Just moved into a home with this unit in the basement. Seemed to be working fine when we moved in, but now we hear a buzzer (similar to the ones at a basketball game) every 10 to 30 seconds. Previous owner lost manual so I can't troubleshoot very well.
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The reason this happened may be two fold. Either the hose is clogged or the length of hose is to long and then has to go up hill into the slop sink. The owner's Manual says the pump is rated for an 8 foot lift. However, what I have discovered is that rating, does not take friction loss in to account.
Try moving the unit closer to the sink and shorten the hose about a foot or two. Actually, a floor drain would be perfect, if you have one in your basement.
Hope this helped you ad thanks for choosing FixYa.
Well, we know the filter was playing a role in it.. Good job on cleaning that. Depending on where you have the humidity extraction level set, the fan could run all the time (It's direct drive. No belt). I suspect if you lower the humidity extraction level to 35%, you will see/hear water collecting in the bucket after about 30 minutes to an hour of operation.
Also, maintain at least 18" of clear air space around the entire unit.
In addition, if you're using this in a basement Ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees.
dehumidifiers do not work well between those temperatures Unless, you have a Low Temp Unit). This applies mainly to where the air
temperature at floor level is colder than at shoulder level in basement applications . Raising the unit up off the floor, onto a sturdy table, counter top, etc, that can handle the weight of the unit, plus a full tank of water, will usually resolve this problem.
Hope this helped you to further troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know.
dehums remove humidity from air inside unit the evaporator sits in drain pan , drain pan has some sort of line or tube witch leeds to the internal collection or bucket thats what you slide out and empty when its full , ther is some sort of sensor or float switch that lets you know wen full make sure unit is draining properly inernaly and full system is working properly
No, it's probably not shot. Just may need some adjustments. Below are the common causes of the problem you're having.
1. The humidity extraction level is set to HIGH. Lower it to 32 - 35%
2. Air intake filter is dirty or clogged and needs to be removed and cleaned.
3. Clear air obstruction. Maintain at least 12" of clear air space around the entire unit, while in operation.
4. The ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees F. This is particularly true in basement applications. Raise the unit up off the floor, onto a sturdy table, cabinet, etc, that will hold the weight of the unit, plus a full tank of water. The air temp at chest level is warmer than floor level in a basement. Unless, your dehumidifier is what's called a Low Temperature Model (designed for basements) it may be contributing to the problem. Although, based on all the odds, numbers 1 & 2 above, are going to be the culprit.
Hope this helped you to troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.
It's 7 years old and has severed you well. Repairs on a unit that old, cold cost as much as a new unit. That's, if the parts are still available for a 7 year old dehumidifier.
As far as advice is concerned ... I agree with you. Since you're using it primarily in a basement. Shop for a low temperature unit. That's one that will function well, between 40 & 60 degrees F. I say this, because the ambient air temperature at floor level in a basement, can be 5 to 8 degrees cooler than the air temperature at chest level. Regular dehumidifiers don't function well at the temperatures I referenced above.
The other features you want to look at is energy efficiency and the square footage or cubic footage it's rated to handle. I would suggest, no matter what you buy, if an extended warranty is available ...buy it. It could be money well spent. Then, only the Routine Maintenance is up to you. Which means, don't misplace your owner's Manual.
In your case you have a refrigerant leak and the unit is low on charge...unfortunately till you find the leak and fix it, then recharge the unit, you will have more money into the old one then to buy a new one...
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you understand why and what you can do with a dehumidifier that ices up.
A dehumidifier heats and cools the air to remove moisture. Most are like a small air cond. The Condenser coil is right in front of the evap.coil. So the compressor may not be coming on. Does it sound the same as before? It may be low on freon. You will have to get in there and listen and feel the lines at or near the compressor, Learn how to get down in there to the compressor. Run it for 10 Mins. unplug it, open it up, and feel the lines. Some lines should be or can be HOT to the touch. Some should be cool. The smaller the line the hotter it should be, and the compressor should be warm (to hot) to the touch. repost for more info.
Unless you live in a dry environment or place the unit in a hermetically sealed room, it probably will not turn off. As the air dries within the room, more moisture comes in with the air. As long as the air outside of the room is more humid than the room this will be true.
An electric dehumidifier includes a refrigeration cycle that is very similar to a window AC units and refrigerators. They cool the air in the basement to condense and collect water and remove humidity, heat the air as a required consequence of the refrigeration cycle and dump it back to your basement.
Two sources of humidity in basements include warm outside air that naturally cools due to below grade earth contact and water passing from the ground though the floors and walls and evaporating into the basement. Dehumidifiers do most of the work in the summer when higher temperatures outside enable air to hold more water content.
In the winter, cooler outside air contains less moisture by weight eventhough it may be raining and the relative humidity in basement will be less because the air is warmed relative to the outside. The lower moisture content in the winter also absorbs the water passing through the walls and floor.
From an energy perspective, you may want the humidity set NOT below 50%. This will keep humidity below the level mold desires, but prevents the dehumidifier from doing more work and eating more energy than needed. A cheap battery powered temp/humidy meter left in your basement will help. Sources that include the "mold triangle" (temperature, water & food) often separate fact from expensive hype.
If the dehumidifier doesn't keep up, consider adding a moisture barrier to the basement walls and floors such as Dry-lock and floor paints to ****** moisture entry. Moisture barriers act very similar with water as insulation does with heat. They don't eliminate the need for a dehumidifier, but they reduce the work they do and energy they eat.