Question about Panasonic PT-53TW53 53" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

1 Answer

I attempted a repair

Thanks, I chatted with another expert and what you proposed is dead on. It was mentioned that I may have blown or "opened" a pico fuse. I have the service manual and have found the schematics and picture of the board but I dont know how to identify the pico fuses and am unsure how to test them with a meter. And as far as following the the trace to the next solder joint, do you mean the next spot of solder on the trace? This may not be the most advisable but could I scratch the trace and afix solder to that, my reason being I don't want to expand the scope of my problem to other components on the cb. so to sum up 1) identify pico fuse on schematic 2) testing fuse 3) creating jumper to pins Thanks for your help, Matt

Posted by mattmro on

  • mattmro Apr 10, 2008

    thanks! So if there are not any pico fuses that can be affected do you have a suggestion for a place to start testing on the board? I have a manual, if you could give me coordinates on the D-board I made a flikr page for the schematic, the chip I changed was the diagonal one, I hope the images are big enough, be sure to click on "all sizes"

    . P.S. I found a stray wire with a single 1 mm-ish wide female plug when putting the plugs back, its has a "D42" drawn on it, did I miss something?
    thanks again,



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Sonny Berry

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There is no pico fuses in that model that can be affected by the convergence circuits. You can scratch the trace and attach solder to it. Thats usually not the best way to do it as its susseptable to becoming dislodged. pico fuses are usually identified with FL (fusable Link) in the part location, just test them with an ohms meter for continuity in circuit.

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Apr 10, 2008

    How you trouble shoot that circuit is start at the Convergence IC. For example if your having trouble with the red vertical note which pins are the input and returns in the ic for the red vertical and locate each item in that circuit and test. resistors and Diodes have to be removed from circuit to tesy, transisitors should also be removed from circuit unless you have a transistor tester that will check them in circuit. And capacitors are really only able tp be properly tested in circuit withan ESR meter. Do you have any of these items that you can use to check the components. If so they will make quick work of finding the trouble. Its a tedious proceedure, but I always list all items in the circuit I am working on and check each item in turn you will locate the problem, Just dont rely on any reading you get from a component that is in circuit other than a fuse, unless you have a good transistor checker and an ESR meter then you can check everything quickly in circuit with the exception of resistors and diodes they need to be pulled out of circuit at least one leg .



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Check the two green pico fuses F9A04 and F9A05 on the "Center Board" if either of those two fuses are blown then convergence ICs are the reason its shutting down with a 22 error code.The pico fuses look just like resistors but dont have color bands and they will be bright green.

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Not sure.....Check e994 - its a pico fuse on the main board....If its blown the kit will most likely help. If its not blown the problem is elsewhere. 

Toshiba 57h82

Pico fuses could be through out the board... And the service manual, if it has a parts list, does give the board designation for all the picos on it...
Although these are good pictures they don't show a great deal of detail... But picture 1 & 2 at the far left, above where the two sets of blue wires are plugged in - looks like a pico piggy-backed on top of another pico... Sometimes it's easier than desoldering the original pico just to piggy back them in this fashion - but it's not a good practice.
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Did you remove one side of the resistors from circuit to check them? If you leave them in circuit a blown resistor will test good as it will read the resistance from the surrounding resistors. Usually its the 3.9 ohm resistors identified bu the bands orange,white ,gold and red. and also the 150 ohm identified by the bands brown, green, brown and gold

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replace the convergence amps and any blown resistors or pico fuse on the board. this is a common problem of rear projection sets this repair is not for the amateur have it done by a pro. the cost of the repair may be around $ 350.00. if you so choose to do the repair yourself, look for the two large ICs on a large heat sink (stk392-xxx).repalce them use heat sink compound on the new ICs and check the resistors around the ICs with a DVOM and check any pico fuses for open.

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Pico means small and these look like little small resistors, but don't have stripes like resistors, just part numbers. They should measure as a dead short and be in the immediate vicinity of the STK's
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Open Questions:


Has anyone had problems with connecting an 'HDMI to HDMI + SPDIF + RCA L / R Audio Extractor Converter (HDMI input,HDMI+ Audio output)' to a Panasonic PT-53TW53? I have a TiVo Premiere hooked up to my Panasonic PT-53TW53. I use the HDMI out, and RCA R+L outputs on the TiVo, and hook up to the digital in connections on the TV. The conversion of the HDMI out is via an HDMI to DVI cable. This has worked perfectly for years, but recently I wanted to disconnect the TiVo and replace with my Roku or Amazon Fire TV. Both have a single HDMI output. So I purchased an AGPtek HDMI to HDMI + SPDIF + RCA L / R Audio Extractor Converter (HDMI input, HDMI+ Audio output) box, hooking up the HDMI output from the Roku or Fire TV to the input on the extractor/converter, and simply disconnecting the HDMI to DVI and RCA R+L outputs from the TiVo, and plugging them into the outputs on the converter/extractor. The converter/extractor has a 3 position switch: PASS, 2CH audio, or 5.1CH (via and SPDIF or Toslink cable). I have had 2 of these converter/extractors, and with both the Roku and Fire TV I got the same results with both converter/extractors: With the switch on 2CH, which is where I understand I should get HDMI video and 2CH RCA audio, all I get is the RCA audio. No video. If I switch to PASS I get video with no audio. Of course on the 5.1 setting I get nothing, since the TV does not support SPDIF. Yet I see reviews all over Amazon indicating folks are using this converter/extractor for this very purpose, and it is working fine. I can't possibly imagine that it is some sort of incompatibility issue with the TV, since the TiVo has worked (and continues to) fine for years. Any ideas?

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