I have a Maytag top load washer model number FAV6800AWW that stopps spinning at 7 minutes. I have used the site before and I am aware of the clutch issue and I have cleaned and lubed it and it appears to be working fine. Is there another issue going on or the clutch still be bad?
When you did your Clutch Maintenance how much rust was present on the One-Way Roller Clutches, the Spinner Shaft Coupler did you series use upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring?
How long ago was the Clutch maintenance performed
Any error codes with the ""stopps spinning at 7 minutes""?
What is the Series number of your FAV6800A?
Did you ues this Clutch Fix post to clean up and check that the One-Way Roller clutches are locking up solid in the CCW/Spin direction for both the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way Roller Clutches if you series machine uses the Upper Bearing Ring?
If so then I would take that same wash load and run Quick Spin Test page 14 of the Service Manual. You may have to center the wash basket load (balance) before you start the test.
Will the machine step thru the all the RPM rages from 90 RPM to 85. which = 850RPM.
If not try the same test with out the load.
Let's rule Outer Tub Bearing drag........Rich
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Hello brucebell6,
Your series number is the 1st two digits of your machine Serial Number found here;
If you cleaned up One-Way Roller Clutches you may still have issues. The rust is from a possible slight Tub Seal leak. I’m now concerned about the Spin Only run and you timed out with an empty wash basket.
Before I would have you buy a replacement Clutch Pulley I would want to determine the health of the Outer Tub bearings.
Do me a favor open up the lid of your washer and spin the wash basket as fast as you can in the CCW direction the spin direction. Will the wash basket coast down after several revolutions to a gentle stop?
Just trying to get feel for Outer Tub bearing drag. Also give it the pinky finger test.
Can you rotate the wash basket with just you pinky finger CCW and tell how much resistance it takes? Sorry for the non scientific way of testing for Outer Tub Bearing drag. Keep in mid I’m an owner like you turning Lemons into Lemonade……Rich
"" I did another regular size load when I just got home and it stopped at 7 minutes and when I restarted it ran to the end.""
Did the machine error out with an unbalance code dC or uC or any error code? If not I feel this could be related to Outer Tub bearing drag. I say this because of your observation;
"" I had the front off the machine and I could watch it go through the different rpm changes and the tub appeared to be off balance a little even hen empty and it did seem to drag at certain rpm changes""
Your in Spin Cycle so the Clutch One Way Rollers cklutches bearing don't come into play Only the Outer Tub bearings. I would go into Service Mode and goto page 17 of the Service Manual and see if Diag Code Block 10 and 16 recorded an error.
Wirte down all the DIAG code blocks that indicate a recorded error then clear the list. Run the wash load again if you fail to complete the Spin Cycle see if Diag code block 16 or 10 indicates an error.
If Diag code block 16 indicates an error I would suspect Outer tub Bearing drag possibly causing this issue.
Please take a look at this post; http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/....
To me it sounds similar to your failure. i worked via e-mail with this forum member many e-mails
the fix required a Tub seal replacement, Clutch replacement and Outer Tub bearing replacement.......Rich
Hey Bruce,
This is a long post this BS board dosent allow for long winded trouleshooting comments as I do.
Part A
If you read the appliance blog post that owner was not taking any errors on the LED display to indicate his issue I did not have him go into the Diag code blocks as I did with you my mistake.
Can you run the Quick Spin test a number of times with a wet wash load and see if you can produce the Diag Code block 16 and 10? I don’t feel this is a Control Board, Motor Controller, Motor or TDS sensor issue with what I’ve seen so far.
You got DIAG code blocks 10 = Unbalance or cabinet hit detected during final spin, which prevented the spinner from exceeding 500 rpm.
You got DIAG code blocks 16 = High speed not achieved due to torque. Speed less than 400 rpm during a main wash cycle.
We may need to look at your Pressure Switch down the road you got multiple Diag Code Block 8 hits = Water level sensor fault. Higher water levels were sensed while the lower water levels were not.
If that High Level Pressure switch got stuck and did not signal for High Level satisfied the washer would over fill until someone closed the water source valves…. Not a good thing.
From your comments;
””also ran the spin cycle with no clothes and the timer ran down to 9 minutes then reset itself to twelve minutes then stoped at 7 minutes.””
“”I had the front off the machine and I could watch it go through the different rpm changes and the tub appeared to be off balance a little even hen empty and it did seem to drag at certain rpm changes that caused it to reset the timer and stop.””
Your problem develops in spin cycle and I still feel the issue is Bearing Drag causing increased rotational resistance. I’m not 100% there with the Outer Tub Bearing drag scenario. I wish I could get you closer to the fail point, troubleshooting as a owner form a distance is challenging for me and I’m no expert.
