When I replaced Blades Theirs a star shaped shaft that the blades slide on before you place bolt on. I noticed the star shaped shaft is rounded off. How do I repair this? THANKS!

Try this.
Loosen the fastening bolts Loosen the three bolts that secure the blade.

2. Remove the blade
Now you can use a screwdriver to begin sliding the blade out of its slot. Grab the blade carefully and slide it out the rest of the way.

3. Repeat the process on the reverse side
Now turn the planer's drum around to the other side and repeat the process on the second blade.

4. Install the new blade
Now you can install the new blades. Notice the blades have a notch on them that aligns with the slot on the drum. Align the notch and slide the blade into place.

Loosely tighten the outer two nuts, but don't tighten them completely yet.

5. Align the blade
Make sure the blade is centered so it won't rub against either side of the planer. Once the blade is centered you can fasten the bolts down completely.

6. Repeat the process on the reverse side
Now rotate the drum and install the new blade on the other side.

use the blades for leverage when loosening the bolts. when putting new blades on, hold the blade in the star center hub install washer and bolt. use blade for leverage when tightening.

Does the motor spin, but the blade is not turning?
The motor has a D shaped shaft. If the hole in the blade that the shaft goes in is rounded, then the blade will spin. In that case you need a new blade. Vornado can supply that.

Dont know exactly what you mean, but turn blades with cutting angle up. Make sure if a star like center on blade is lined up and goes over the star like on shaft and tightned bolts. If it has a tray like blade holder, just put up against it and tightned bolt. The way to remember is to put the cutting edge angled side up.

the reason it sheard off is because you did not put the blade on right.
you have to hold blade in position untill you turn nut all the way up and make sure blade has the star part in the blade when you tighten it.
you have to buy a new shaft most come with the lower bearing on them.

With respect to the above "answer", this tool has NO locking lever! It uses only a set screw to hold blades in place. It so happens that newer "star" mounting blades will fit into this tool easily, One must center the blade so the fingers of the star are outside of the raised circular surround of the hole. A washer (use a larger tapered one) and the set screw will then press the blade against the back surface of the bit holder. Tighten up this assembly, turn it on a cut away!

on blade you will notice two small phillips head screws. remove both screws with thumb on blade. with other hand remove the blade. Blade has two parts. The smaller blade lays on top of the larger blade. align two blades together. Hold the blade compartment in your hand upward with smaller blade on top of the larger blade. On the clipper in between the two hole where screws go there is a small arm with a round shaped tip. Put the base on to the blades a fixing the round shaped arm into the blades ensure proper fitting. With hand holding the clipper turn over while thumb is holding the blades in place and replace screws.

1. Unplug the saw.
2. Locate the blade lock button used to lock the motor shaft when changing a blade. For your saw, this button is usually located on the left side of the blade guard somewhere around the motor housing.
3. Push the button while rotating the blade until the button engages and the blade will no longer turn.
4. Use the wrench that came with the saw (or another wrench) to loosen and remove the blade bolt. For your saw the bolt should have standard right hand threads which means you loosen the bolt by turning it counter clock-wise.
5. Remove the old blade and replace it with a new blade of the same mounting type. Some blades have a round through hole and some blades have a diamond through hole.
6. Re-install the blade bolt and tighten clock-wise while holding the blade lock button down.

THE answer that FINALLY worked for me. Torque the bolt that holds on the blade to the recommended torque specified in your owners manual (for my Exmark this torque is 120 ft-lbs). When I first used the torque wrench, i was quite surprised by the amount of addional force I needed to apply to reach 120 ft-lbs Exmark blades have a round blade hole with a washer and therefore, relies only on friction provided by torquing bolt to the proper torque to prevent slippage so that the blade rotates at the same speed as the spindle. When slippage between the blade and spindle occurs, blade tip speed slows leaving uncut grass.
Note: this solution will NOT work for mowers with a blade and spindle design which uses a positive means (e.g., a star shaped hole on the blade) that assures the blade rotates at the same speed as the spindle with no slippage.

I just fixed mine and what came out of the end of the lense housing was the shutter assembly. Your camera will still work but the shutter will not operate for protecting your lense.

What was on the ground from the shutter assembly looked like six parts but actually there's eight:

1 - Front round plate (what you see if shutter assembly was still in the lense housing).
2 - Hair size springs that hopefully stayed in the sides of the front round plate. IF NOT OR EITHER ARE LOST, THE SHUTTERS CAN'T BE SET TO CLOSE SO SKIP THE STEPS BELOW ABOUT INSTALLING THE BLADES.
1 - back round plate (black with four tabs).
2 - Larger L-shaped blades.
2 - Smaller L-shaped blades.

Place the front round plate with cosmetic (engraved 'PENTAX...) side down and look at the inside for two round mounting posts on the left and right. You will be using the larger of the two posts on each side for placing the L-shaped blades.

Place the larger L-shape blades with the hole end onto the posts. Blades should swing freely and their backs match with the shape of the inside of the front plate when open.

Place the smaller L-shape blades on top of their respective larger L-shape blades with the hole end onto the same posts used in the last step. Blades should swing freely and their backs match with the shape of the inside of the front plate when open along with the larger L-shape blades.

Springs (long ends) will need to notch into the smaller L-shape piece end (nearest the hole/post end). This is a real trickly part of the assembly and I used two tools like large pins or needles to pry the spring into the notch. If you can't do this, no sense in even leaving the four L-shaped blades inside of the front round plate since the shutter will not close properly without the springs.

Align and snap the back round plate tabs onto the front round plate. The shutter assembly is now ready to put back into the lense assembly.

MAKE SURE THE CAMERA IS IN THE OFF POSITION AND THE LENSE ASSEMBLY IS RETRACTED!

Align the front of the shutter assembly with the engraved wording properly oriented (not sideways, not upside down, etc.) and press gently into the lense assembly until completely in the end of the housing.

If blades were installed properly, they will open when the camera is turned on, and close when the camera is turned off.

If blades were not installed, the empty shutter assembly (back round plate snapped onto front round plate) can still be pressed into the lense housing...the shutter will just not work and the lense will always be exposed. Actually, this is one helluva lot easier than fixing the shutter assembly and not the end of the world for your camera's operation!