My problem is the handle seems cracked and water leaks.

if this is installed in a small rv , wow I know all about the problem with these , seems this type of pump allows one to draw water from a storage tank on board and the user provides the "power" via moving the handle up/down to draw up the water , but then when in the park you can connect fresh park water to faucet and using the same handle in opposite direction pressurized water flows out of it , first thing , its in a rv !! if inside air temp is not maintained 24/7 365 between 35F and 210F it plastic its gonna crack (mine did) and I don't know about you but my rv is outta my mind in the off season so no temp is being maintained inside it , if this is what happened then just replace it , no glue will hold up to its use ! second parks water pressures vary so carry your own water pressure regulator and use it between park and your rv ! these things only handle about 40 psi and then they crack open , and last but not least invest in some food grade rv antifreeze this is great stuff to "put up" the rv for the off season run it thru everything that gets water into it saves you tons on replacing things in the spring time

YOU MAY HAVE CROSS THREADED WHEN PUTTING IT BACK ON. YOU MAY HAVE PINCHED AN O RING WHEN PUTTING BACK ON THE O RING MAY HAVE A VERY SMALL SLIT PREVENTING IT FROM SEALING. I HAVE A PURR WATER FILTER ON MY FAUCET & IT LEAKS JUST A BIT BUT THINK IT'S FROM OLD AGE HAVE HAD IT FOR 5 YEARS & THERE IS A VERY SMALL CRACK IN IT. IF YOUR'S IS NOT NEW YOU MAY HAVE THE SAME THING THERE MAY BE A SMALL CRACK IN THE HOUSEING SOME PLACE.

Probably water reservoir is leaking. It or tubing going to it probably is cracked.

Hello Frank,
The line that runs from under the freezer door and connects to the dispenser is cracked or the connector is cracked. By removing the lower hinge cover ya should be able to see where the line connects to the door and see if it seems to be cracked and leaking their,if that connector is good then the line inside of the door is leaking..in some cases depending on brand the line is easily replacable without having to dis-assamble the entire door

GENE

Drain Pump is the most likely thing. Although could be leaking hose, or cracked tub, or leaking tub seal

the shower valve is leaking and filling the shower spout

The most likely issue, which seems to occur alot with karcher, is a cracked water pump. What happens is that as you release the trigger on the handle, the rise in pressure should cut off the motor, but as it also cuts off the water flow at the wand end and the motor spins a few more revs until it stops, then there is a huge pressure glitch which blows apart the weak plastic pumps that they use. Since the plastic cracks it is very difficult to repair and the only option is to go and buy another. BUT...this time tape up the trigger on the handle so it is always on and then it won't blow itself up. Just use the unit on/off switch to turn the motor on and off.

Check to see if you have a crack in the water line running to the ice maker. The plastic line is prone to crack. Easy way to see if water is from ice maker is to shut off water to it (usually under sink).

There is no radiator cap, the Lanos has what is called a "sealed cooling system", popular on newer model European cars and most Asian models, even some of the latest US made cars. You can squeeze and release the upper radiator hose repeatedly to "pump" some of the air out/water in.

The engine has to be leaking water somewhere. It could be a small leak that only leaks under pressure (when the car is hot) and the water is evaporating as fast as it leaks out. This kind of leak can be very hard to find! I had this problem on my daughter's 2001 Lanos until today, when I found the leak. A heater hose burst today while she was getting gas, luckily the car was stopped! It had been using about a tank full of water every month (about one quart or liter), but could find no leak. I suspected a leaking head gasket or cracked (which could be your problem), and was preparing to take the head off when she was on Christmas break from college. I'm glad that hose burts!

A leaking head gasket or cracked head is hard to detect. Most of the time there will only be a small leak when the engine is hot, and the small amount of water pulled into a cylinder is vaporised as the engine runs. There will be no water in the oil unless there is a large leak. Pull the oil dip stick and look under the oil fill cap. If there is a tan looking substance on either one there is water in the oil and you definitely have a cracked head or leaking head gasket. If it's just the gasket you're lucky -- the gasket will usually only leak if the engine has been run very hot (boiling over and then run a bit), and then the head will either crack or warp. A warped head can be repaired, but must be taken to a machine shop for repair. A machine shop can also check a head for cracks, as the cracks are usually too small to see, and usually only open and leak when the head is hot (normal engine operating temperature).

May have a problem with the seal at the bottom of the tank, the valve and seal sometimes go back and need to be replaced(#43513026).