Refrigerator 9 years old; new compressor 3 years ago; after a move refrigerator was not cooling; new evaporator motor put in; now works fine, thanks to fixya
You are welcome!
Would there be anything else that we may assist you with regarding this issue?
Thank you!
It could be the water line connection (If applicable) or during the move the drain tube somehow got out of position is draining on the floor instead of the catch pan.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
It could be the water line connection (If applicable) or during the
move the drain tube somehow got out of position is draining on the
floor instead of the catch pan.
there is no water line; the drain tube is in the catch pan. nobody is answering my question about the ice-covered copper tubing. this is bizarre! help!
If you have ice on the line that could be a sign of an overcharge condition or dirty coils. Clean under the ice box and check the low side pressure for 5PSI. The amp draw should be around 1 amp. If it is over amping that is another sign of an overcharged condition. Did you lay the ice box don during the move? Failure to wait for the oil to run back down into the compressor can cause fouling resulting in what might be an overcharge condition or ice on the suction line of the ice box. One other thing. I only read the other responses given after you made a comment. I did not see any of your other comments.
I went by this right Cheer amigo:
Why is water leaking behind refrigerator?"refrigerator 9 years old; new compressor 3 years ago; after a move
refrigerator was not cooling; new evaporator motor put in; now works
fine, thanks to fixya"
A tech is not going to assume ice is on the line because that never happens in a properly charged unit. That is what I had to go by. Now where is it in there you had ice on a line? I would have know what the problem was in 10 seconds or less. LOL
I wish I could type.
Was the new evaporator motor the exact replacement? As the freon travels through the coils and the air from the fan hits it all of the design components must match the theory of operation. their is a formula for air over coils with refrigerant flowing through. You change the air speed, the freon level, or the condition of the coils(dirt dust etc) then that will form ice on the suction side pressure. When she gets satisfied the cold control shuts down the ice box and BOOM you got a puddle of water on the floor.
As long as we is diagnosing lets get the basics covered.
That dust cover absolutely has to be in place for the refrigerator to work correctly.
Put some gauges on that ice box. The low side pressure should be 5PSI.
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Sorry, but I can't get the problem. Can you kindly let me know what is the new problem you are facing after changing new evaporator motor.
the problem is that the refrigerator is leaking water. Since there is ice on the copper tubing going between compressor and refrigerator cabinet (and I don't think that is supposed to be there), I assume that that ice is from time to time partially melting. The leak is not from the drip pan and not from any ice-maker connection, since we don't have one. The leak is coming from the area where the ice on the copper tubing is located--lower left rear. Also, the black (paperboard?) cover for that open area, which should jut out behind compressor and ice-laden tubing, is deformed and the insulation part is rubbing against the tubing. I don't know whether that is part of the problem or not, but I don't think I should leave that piece off, right?
I think when you changed the evaporator motor you didn't follow the specs of the old one. Did you, have you purchased the same model?
I think this will be of a bit help to you.
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumb...
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Hello,
I believe your problem as been solve with the help of fixya expert, it is good, that is why we are there to give customer what they want.
Take care.
Hello,
I did not see your comments, Move the refrigerator out from the wall and look for the location of the
leak.Check the side panels and the seals around the door for beads of
"sweat." This could indicate a condensation problem.Check the floor. A puddle there could indicate a missing or cracked drip
pan, or a leak in the water line that feeds your ice maker.Check for water seeping from the front of the freezer or the
refrigerator. This could indicate your defrost drain is plugged or your
ice maker is leaking.
Look behind your refrigerator. At the bottom of your unit there will be a
small drip pan. Remove it with a screwdriver, clean it and fill it with
clean water. If you notice water leaking from the drip pan, purchase a
replacement.Inspect the hoses leading to your ice maker as a last resort. There will
be a tube running from the wall to the unit and another, thicker tube
up the back. Check that the fittings are tight. If they are not tight,
secure them with a wrench to stop the leak.
Fixing a drip-pan problemPull off the grill that runs along the bottom of your refrigerator.