We haven’t had a repair person chime yet…. Repair Techs any thoughts on this issue?
So I will stick with my WAG for now which is increased Outer Tub bearing drag that I feel caused the Code block 16 & 10 errors. How bad were the rust deposits on your Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches bearing assembly the white plate with the bearing pressed in? I’m trying to get a feel for a possible slight Tub Seal leak.
Take a look at this post regarding the Outer Tub bearing replacement of a Series 15 FAV6800A. Maytag in its infinite wisdom made a change to the One-Way Roller Clutches bearing in the FAV6800A/FAV9800A machine model. They dropped the Upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing ring shifted to an integrated Outer Tub Bearing with a Upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing in the Lower Outer Tub bearing.
Part B
Comment from his post “”OK, So I'm understanding this machine just a little bit more than I wanted to. I tore it down last night and pulled the bearings. The Upper bearing is a 6207-2RS. The tub seal was bad and had allowed a little bit of water in damaging the upper. The LOWER bearing is a 0207-2RS, and it is actually 2 bearings in one. It has a single inner race, but two seperate outer races. The lower half/race is a regular ball bearing, the upper is a one way roller bearing. Which explains why even with the cluth dropped, I can ONLY spin the tub CCW. Which also explains why the newer series 12 models don't need the upper one way bearing on top of the clutch. :) I didn't realize the lower was different until I punched it out and of course damaged it in the process. Trying to find one today .””
In Spin Cycle of the Wash Cycle the One-Way Roller clutches have to lock up rock solid. If they slip while the wash basket begins to spin up there will be agitator shaft rotation causing the tumblers to rotate shifting the wash basket load off balance and the machine TDS (Tub Displacement Sensor) to signal the Control Board of the Wash Tub out of balance condition. That produces the dC/uC unbalance errors in Spin Cycle You don’t have that problem you indicate you don’t complete the Spin Cycle of the Wash Cycle and I feel that is because of the Diag Code block 16 hits.
I’ll hang in there if you dive in to your issue. Replacing the Outer Tub Bearing is some work. If you can tolerate the down time and decide to go forward read thru my Series 10 post I shared with other owners replacing the Outer Tub Bearings.
I believe if you get a quote from a Repair Company you are looking at $500 to $800 range in which case it would be new machine time if you don’t DIY.
Looking at about $50 or less in parts for Tub Seal, Tranny O-Ring, 6207 2RS bearings and some shims that the Series 15 owner mentioned in his post. I used a 1.75” socket and my air impact wrench to remove the Spinner Nut and break loose the Spinner Assembly bolts. I bought the two items listed here this tool the Spinner Locking Nut and Spinner Wrench. Your Series 16 Outer Tub base I believe will not except the Spinner Locking nut. You can use a 1.75” socket/impact too to remove the Spinner Nut and a hand Socket or wrench to reinstall the Spinner Assembly and torque down snug no Torque Wrench required but if you have one do use. You can lock down the Spinner Assembly as the show on page 45 of the Service Manual as you tighten down the Spinner Nut from my observation.
I did break of a Spinner Bolt and had drill out and insert a Stainless Steel Heli Coil so be carefull and allow a good soak of PB blaster on the Spinner Bolts. I did give them a good soak but still snapped off one of the six bolts it was really corroded in.
You are not failing in Spin Cycle with dC or uC errors so you may get some life out of the Clutch Fix maintenance you did and can possible put off the Clutch Replacement.
If you decide to dive in and DIY the work I will hang in there with you and share my hands on experience. I post on four other DIY forums and have had good feedback but as I mentioned I’m no expert just a DIY guy like you……Rich
OK Bruce.... that is my best guess, I'm on the East Coast at work.
When I get home 0130 am tomorrow morning I'm going to try and simulate your issue by popping the top of my washer base, place the the machine in Spin Only cycle . Then place drag on the spinning wash basket and see if I can cause the Control Board to generate DIAG code blocks 16 and 10 with an error detected.
I was hoping someone would chime in with another thought as to what might be the root cause of your issue.
Take care and post back if you have any questions or concerns......****
Bruce,
Do you think you have the plug for the pressure switch seated properly on top of the drain pump?
I would go to page 16 of the Service Manual and see what readings you get for an empty tub.
You have a Series 16 machine your pressure switch is two level sensing.
See if the Pressure Switch is signaling correctly to the control board it should read a -0 as the table shows on page 16 when tub empty. It will go to -1 when the correct water level is reached as sensed by the pressure switch.
I would also try to shut the drain pump off in service mode just to make sure the Control Board is not an issue. I don’t think it is but give it a try…… see the bottom of page 16 to turn on and off the drain pump in Service Mode………..Rich
Thanks Rich,
I will try this when I get back to the machine. I spend most of my summer living at camp so I don't always get to my computer daily and only go home once in awhile.
