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When you pull the wire up does it increase the right ear bud volume/ sound? If it does, then it means the right side ear bud has a short within the head phones circuit which is aka the wire that leads to the musical device in which the ear buds branch off from.
If the right side ear bud does not produce an increased volume for sound by picking the wire up or pulling it in towards you or to the left side of your body or musical device then it means that the right speaker is blown.
I know that all head phones come spiced together aka they are stuck together and have to be pulled apart in order to get both head phones seperated from each other so that they can be worn in the ears. If you pulled the wire apart to much or too quickly then that is what ruined the right head phone.
I suggest that regardless if the ear phones begin to work by pulling the wire up,side ways, or into towards your body that you return them back to the store since after awhile the problem will eventually continue to happen causing the right ear bud to completely blow. Once you return the ear phones be cautious with the new set when you seperate the ear buds from each other since they are very touchy and have to be handled with delicateness when seperation is taking place.
Please let me know how it works out for you. I have had many ear buds and I tell ya something; they are very easy to blow one side when seperating. I had to learn after a few pairs that I was ruining the speakers by the way I was seperating my wires. I kept thinking for the first 3 pairs that the store was selling blown ear buds until I began having same problems with another few stores so I said to myself "well the solution is to figure out what I am doing wrong in order to blow one side of my ear buds every time". After few seconds it was not that obvious that all I had to do for assembly was to pull the wires apart in order to get both ear buds to go into my ears.
The LE error message means locked motor error and it is almost always accounted for an out-of-order Hall Effect Sensor. Other causes includes defective Main Board and broken wiring harness.
To check the Hall Effect Sensor:
Unplug the machine.
Remove the top plate assembly by unscrewing the two screws on the back of the top plate.
Look for the Main Board assembly on the rear left side of the machine.
Remove the power connector and sensor switch assembly.
Remove the Main Board assembly protection cover by releasing the latches along its sides.
Look for the 4-pin white connector with white, gray , red, and blue wires. It is the wiring harness going to the Hall Effect Sensor. Disconnect it from the board.
Using a multimeter, check the resistance between the white and blue wires and between the white and red wires. Resistance should read about 10k ohms.
If either resistance reads open, check for a broken wiring
harness and repair or replace as necessary. Otherwise, the Hall Effect
Sensor is defective and must be replaced.
If the tests above show that the Hall Effect Sensor seemed to be good, you have
to check if the Main Board delivers 10 to 15 Vdc supply to it.
Reconnect the machine to the power outlet.
Press POWER but DO NOT PRESS START.
Set the multimeter to DC volt and measure the voltage between white and gray wire terminals on the Main Board. Voltage should be 10 to 15 Vdc. Otherwise, the Main Board is defective and must be replaced.
Connect the red test lead to the red wire and the black test lead to the gray wire.
Turn the motor rotor slowly by hand.
You should measure a pulsating 10 Vdc if the Hall Effect Sensor is okay.
Repeat the step with the red test lead connected to the blue wire.
If you measure a 10 Vdc but not pulsating, the Hall Effect Sensor is defective and must be replaced.
Feel free to inform me if the Hall Effect Sensor or the Main Board needs to be replaced and if you want to replace it yourself.
1. Open back of the washing machine and control panel. Locate two wire harness coming out of main motor and main board. Check the wires for any cuts and harnesses for any corrosion. Fix the cuts and sand the corrosion to fix the issue.
2. Check the windings on the motor by pulling 3-wire connector from main board. Check resistance between each of 3 pairs using multi meter. The resistance should be 8-15 ohms. If one or more pair has no resistance reading then the winding is burned. Replace the rotor winding. Rotor windings can be ordered from here: http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-wm1832cw-%3d%3di1266809&PartID=1266809
3. If windings are fine then the hall sensor or speed sensor or motor sensor or sensor assembly needs to be replaced. The hall sensor sits on the inside of the rotor winding. Hall sensor has 4 wire connector attached. To remove the hall sensor: Open the outrunner or magnetic rotor from the motor first. Remove a big bolt at the center of the motor by holding the magnetic rotor. Once bolt is removed, the magnetic rotor can be removed by simply pulling it straight out. You may have to wiggle it a bit. Now remove a screw holding a wire going to hall sensor towrds bottom left of the winding. Now remove six inside bolts holding rotor windings to the drum body. The rotor windings are heavy so be careful while removing the bolts. Remove two wire connectors from the rotor windings and pull out the windings. Lay the rotor windings flat facing connector side up. Remove the hall sensor by praying out tabs.
Hall sensor can be ordered from here: http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-wm1832cw-%3d%3di1268238&PartID=1268238