Bottom drain rusted out how do i remove and replace

SOURCE: Hobart SR24C-4 Dishwasher can't drain completely

If this is a new occurance, and not "since it was installed", it may be the drain impellor. Little fins on top of the impellor sometimes get worn off. It is under the lower wash arm in the pump housing. The only trick to taking the pump apart is not loosing any of the shims.

Go to page 12.
http://www.hobartlink.com/extranet/extranetmanualsandcatalogs.nsf/860F7951C087BD7F85256D36004978EA/$File/F43078.pdf

Also, (and most likely if the unit looses water during the wash cycle), any obstruction to the drain valve can cause it to not drain proper. The drain valve uses a little flapper valve to drain the unit. It has a rubber stopper that needs to properly close. The drain valve is at the front of the unit with a red coil and white plastic body. It needs to be closely inspected. (page 22)

If this is a problem since it has been installed, it is likely due to the running of the external drain line. (Too high)

SOURCE: i have a very old Imperial Hobart KitchenAid home

It may have leaked some water on one of the electrical parts and made the smell. Leak could have been from a dirty gasket, so check the gasket and clean it up with just a few wet paper towels.

It could also have been a solenoid that failed and overheated, but since it went through the cycle it sounds like maybe it's okay.

If it is an electrical part, then they are not too hard to get. There are several stores online and brick and mortar that will help out.

SOURCE: pressure release keeps draining hot water

The 1/2" drain line you are referring to is probably the 3/4" line from the booster heater located to the left of the pump motor. The temperature/pressure relief valve is bad.

The booster heater could be overheating (bad thermostat), or you may not have an expansion tank on your building hot water system. The heating and explanding water in the booster has no where to expand to, causing a pressure spike high enough to pop the valve.

First, change the valve. I use a heavier-duty Watts XL40 valve, I purchase them from International Commercial Supply or Johnstone. Even if there is a cause for them to leak, once they start leaking they need to be replaced.

Once the new valve is in, power up and test the unit. Power up and fill the unit, then let the booster recover until it cycles off. Run a cycle, and check your rinse temperature. I like to see 190-192 degrees. If it went higher than 195 I'd turn the thermostat down. If it didn't shut off at all, and the relief blew, time to replace the thermostats in the booster heater.

SOURCE: require installation instructions, and parts

wm5h many parts are obsolete for that dishwasher

SOURCE: Hobart dishwasher model LX30H displays -5 on

by the way you're describing the problem, i would have to say there is something wrong with your control board. part#473173 can be bought @ any hobart office in your area. dont forget to vote

Testimonial: "Turns out it was mice eaten wiring."