Locate the drip pan, using a flashlight if necessary. The pan should be
sitting on top of a set of black condenser coils and directly below a
drain tube that carries water from your freezer when it is in defrost
mode.
Place the drip pan in your sink and fill it with water to test for
leaks. If it leaks, order a replacement from your appliance dealerIf the drip pan doesn't leak, clean it with warm, soapy water, then
reinstall the pan and the refrigerator grill.
Take care.
Hello,
This a defrost problem, The solution is to first completely empty the freezer (sorry), unplug it
and remove the cover in the back of the freezer case. This is usually a
full metal sheet with screws securing it to the case. If you find it
in several pieces, it is probably the bottom section you need to remove.
Once
you've uncovered the inner workings of your freezer, you need to
locate the rather obvious defrost elements - these will usually be
exposed cooper rods or tubes that heat up during each defrost cycle.
Find the defrost element that is closest to the freezer's drainline, and
wrap one end of the cooper wire around the defrost rod about 5 or 6
times - then run it down the inside of the rear of the freezer case, and
into the drain itself, about 6 or 8 inches or more if possible.
What
you have just done is to assure that each time your freezer defrost
comes on, the drain water will always have a clear and unfrozen path
out. Replace the cover in the back of the freezer case, and put your
food back in. Plug the freezer back in. This will fix the problem and
will never occur again.
Take care.
×
Hi,
OK somewhere, either behind the fridge or wherever the line comes in from should be a small shut off valve, could be in the basement etc, wherever it hooks into the water supply line you will find that valve.
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
Your reply implies I have an ice-maker. I don't. Here is the exchange to which I am eagerly awaiting an answer. Is anyone listening?
Solution #1
posted on
Jun 11, 2010
al_kupchella
Rank:
Guru
Rating:
94.23%
,
71
votes
Water is either coming from the water-supply to the ice-maker, or from
an overflowing evaporation tray under the refrigerator. Check the tray
first. If it's full, it could still be coming from the water-supply, or
from the defrost cycle. If the tray is empty, it's definitely the water
supply. If the tray is full, then empty the tray and turn off the water
supply. Wait a day or two to see if anything changes. If the tray
doesn't fill up, then it's the ice maker supply. If it still fills up,
then there is something wrong in that there is so much defrosting to
do. Give this a try and let us know what happens.
Thanks for using fixya.
Jun 11, 2010
-
Thanks Al,
First, there is no ice-maker hookup. Secondly, there is almost no water in the evap tray.
Now,
new info: There is copper tubing at the back. One tube goes between the
condensor and the fan. That tubing is fine. There is a second copper
tube that goes from the compressor up into the refrigerator.
That is
covered with an 1/8th inch (?) layer of ice. I repositioned the
refrigerator to leave the back exposed, and in that process the ref.
was unplugged for about 30 seconds. Shortly thereafter the ice began to
melt off that copper tubing., resulting in water on the floor. Would
that brief power interruption do that? The tubing is now freezing up
again. Is this ice the source of our leeking?
Questions:
1. Should that tubing have ice on it? Is freezing and melting there the problem?
2.
There is a black cardboard piece that is attached to the open area at
the bottom of the back. The right side has holes for the fan exhaust.
The left part, which is behind the compressor and the copper tubing,
has some insulation material of some kind on the inside. The left part
of this black cardboard is all disfigured, and the insulation material
is touching the copper tubing with ice on it (part of the tubing
protrudes beyond the plane of the back of the ref.). Is the cardboard
necessary? Do I need a new one that would bulge out, avoiding the
tubing?
3. You suggest emptying the drain tray if it is full. I see no way to get the tray out. Do you sponge out the water?
×
Thank you too for the appreciation of fixya and its experts.
The water leaking problem:--
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door
Self-defrosting refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates. (See a more detailed explanation of this in the How Things Work section of our website).
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.
In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.
Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is equipped with a switch inside that says “energy saver” or something similar, while running in that mode the door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the condensation disappears the problem is solved.
The back of the refrigerator
Water coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either the ice maker water valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from the defrost drain pan.
