I have a True GDM -23 single door frig. Here is what I know:
The compressor is working
Of the 2 lines that enter into the top coil (inside the box) the small one is getting very cold even a bit frosty. But the insulation is off in this area so im not sure that is an issue?
The fan inside the box works
Th fan below works
I have bypassed the temp control valve inside the box by linking the 2 wires that go into the back. I did this to see if it was the temp control. It did nothing to make the box cool.
Today I removed the defrost timer? Round switch about the size of a quarter in diameter and bridged these wires.
It is currently running now and I am keeping an eye on it, the compressor is ON and everything is running as it should be.
I bypassed the defrost timer thinking if this is bad it should cool right? Well Im clearly NO A/C guy so Im hoping you may suggest something else. I have a multi meeter and I am quite handy so If you could suggest systematically checking other items that would be great.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you cant get the control warm enough there are a couple of possibilities. First:You recently had gas put in the system and the system wasn't fully evacuated and a new charge weighed in. The sensor is clamped to a specific spot on the coil suction line and It is not sensing the cooling so it will run and run and run. You will need to recharge the system and the balance will be restored. The second reason is the system is losing its charge and again the temperature control is not being satisfied. You will need to find the leak, repair it and recharge the system. Temperature controls are pretty simple, are calibrated at the factory and unless abused, pretty much last the lifetime of the box. It would be easier to replace it than calibrate it. Hope this helps and good luck.
The door bulb is a standard , I believe 32" t-12 newer units may be t-8, common bulb in stores. I've got an older gdm 23 and the bulb on top is a curved one , harder to find. Also these lights have ballasts that power them, they also can fail
sounds like the compressor is not running. The condenser fans are located at the compressor. The fans in the conditioned space are the evap fans. A refrig usually does not have any device controlling the evap fans, they are to run 24/7. Freezers have other controls. Start there and let me know if I can help further.
Are you talking about the fan inside the freezer? If yes, check the following items. The door has a switch that turns the lights off when the door closes, it also turns the fan off when you open the door. If it isn't working right the fan won't come on. There is also a round temperature senser on the coil inside the freezer called a "clickson" that keeps the fan from coming on until the coils are below 20 degrees, it may be bad. If you are low on freon, your coils may not be getting cold enough to trip the clickson. Feel of the small copper line going from the compressor to the coils on the outside of the freezer. It should be almost hot enough to burn your skin if you have enough freon. One other thing to check is the defrost timer. It is a box about 4 inches wide and 8 inches tall with a door on the front of it. Check the connections inside to be sure you are getting power through to the fan. Let me know how it turns out.
What do you mean the compressor was cleaned. It sounds to me you need to clean out the condenser coil. free it from all dust and debris. + Does the compressor work and what gas is in the system, does the condenser fan work. I'm assuming that when you say the fan works, it is the evaporator fan inside the cabinet working. You will have access the condenser fan either from the front or rear of the unit. The condenser unit is normally extracted from the rear. it should slide out but take care not to kink any of the pipework.