Question about Kitchen Ranges

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Surface element not working

Used voltmeter to test terminal ends on switch and limiter. Switch appears to be functioning properly. found a terminal on the limiter without power that shows power on a working burner. Replaced the limiter however the burner still does not work. Checked continuity on element, and it shows their is continuity. What am I missing?
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Posted by burchie on

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  • burchie Apr 09, 2008

    measurements are consistant with a working burner

  • burchie Apr 09, 2008

    Maybe I am not making the measurements correct. I get a measurement of 120 our of all 4 burner switches

  • burchie Apr 09, 2008

    with that test it appears that the element is bad. Where would the best place be to order a new element?

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Ginko

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Well if you tested voltage on switch (ensure it was correct, this is most common cause for this prob.), and on the limiter, and if they work on a different burner then you need to replace the burner element. The element may be defective even if it shows continuity. If you have a same watts haliant element give it a try replacing the not working one, if it works, it is the element.

Regards

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

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Are your measurements correct?

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

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Limiter gets sent power from the switch. Check for 240 volts coming out of the switch. Should be labeled h1 and h2.

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

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My Corriander model oven - stovetop works well, but the oven is completely "dead".


THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.


: rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Dec 07, 2016 | Fisher and Paykel Ovens

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Can you help with power windows?


What type of vehicle? Does the drivers window work?

May 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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I bought a 99 ford mustang without a radio installed yet there is an aftermarket radio in the back seat, the wipers are not working and i have checked the fuses they appear fine, i also pulled plug source...


Defective switch or wiring between switch and motor. The 1 wire that does have voltage is for the park function. I would pull the switch and test for voltages going into the switch, with ignition switch on, then turn the wiper switch on and see if you have any voltages coming out.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/tom_1788908372a4836f

Mar 30, 2015 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Direct spark ignition wont fire on bake or broil


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Apr 05, 2014 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

Replaced oven element still not heating up


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

Feb 15, 2014 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

MODEL WFG231LVQ0 OVEN AND BROILER WONT LITE BURNERS WORK


are you sure about that being the reason. I would check the infinite switch's

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

Sep 06, 2013 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

Without doing the minimal setting test to see if a time clock works how do you test a time clock with defrost termination the x terminal


8145-20 is 240Volt defrost timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#8045

You are testing the 8145-20 timer.
The timer dial should rotate continuously. Trippers on dial rotate around. When they reach the trip switch, the timer starts the defrost cycle.
Terminal 3 has power during defrost cycle.
Terminal 4 has no power during defrost cycle.
With 240Volt timer, terminals 1 and 2 and N and X test for live power to ground at all times.

The limit switch is connected to terminal X and to terminal N.
During the defrost cycle, the limit switch measures the pressure or temperature.
When pressure or temperature reaches the set point, the limit switch closes the circuit and this trips the solenoid inside timer. The solenoid turns off the timer relay, and the defrost cycle ends.
At this point the timer turns off the defrost, and sends power to the refrigeration.
Terminal 3 has no power during refrigeration cycle. (The opposite of defrost cycle).
Terminal 4 has power during refrigeration cycle.
Test these terminals for power to ground. One or the other should have power at all times, but not both.

If timer will not enter defrost cycle, make sure the X-3596 trippers are not worn down.
Disconnect the wire to terminal X and see if defrost cycle will start.
Test terminals 3 and 4 again and see if removing wire from X caused a change.

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Sep 14, 2011 | Paragon 8145-20 Defrost Timer

1 Answer

Samsung dryer Mod DV328AEW/XAA electric 220v dryer tumbles but does not heat.I've checked and power is 220v (working) There appears to be no burnt wiring, inside. and heating coils appear to be intact.


HI. Ok, this unit is equipped with four thermostats that monitor the cycling information and the heater box for optimal operations. All of the thermostats should be tested for proper functions. I suspect that the culprit will be the thermostats mounted on the heater box, but test all to isolate.

Here are all the thermostats that are to be tested, below:

1. Thermal fuse - This will be mounted on the side of the heater box(chamber). Test properly to confirm its functions.
2. Cycling Thermostat - This will be mounted on the blower housing.
3. Cycling thermostat(2) - mounted on the blower housing
4. Hi-limit thermostat - Mounted next to the thermal fuse on the heater chamber/box.


Concerning the element:

You cant always tell by looking. This device must be tested to confirm that it is indeed working as designed. It should show some signs of continuity if it is indeed functioning.

Proper testing technique for most thermostats and fuses:

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.


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1 Answer

Ge dde6500gbl electric dryer motor will not start


check your thermal fuse.this is on the heater housing.

Nov 18, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

2002 hyundai sonata headlights


GENERATOR OUTPUT LINE VOLTAGE DROP TEST

This test determines the condition of the wiring from the generator "B" terminal to the battery (+) terminal (including the fusible link). 1. Be sure to check the following before testing: a. Generator installation and wiring connections b. Generator drive belt tension c. Fusible link d. Abnormal noises from the generator while the engine is running. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Disconnect the generator output wire from the generator "B" terminal. Connect a DC test ammeter with a range of 0-100A in series between the "B" terminal and the disconnected output wire. (Connect the (+) lead of the ammeter to the "B" terminal. Connect the (-) lead of the ammeter to the disconnected output wire.) An inductive-type ammeter which enables measurements to be taken without disconnecting the generator output wire is recommended. Using this equipment will lessen the possibility of a voltage drop caused by a loose "B" terminal connection. 5. Connect a digital-type voltmeter between the generator "B" terminal and the battery (+) terminal. (Connect the (+) lead of the voltmeter to the "B" terminal. Connect the (-) lead of the voltmeter to the battery (+) cable.) 6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 7. Connect a tachometer or the scan tool. 8. Start the engine. 9. With the engine running at approx. 2500 rpm, turn the headlights and other lights on and off to adjust the generator load on the ammeter slightly above 30A. Limit: max. 0.3V When the generator output is high and the value displayed on the ammeter does not decrease to 30A, set the value to 40A. Read the value displayed on the voltmeter. In this case the limit becomes max. 0.4V. 10. If the value displayed on the voltmeter is still above the limit, a fault in the generator output wire may exist. Check the wiring between the generator "B" terminal and the battery (+) terminal (including fusible link). If a terminal is not sufficiently tight or if the harness has become discolored due to overheating, repair, then test again. 11. After the test, run the engine at idle. 12. Turn off all lights and turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 13. Disconnect the tachometer or the scan tool. 14. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 15. Disconnect the ammeter and voltmeter. 16. Connect the generator output wire to the generator "B" terminal. 17. Connect the negative battery cable.

Jun 05, 2008 | Hyundai Motor 2002 Sonata

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