Here's what to do:
If the water is coming from the ice maker water valve, check to make sure the water tubes are attached properly and are fastened tightly.
If the water seems to be coming from any part of the valve itself, replace the valve.
If the water appears to be coming from the defrost drain pan, inspect for holes or cracks, and replace the pan if necessary.
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
Water accumulating on the ceiling of the refrigerator is usually caused by a clogged drain in the freezer section beneath the evaporator. The clogged drain will cause water from the self defrost cycle to leak into the divider between the freezer and refrigerator. This water may then freeze and cause condensation build-up on the refrigerator ceiling. The solution to this problem begins with unclogging the drain. It may also be necessary to remove the entire freezer/refrigerator divider to thoroughly dry the insulation in the divider. Occasionally the insulation needs to be replaced to prevent a recurrence of the problem. This can be a big job – you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
In some refrigerators, the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain - usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
If the refrigerator is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door, check if the water line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip pan to be sure it isn’t out of place, broken or cracked
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution
and show your appreciation.
dear kapishtech,I'm working through your suggestions, but first, you don't seem to have reacted to al k's first solution and my response to it--maybe you didn't see my response, to which he also did not respond. here it is.
Solution #1
posted on
Jun 11, 2010
al_kupchella
Rank:
Guru
Rating:
94.23%
,
71
votes
Water is either coming from the water-supply to the ice-maker, or from
an overflowing evaporation tray under the refrigerator. Check the tray
first. If it's full, it could still be coming from the water-supply, or
from the defrost cycle. If the tray is empty, it's definitely the water
supply. If the tray is full, then empty the tray and turn off the water
supply. Wait a day or two to see if anything changes. If the tray
doesn't fill up, then it's the ice maker supply. If it still fills up,
then there is something wrong in that there is so much defrosting to
do. Give this a try and let us know what happens.
Thanks for using fixya.
Jun 11, 2010
-
Thanks Al,
First, there is no ice-maker hookup. Secondly, there is almost no water in the evap tray.
Now,
new info: There is copper tubing at the back. One tube goes between the
condensor and the fan. That tubing is fine. There is a second copper
tube that goes from the compressor up into the refrigerator.
That is
covered with an 1/8th inch (?) layer of ice. I repositioned the
refrigerator to leave the back exposed, and in that process the ref.
was unplugged for about 30 seconds. Shortly thereafter the ice began to
melt off that copper tubing., resulting in water on the floor. Would
that brief power interruption do that? The tubing is now freezing up
again. Is this ice the source of our leeking?
Questions:
1. Should that tubing have ice on it? Is freezing and melting there the problem?
2.
There is a black cardboard piece that is attached to the open area at
the bottom of the back. The right side has holes for the fan exhaust.
The left part, which is behind the compressor and the copper tubing,
has some insulation material of some kind on the inside. The left part
of this black cardboard is all disfigured, and the insulation material
is touching the copper tubing with ice on it (part of the tubing
protrudes beyond the plane of the back of the ref.). Is the cardboard
necessary? Do I need a new one that would bulge out, avoiding the
tubing?
3. You suggest emptying the drain tray if it is full. I see no way to get the tray out. Do you sponge out the water?
Refrigerators work by removing the warmth from the air within their interior compartments and relaying that heat to the air outside. The coolant (freon) accomplishes this transfer as it passes through a circuit, moving from the evaporator to the condenser. Beginning in the evaporator, which lies inside an insulated cabinet, the freon is heated. Because it has been made to boil, the freon draws heat from the air within the refrigerator. Having absorbed this heat, the freon is then routed to the condenser. In this set of copper coils (usually mounted at the back or on the bottom of the refrigerator), the freon condenses—returns to a liquid state—transferring its heat into the outside air as it does so. After cooling, the freon then returns to the evaporator, where it is once again heated and begins to absorb heat from the food stored within the refrigerator. Sometimes, to increase their surface area (and thus facilitate thermal transfer), the evaporator and the condenser are fitted with metal fins.
