand don't even bother starting the job. Tell any appliance part center you need the tool for removing an Old style Maytag tub nut and stem seal.

1. Remove the front panel
2. Remove the cabinet top / lid by removing the 2 screws in the top front corner of the cabinet. and rotate the top up 90 deg. Be careful of the lid that will swing freely.
3. Disconnect the pump inlet hose from the bottom of the tub.
4. Disconnect the water injector hose from the tub cover.
5. Remove the tub cover
6. Locate the only hex head screw in the side of the agitator and remove it.
7. Lift out the agitator
8. Using the special tool you should have in hand by now.... Remove the wash tub nut and stainless steel washer under the tub nut.
9. NOTE the distance of the inner tub from the outer tub and then lift out the wash tub
10. Next is the stem seal. You first have to remove the allen head lock screw in one of the 4 faces of the tub nut. Then again using that same special tool remove the upper part of stem seal. Be careful when lifting it as you can actually damage the grease seal in the very top of the tub seal upper portion. Once the metal upper part of the tub stem seal assy is removed... there another NOTE of caution...
11. The actual tub seal has a carbon face on the top of it and if you crack the carbon seal it your machine will leak all of the time there is water in the unit.
grab the tub seal as the very base of the seal and gently rotate and lift it off the inner tub sealing surface.
12. Install the new stem seal.... by again gripping it on the bottom only and gently rotate and push it down into place until it seats level.

Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly but make sure you INSTALL the allen lock screw into the stem seal nut face. If you don't the stem seal will come loose and your unit will leak again. Final note is during re-assembly make sure the wash tub is centered.... rotate the tub once you tighten the tub nut and make sure it is not to elliptical if you don't get it right... the machine will gyrate with use in the spin cycle.

If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

there is a special nut called a spanner nut. it is about 1 1/2 inches and needs special tool to remove it to get the inner tub out of the unit. you might be able to remove it with a pipe wrench and then you can get access to the outer tub.
i would recommend just using a washer cleaner and trying that first.
these chemical cleaners are designed to remove residues and are much easier then taking the unit apart.

That would be your drain pump and/or drain hoses. You will need to access the inside of the washer by removing the outside casing to get a good view. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397092-replacing_water_pump

The link explains how to replace the pump. Although you may not have a bad pump, it gives all the steps necessary to disassemble the washer to get to it. I would recommend you fill the tub about a third of the way then shut the washer off. This will fill the tub enough to determine where the leak may be coming from. Check both drain hoses for cracks or splits and make sure the clamps are tight. If the pump is leaking, it is NOT repairable. These are sealed units and will require replacing if damaged. You can purchase a new pump (if needed) at repairclinic.com. Just type in your complete model number and the pump should be listed as item number 3296 (part number 3363394).

This a simple job that requires not special tools to accomplish. I hope you find this information helpful.

its how do i put it in words its pressed in need a special tool to get it out