The first thing to check is the filter. It may have become loosened during loading of groceries or damaged due to freezing or even age. You should not have to shut the water supply off to do this - but since water is leaking from that area, it might be a good idea to do so first, or place a pot under it. Remove the filter by twisting the housing - most housings have arrows to indicate direction to turn and to align for installation - usually not more than a 1/4 - 1/2 turn.
Once out, inspect the housing of the filter - look for cracks and damaged seals on the neck or of the filter. If any are found, replace the filter. The filter should be changed periodically and if this has been in service for more than 6 months to a year, it is due for a change out.
You could use a mirror to look at the filter holder - there shouldn't be anything foreign there - especially if the ice maker was working fine before this.
Reinstall if it looks OK, or install a new filter. The filter should twist in reverse of the way it came out. You should feel resistance to turning 1/2 way through the turn until it can not be turned any further. Do not force the filter as it will not form a better seal than the 1/4 - 1/2 turn required to fully seat.
A filter can crack open if subjected to temperatures 32 degrees and lower, as the water in the housing will freeze and expand resulting in cracks in the housing. Check the temperature of the fresh food compartment by placing a thermometer capable of reading these temperatures in a cup of water nearest the filter location. Allow a couple hours for the water to assume the temperature of the compartment. Typical fresh food compartments should be around 35 degrees F. Adjust as needed.
I hope this helps - good luck!
SOURCE: Refrigerator no water dispensing or ice
have you tried just running the dispenser to give the water reservoir time to fill up with water. depending on water supply pressure it cant ake as long as 1-2 minutes to purge all the air and for the reservoir to fill. thanks Peyton
SOURCE: slow ice maker,poor water dispencer flow
If you used a self piercing saddle valve to hook up to the water supply it is probably the source of your problem. These should never be used. You need to install a drill in type which will increase the water flow and probably never clog.
SOURCE: About a week ago, ice making slowed way down.
changed the water filter. cost $43 for a new one. crazy.
SOURCE: My Inglis Refrigerator doesn't make ice anymore,
Had the same problem. Chances are that the water has frozen in the supply tube, not allowing water into the maker. you will need to unplug and thaw out your fridge entirely to thaw it out. I used a hair dryer pointed at the filler tube to defrost it.
SOURCE: I have model 106.56582500 w/ice maker.water will
HI. First, you will need to rule out any standard issues that will cause this. Check the internal, and external feed lines for any obstructions. Make sure that the internal lines are not frozen, or kinked. If the lines check out ok, move on to the water filter(if equipped).
In most units, there will be a filter, present. These devices are set to operate on a particular time frame. If their filtering limit is met, the filter will stop filtering water, thus, not allowing the fluid to flow, at all. Make sure that the filter is up to date. If you have verified that the filter is ok, move on to the water inlet valve assembly.
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to Remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. the multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Now. If the inlet valve is operational, and it has passed the above inspection, this will lead to a faulty inlet switch. This will be located, and mounted on the ice maker module board. First you must make sure of the design. Most ice maker control sectors are the module type and some are the traditional type. the traditional type is refereed to as a component ice maker. These are easier to work on. They have the gear components exposed, just behind the face plate. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. These are not serviceable. You will need to replace the entire module, if this is your type. The inlet switch is not accessible. The ejector motor, and mold heater are the only components that can be tested on a module style ice maker.
To determine which model you have, Remove the outer face plate. If there is a knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. If it is a component style ice maker, follow the procedure below to test the inlet switch. if it is a module type, simply replace the entire ice maker. it is not repairable, due to the fact that the inlet switch is not accessible.
component ice maker inlet inspection procedure:(unplug the unit before attempting this inspection)
First you will need to Remove the entire ice maker form the unit.The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, Remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so already. Just along the the edge, nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate. The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker structure.
the inlet switch is located on the mounting plate, near the cam. the inlet switch is mounted on a thin plastic insulator and can be differentiated from the holding switch which sits on a thick spacer. the inlet switch also uses only two wires, while the holding switch uses three. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors.Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals NOTE_ If the connectors are corroded, try to clean them. if the connectors cant be cleaned, simply, replace them.
Now, it is time for the testing section of the procedure.Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to the side terminal and the second probe to each of the other terminals. The reading should be zero on one terminal and infinite on the other. Now, repeat the test while depressing the switch, the readings should now be the reversed. If the switch fails the test, it should be replaced.
* NOTE_ If you have the component type, i would verify motor functions, as well. Test the motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Touch one probe to the wire from the wire cap. Touch the other probe to each of the two other wires in turn. The reading should be between infinity and zero for each wire.If the motor test results in a zero or infinity reading on either wire, the motor should be replaced.
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