Mitsubishi WS-55819 55" Rear Projection Television Logo
Posted on Apr 13, 2008
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Picture problems and tech question

I am having the familiar bowing effect in my Mitsubishi WS-55819 rear-projection TV. This problem is intermittent and occurs about 40% of the time irrespective of TV movement. In addition, I am also getting multiple colored horizontal lines pulsating across the screen in an erratic type manner, much like veins in a lightning bolt.

1) I have read in this forum that replacing the STK392-570 ICs should fix the convergence problems. I know I also need to either replace or test the resistors. Will this fix the horizontal lines problem I am having as well?
2) When I replace these ICs and test the resistors, is there any danger of high voltage coming across when I remove the ICs and/or resistors? I see no mention of this in other posts. If so, do I need to bleed any caps or tubes?
3) I have read that buying low-quality ICs is a bad idea because of the possibility of a short life. Does anyone have a link to a web-site that sells known reliable ICs for this TV?

Thanks for your suggestions

2 Answers

A

Anonymous

Thanks for the useful info. I wlll watch this thread for useful links for the ic's. Another post mentioned only one ic for this model. Most mention two. Does anyone know for sure before I open this baby up?

Karl Whisenand

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  • Posted on Apr 13, 2008
Karl Whisenand
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You already know more that 90% of the "techs" by being informed.
just allow the tv to set unplugged for 24 hrs and all should bleed fine.
to be certain just bleed the big caps , the tubes will not bleed back into the circuit.
just use plenty of flux and wick to remove the solder as fast as you can.
and the issue with ic is that they are all from the same die just that the center ones are mil grade which you will not likely find a source for and the outer are commercial grade which is all you can buy.
being your purchasing a part out of production good luck even finding it. if you have and intermittent issue it is likely a heat and capacitance leakage issue , finding it will be hard,
an air gun and remote temp might just do the issue fastest.
try running with the back off and a fan aimed at the circuits, if it runs longer or forever then it should be easier to locate.

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