Thanks, I chatted with another expert and what you proposed is dead on. It was mentioned that I may have blown or "opened" a pico fuse. I have the service manual and have found the schematics and picture of the board but I dont know how to identify the pico fuses and am unsure how to test them with a meter. And as far as following the the trace to the next solder joint, do you mean the next spot of solder on the trace? This may not be the most advisable but could I scratch the trace and afix solder to that, my reason being I don't want to expand the scope of my problem to other components on the cb. so to sum up 1) identify pico fuse on schematic 2) testing fuse 3) creating jumper to pins Thanks for your help, Matt
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Re: I attempted a repair
There is no pico fuses in that model that can be affected by the convergence circuits. You can scratch the trace and attach solder to it. Thats usually not the best way to do it as its susseptable to becoming dislodged. pico fuses are usually identified with FL (fusable Link) in the part location, just test them with an ohms meter for continuity in circuit.
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Check the two green pico fuses F9A04 and F9A05 on the "Center Board" if either of those two fuses are blown then convergence ICs are the reason its shutting down with a 22 error code.The pico fuses look just like resistors but dont have color bands and they will be bright green.
You give us littel to go on here. Can you describe what happens (if anything) when you attempt to turn on the set? Is there a click? Is there a standby light on the set before you try turning it on? Is there sound or nothing at all?
While possible, dead sets are not usually caused by a blown fuse. If the fuse is blown, then the power supply will need work. If not blown, the power supply may still be the problem. Please update this with any other symptoms and we'll try to assist further.
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Pico fuses could be through out the board... And the service manual, if it has a parts list, does give the board designation for all the picos on it...
Although these are good pictures they don't show a great deal of detail... But picture 1 & 2 at the far left, above where the two sets of blue wires are plugged in - looks like a pico piggy-backed on top of another pico... Sometimes it's easier than desoldering the original pico just to piggy back them in this fashion - but it's not a good practice.
Start there and read the designation on the board... Then look in the parts list section of the service manual and find the others by their designation.
Did you remove one side of the resistors from circuit to check them? If you leave them in circuit a blown resistor will test good as it will read the resistance from the surrounding resistors. Usually its the 3.9 ohm resistors identified bu the bands orange,white ,gold and red. and also the 150 ohm identified by the bands brown, green, brown and gold
replace the convergence amps and any blown resistors or pico fuse on the board. this is a common problem of rear projection sets this repair is not for the amateur have it done by a pro. the cost of the repair may be around $ 350.00. if you so choose to do the repair yourself, look for the two large ICs on a large heat sink (stk392-xxx).repalce them use heat sink compound on the new ICs and check the resistors around the ICs with a DVOM and check any pico fuses for open.