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May not be serious,first with good channel playing move all controls and switches on the amp,Dead spots can occur on controls especially if they are rarely used.balance controls,tape monitor switches etc so work them all.If fault doesn't clear try headphones,switched sockets can cause problems.next swap input signal leads,left to right. and if still no good try swapping over speakers left to right.STILL no sound? its the amp.Time for tools and a test meter.You can look for blown fuses but its never a good idea to replace a blown fuse without testing the circuit first.may cause further damage and put up the repair cost
Hi Micah, What Amp and leads do you have? Your passive speaker will need to be plugged into your amp speaker outs , and you radio into your Amps Tuner/Radio input or Aux, but just depends what system you have. Check what inputs and outputs your amp has and what leads you need as a lot of systems need different setup and cables/leads.
I doubt it is a fuse, but it could be 100 different issues. This is not a DIY repair. If you would like to inquire about repairing your Marantz, please visit my website at audioserviceclinic.com. You may contact me there,
'Splitting' leads is never the best way to distribute a signal. The best solution is to use the parallel inputs of the Yamahas to chain them together: mixer to amp1, amp1 to amp2, amp 2 to the Cloud. You should only need to use one input on the Cloud to drive all the channels, using the input switches at the rear.
Let me know if you need any clarification on this.
Here's how it goes:
Speaker wires:
grey=right front pos.
grey/black=right front neg.
white=left front pos.
white/black=left front neg.
violet=right rear pos.
violet/black=right rear neg.
green=left rear pos.
green/black=left rear neg.
red=12 volt switched power source
yellow=12 volt constant power source (direct to battery)
black=chassis ground
orange/white=illumination (switched source,not to head light switch)
blue/white=amp turn on lead (to remote turn on lead of amp)
blue=auto antenna (switched power source)
brown=phone mute lead (to cell phone mute lead)
RCA connector leads:
grey lead:
red=right front
white=left front
black lead:
red=right rear/right rear subwoofer
white=left rear/left rear subwoofer
(connect to external amp)
red lead:
red=right aux input
white=left aux input
(connect to external unit)
green lead:
red=right dual zone output
white=left dual zone output
(connect to wireless head phones)
That should be all there is. on the yellow that goes direct to the battery you need to use an inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse.
your speakers are 1 ohm per voice coil, dual oice coil. your amp is no lower than 2 ohms stable mono.
the proper way to wire this so that you do not burn out the amp is to run the 2 vioce coils in series. run the positive lead from the amp into the positive lead of one of the voice coils, then run a jumper wire from the same voice coil's negative lead to the same speaker's 2nd voice coil's positive input. then run from the 2nd voice coil's negative back to the amplifier's negative speaker lead.
you will be running for each speaker/amplifier set: amp + to terminal set 1 +, terminal set 1 - to terminal set 2 +, then terminal set 2 - to amp -
Just connect your speaker leads to the input of the B65N (gray and gray/white pigtail leads), run the RCA cables to your amp (red=right) inputs, adjust the left and right level controls to match the amp input without distortion, and mount the unit.
from our experience rebuilding woofers once the lead wires get pulled too much or start to strain you have been running too much power into the woofer and making the cone move too far in and out.You need to cut the input signal from your preamp down and cut the volume down on the speaker input on you eon. We keep seeing too many of these amped speakers blown from too much signal.
On the the back of the unit there will be be a set of rca leads marked pre out run set of rca leads from these to the input connectors on your amp,you will also need to run a single wire from the wiring harness of head unit look for a wire marked remote (usually blue)run this to the terminal on amp marked remote ,you will also need a fused power cable run to battery +and a earth cable - screw this to metal part of chassis ,then run your speaker wires make sure + - symbols on speakers get connected to + - terminals for speakers on amp.
I'm purchasing 2 infinity 3-way passive crossovers on eBay with the same crossover freqs as my two overture 3's with blown amps. For 19.99 each, it's worth a try. Good luck to you!
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