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Refrigerators like the Hotpoint Model HSS25GFP have a air damper that controls fresh food sections temperature. Your refrigerator also has a diagnostics feature and can at times locate the problem causing the fresh food section to cool too much. Either your auto damper has frost blocking it open or the=> WR55X10025 Thermister is defective. Try using a hair drier to force warm air into the damper to see if the damper will close better by melting any ice that may have the damper stuck open.Here is the=> WR09X10050 Damper Thermister Assembly Instructions on how to change this part can also be found on the same page HERE If you have any questions please ask, Thanks Sea Breeze WR09X10050 Damper Thermister AssemblyBelow ThanksSea Breeze
Sarct, the question is, was the freezer side ok, if it was, I would suspect the damper not opening. If the freezer side was warm too, then I would suspect the evaporator thermistor not sending the signal to the board to terminate the defrost. Have the tech first check the continuity at connector J3. He should have 400ohms at J3-1 to J3-2 and the same at J3-3 to j3-4. If he doesn't get those readings have him check at the damper motor itself. If he doesn't have it there, replace the damper motor. If the damper motor passes all the checks then it's on to the evaporator thermistor. Have him check the resistance. At 5 degrees it should ohm at approx 36K ohms. The evap thermostat is redundant to the defrost operation. It's there as a back up in the event the evap thermistor fails to terminate the defrost. It's normally closed and will open at 140 degrees.
Had similar problem, freezer was working fine, but fridge was warm, (68 degrees) It wasnt my damper, the mother board was fried, and so was the inverter board that told the compressor what to do, after having the inverter and two mother boards replaced.......I threw it out, biggest piece of ****, only three years old, and Sears would not stand behind it, even though I used their repairmen. I will never buy another GE product, or enter a Sears store again
Sounds like the damper or damper belt may be at fault. The cold air
enters the refer compartment through the damper in the back. If that
damper is not controled to close/open as needed it is likely stuck
fully open all the time. That will let cold air in no matter what the
t-stat says. See if you can view with a mirror and see if the damper
"blinds" are fully open. If the t-stat is turned all the way down the
dampers should close, as less cold air is needed. Then, as the t-stat
is turned up, the dampers open to let in cold air from the freezer
compartment. Let us know what you find and we can go from there.
rip, couple of checks to do: On the main board, connector J3. On the harness you should have 400 ohms on J3-1 (yellow) to J3-2 (red/black) and 400 ohms on J3-3 (white/brown) to J3-4 (blue yellow. Same values should be at the damper motor. If you don't have those values, damper motor defective. One other check, you have 10 seconds to do this on power up, so get some help. Plug in the refer. Check for 6 VDC. DC voltage now from pins J3-1 to J3-4. If you don't have this it's the board. If you do have this and the dampers not working, replace the damper. Catriver.