For defrosting, a coil is wrapped around the freezer unit. When the timer reaches defrost, the refrigerant is passed through this coil while it is hot to raise the temperature and melt the ice. The coil is generally positioned away from any ice makers to prevent the ice cubes from melting and freezing together.
-------------
The refrigeration components are attached to the cabinet using screws and clips. The tubing is soldered together, and a protective coating is sprayed on the joints. The order of this assembly varies between manufacturers and models. The copper tubing from which the coils (condensers and evaporators) have separately been cut, bent, and soldered is then attached to the refrigerator as a unit.
If the soldering of the copper tube gets loose or any ice cube is blocked in it the watter will leak from the side of the tube.
Thanks.
×
Water is either coming from the water-supply to the ice-maker, or from an overflowing evaporation tray under the refrigerator. Check the tray first. If it's full, it could still be coming from the water-supply, or from the defrost cycle. If the tray is empty, it's definitely the water supply. If the tray is full, then empty the tray and turn off the water supply. Wait a day or two to see if anything changes. If the tray doesn't fill up, then it's the ice maker supply. If it still fills up, then there is something wrong in that there is so much defrosting to do. Give this a try and let us know what happens. Thanks for using fixya.
Thanks Al,
First, there is no ice-maker hookup. Secondly, there is almost no water in the evap tray.
Now, new info: There is copper tubing at the back. One tube goes between the condensor and the fan. That tubing is fine. There is a second copper tube that goes from the compressor up into the refrigerator.
That is covered with an 1/8th inch (?) layer of ice. I repositioned the refrigerator to leave the back exposed, and in that process the ref. was unplugged for about 30 seconds. Shortly thereafter the ice began to melt off that copper tubing., resulting in water on the floor. Would that brief power interruption do that? The tubing is now freezing up again. Is this ice the source of our leeking?
Questions:
1. Should that tubing have ice on it? Is freezing and melting there the problem?
2. There is a black cardboard piece that is attached to the open area at the bottom of the back. The right side has holes for the fan exhaust. The left part, which is behind the compressor and the copper tubing, has some insulation material of some kind on the inside. The left part of this black cardboard is all disfigured, and the insulation material is touching the copper tubing with ice on it (part of the tubing protrudes beyond the plane of the back of the ref.). Is the cardboard necessary? Do I need a new one that would bulge out, avoiding the tubing?
3. You suggest emptying the drain tray if it is full. I see no way to get the tray out. Do you sponge out the water?
×
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Usually answered in minutes!
Unless I'm not looking in the right place, I see no response from al_kupchella to my response to his first advice (and it's been two hours
I gave an initial problem of water leaking from under the refrigerator (MTB2456GE). Here is a solution I got Friday afternoon and my response. When I got no response to my response, I asked for another expert, who made suggestions that showed he had not seen the exchange below, and when I sent him that, I got no reply. Help!
Solution #1 posted on Jun 11, 2010
al_kupchella
Rank: Guru
Rating: 94.23% , 71 votes
Water is either coming from the water-supply to the ice-maker, or from an overflowing evaporation tray under the refrigerator. Check the tray first. If it's full, it could still be coming from the water-supply, or from the defrost cycle. If the tray is empty, it's definitely the water supply. If the tray is full, then empty the tray and turn off the water supply. Wait a day or two to see if anything changes. If the tray doesn't fill up, then it's the ice maker supply. If it still fills up, then there is something wrong in that there is so much defrosting to do. Give this a try and let us know what happens. Thanks for using fixya.
Jun 11, 2010 - Thanks Al,
First, there is no ice-maker hookup. Secondly, there is almost no water in the evap tray.
Now, new info: There is copper tubing at the back. One tube goes between the condensor and the fan. That tubing is fine. There is a second copper tube that goes from the compressor up into the refrigerator.
That is covered with an 1/8th inch (?) layer of ice. I repositioned the refrigerator to leave the back exposed, and in that process the ref. was unplugged for about 30 seconds. Shortly thereafter the ice began to melt off that copper tubing., resulting in water on the floor. Would that brief power interruption do that? The tubing is now freezing up again. Is this ice the source of our leeking?
