Broke seals under cap, air bleeds continuously.

That is the valve seal. You can try and push it back down over the lip on the head. Most likely it is broke and will continue to pop up. They can be replaced with out removing the head.

A gasket is a little chance and a cilinder seal that fitts not tight enough on the cilindertop and a damged exhaust seal or worn o-ring steel wool cleaning inside top cap remove spring and valve from out the top make it tight also look down inside the cilinder how is the bumper on the bottom of the cilinder .?

USE silicon grease on the cleaned parts in the top o-rings and if the problem is over then use a pneumolube . to protect if neccesary.

If memory serves me right I believe that you need to bring #1 piston to top dead center before you are able to remove the distributor.

GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

Put #3 cylinder in firing position then put air pressure in that cylinder and remove the oil cap. If air comes out throttle body the intake valve is leaking. If air comes out the tail pipe the exhaust valve is leaking. If air comes out where the oil cap came off the piston is leaking.

Your going into summer so you can get away with doing something in a pinch. Locate the upper radiator hose and follow it back to the motor. disconnect the upper hose from the motor then remove the cap it was attached to by removing the 2 to 3 bolts that where holding it in place. When you lift that cap up you'll see the thermostat, remove it and toss it, clean the old seal off the motor and the cap and put a good bead of Form-A-Gasket on the cap then replace it and tighten the bolts down. a Thermostat is going to cost between $12 and $20 and it should come with a seal if you want to go that route. A tube of Form-A-Gasket will cost about $4. I do recommend you get the thermostat and put it in but you can get away with running without it in the summer. It's a pretty easy repair. That cap may have a bleed valve on it to burp the air out of the system. If it does you'll want to get everything hooked back up, fill up the radiator and warm the motor up and while the motor is running loosen that a little to let the air out of the system, once water comes out without air bubbles tighten back up. Be careful not to touch any of the hoses of motor while it is running since you could be burned.

Most common coolant leak is from the thermostat housing seal. Replace seal or housing and bleed properly.
Loosen plastic bleed screw on pipe above fan belt. Fill coolant via pressure cap ( right had side of engine....not expansion bottle) tighten once coolant free of air is seen. Run engine, loosen other plastic bleed screw on heater hose ( towards bulkhead ) and retighten once coolant runs free of air. Top up via cap again, run engine at 2500 rpm for 3 minutes with heater on ...should be very warm now. Once cool, check level and top up as required.

Yes it sounds like an air pocket, Remove the radiator cap make sure radiator is full and over flow jug is to the full cold line, start the engine holding the rpm at 2,000 wait for the temp. to come up to normal operating temp. let it idle and top off coolant, be careful of puking air bubbles coming out of the radiator.Replace cap and test drive aprox. 5 miles watching the temp gauge.

There is a few things that could course your car to be over heating

• Air In Cooling System
• Coolant Leak
• Water Pump Failure
• Head Gasket Failure

These are some of the common problems as your car is reasonable new i would't think the head gasket has gone it is more then likely what you say that the water pump is broke probably the impaler has broken off. To bleed the system you need to get it up to running temperature and remove the bleed screws in the cooling system starting from the highest one working down then back up. If you find it is hard to bleed and no coolant is being pushed out it is more then likely that the water pump has gone. To test if the head gasket has gone take off the oil cap and look for a mayo type gunk around it if there is then this means that water is getting into the oil system meaning the head gasket has gone another test is to use a spacial liquid that test for exhaust gases in the coolant system.

Tom

have you flushed out the radiator ? get some radiator flush and flush it out. There could be a blockage in the radiator.