I will let you know.
I did check and recheck connections and hey are ok. I will run the tests next.
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Clutch issue and possible time for a tub seal replacement
Google this for a post that covers the Clutch removal and inspection/repair;
""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW"" you will find the Service Manual in post 5 of that sticky.
Google this for Outer Tub bearing rebuild;"" FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement""
Google this; Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW
This is a DIY Appliance repair forum and you can get the Service Manual and owner repair support at that site..
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues (this issue) that I have helped owners with. I'm an owner of a FAV6800AWW top load machine.
I can
If you machine is a FAV6800A or FAV9800A don't worry about the last two letters of the model number.
Google this; Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW
This is a DIY Appliance repair forum and you can get the Service Manual and repair support at that site..
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues that I have helped owners with. I'm an owner of a FAV6800AWW top load machine.
If you need help post in the Maytag/Magic Chef/Admiral/Jenn-Air forum with your issue and we will try to help.
I no longer post on this site no way to post a Sticky.
If you want to DIY the repair Google this phrase ""Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW""" Read the post Part 1; DC or UC unbalance error codes in Spin Cycle what is causing this issue? Part 2 for the fix action.
Post your issue in the repair forum not in the Sticky. Please include your Model Number i.e. FAV6800A or FAV9800A and I will help you.
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I just did the clutch fix yesterday. and I used the clutch fix post as a guide. There was alote of rest on one of the bearings. I cleaned it as best I could
The code comes up as dc and if I restart it will finish the cycle sometimes. I also ran the spin cycle with no clothes and the timer ran down to 9 minutes then reset itself to twelve minutes then stoped at 7 minutes. When I pressed the pause button to continue it completed the cycle. I ran it through again and it worked so it appears to be intermitant.
The series is a WW.
It does not have an upper bearing ring.
I had the front off the machine and I could watch it go through the different rpm changes and the tub appeared to be off balance a little even hen empty and it did seem to drag at certain rpm changes that caused it to reset the timer and stop.
I just did the clutch fix yesterday. and I used the clutch fix post as a guide. There was alote of rest on one of the bearings. I cleaned it as best I could
The code comes up as dc and if I restart it will finish the cycle sometimes. I also ran the spin cycle with no clothes and the timer ran down to 9 minutes then reset itself to twelve minutes then stoped at 7 minutes. When I pressed the pause button to continue it completed the cycle. I ran it through again and it worked so it appears to be intermitant.
The series is a WW.
It does not have an upper bearing ring.
I had the front off the machine and I could watch it go through the different rpm changes and the tub appeared to be off balance a little even hen empty and it did seem to drag at certain rpm changes that caused it to reset the timer and stop.
Thanks for the continuing help. The series number is 16.
I spun he drum fast and it coasted for a little bit, more than a few rotatons and slowed smoothly. I also did the pinky test and it feels smooth and moves easily.
I started a load before I left this morning and it went all the way through but it was a very small load. I did another regular size load when I just got home and it stopped at 7 minutes and when I restarted it ran to the end. Thought that might be useful to know.
Again, I appreciate all the help making some lemonade out of this.
Hey Rich,
I spent a good part of the morning watching this thing cycle over and over, partly because of my own mistakes, and this is what I have for you.
I went into the past service codes and this is what was there, 10, 16, 8, 16, 8, 10, 16, 8. I then reset and ran a load through. It ran normal until 11 minutes and then it spun very slowly for 10+ minutes but the timer never went down. The entire time I could hear a switch in the control panel clicking on and off but did not seem to be doing anything.
After 10+ munites it reset to 15 minutes and restarted the rinse cycle. Again it reached 11 minutes, spun very slowly and I could hear a switch clicking. After more than 10 minutes it started to count down again and spin faster and it completed the cycle.
I rechecked the diagnostic codes and there are none on the machine.
It did stop once with a heavier load(but not oversize) and the buzzer chimed but no error codes came up. I simply took it off pause and it continued.
I also looked for some replacement parts online and found the clutch and tub seal but there is nothing anyone refers to as the outer tub bearing. I dont mind taking a stab a replacing these parts but I want to have the right parts.
Thanks, Bruce
I can get laundry done, though tedious, or now but I am going to gather the parts and take a crack at the bearings and seals. I will let you know how things go.
Thanks, Bruce
Hi Rich, I hopr this finds you.
I was limping along with my washer and building up to the tub repair when my pump went out completely. I replaced the pump and that is now pumping fine but the pump will not shut down. It runs constantly.
I am getting a no fill code because the pump is taking the water out as fast as it fills.
Maybe some of these things are related? Any ideas on why the pump wont stop?
Thanks Bruce
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