Questions:
1. Should that tubing have ice on it? Is freezing and melting there the problem?
2. There is a black cardboard piece that is attached to the open area at the bottom of the back. The right side has holes for the fan exhaust. The left part, which is behind the compressor and the copper tubing, has some insulation material of some kind on the inside. The left part of this black cardboard is all disfigured, and the insulation material is touching the copper tubing with ice on it (part of the tubing protrudes beyond the plane of the back of the ref.). Is the cardboard necessary? Do I need a new one that would bulge out, avoiding the tubing?
3. You suggest emptying the drain tray if it is full. I see no way to get the tray out. Do you sponge out the water?
can you follow the chain, without my repeating it here. my responders have ignored my question about the copper tubing coated with ice from compressor to refrigerator cabinet.
here's a copy:
Water is either coming from the water-supply to the ice-maker, or from an overflowing evaporation tray under the refrigerator. Check the tray first. If it's full, it could still be coming from the water-supply, or from the defrost cycle. If the tray is empty, it's definitely the water supply. If the tray is full, then empty the tray and turn off the water supply. Wait a day or two to see if anything changes. If the tray doesn't fill up, then it's the ice maker supply. If it still fills up, then there is something wrong in that there is so much defrosting to do. Give this a try and let us know what happens. Thanks for using fixya.
Jun 11, 2010 - Thanks Al,
First, there is no ice-maker hookup. Secondly, there is almost no water in the evap tray.
Now, new info: There is copper tubing at the back. One tube goes between the condensor and the fan. That tubing is fine. There is a second copper tube that goes from the compressor up into the refrigerator.
That is covered with an 1/8th inch (?) layer of ice. I repositioned the refrigerator to leave the back exposed, and in that process the ref. was unplugged for about 30 seconds. Shortly thereafter the ice began to melt off that copper tubing., resulting in water on the floor. Would that brief power interruption do that? The tubing is now freezing up again. Is this ice the source of our leeking?
Questions:
1. Should that tubing have ice on it? Is freezing and melting there the problem?
2. There is a black cardboard piece that is attached to the open area at the bottom of the back. The right side has holes for the fan exhaust. The left part, which is behind the compressor and the copper tubing, has some insulation material of some kind on the inside. The left part of this black cardboard is all disfigured, and the insulation material is touching the copper tubing with ice on it (part of the tubing protrudes beyond the plane of the back of the ref.). Is the cardboard necessary? Do I need a new one that would bulge out, avoiding the tubing?
3. You suggest emptying the drain tray if it is full. I see no way to get the tray out. Do you sponge out the water?
what is this, a joke? why is no one addressing my problem?
i keep asking about ice on the copper tubing at the back of the refrigerator. why is NO ONE answering my question?
I've made several attempts at this; some experts have misunderstood my problem; I have misunderstood some answers. I'd like to start from scratch:
our Maytag refrigerator, MTB2456GE, leaks. There is no ice-maker hookup; drip pan is OK. Copper tubing going between compressor and ref. compartment has a lot of ice on it. Are there measures I myself could try to diagnose and fix this (steps not requiring guages to check pressures, etc. Should the cardboard cover going behind compressor, copper tubes, etc. as well as the fan, be in place?
The problem is that the refrigerator is leaking water. Since there is ice on the copper tubing going between compressor and refrigerator cabinet (and I don't think that is supposed to be there), I assume that that ice is from time to time partially melting. The leak is not from the drip pan and not from any ice-maker connection, since we don't have one. The leak is coming from the area where the ice on the copper tubing is located--lower left rear. Also, the black (paperboard?) cover for that open area, which should jut out behind compressor and ice-laden tubing, is deformed and the insulation part is rubbing against the tubing. I don't know whether that is part of the problem or not, but I don't think I should leave that piece off, right?
The back story is that I replaced the evaperator fan two months ago. The prior expert hinted and then stated that I put in the wrong evaperator fan, which is not true, and the refrigerator was working fine between then and now.
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