Hobart LXIH drains improperly during cycle. I have to add water from the sink during the middle of the cycle every once in a while for it to finish. E5 flashes. Also E7 flashing and the rinse aid doesnt spin. I was thinking it is in the control board but am having problems getting the part(run around) and dont really want to spend a lot of money on the wrong part. Any suggestions?

Hi,

you would need to get a special code/programming manual from the manufacturer or a company that services a dishwasher of your brand. Because they usually ch arge for their services, they might not be willing to email you this manual, but I would still try.

Thank you.

http://www.fixya.com/search/p110729-hobart_24_in_lxih_3_built_in_dishwasher/e5

could be the drain valve has lost its internal seal . The machine may be accepting a charge of water during the fill cycle, and loosing it while the pump is running

test this steps and fix it. GOd bless you

Drain Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain pump might be defective or might have some debris in it. This is a common problem.


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Circulation Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the circulation pump sound, it's likely that the circulation pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the circulation pump will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable.


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Drain Impeller

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain impeller might be broken, or there might be debris in the pump. Generally, to gain access to the pump the top of the pump housing will have to be removed.


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Pump and Motor Assembly

If the dishwasher is loud the motor bearings, drain impeller or wash impeller might have worn out. All three of these components are part of the pump and motor assembly. It may be possible to replace one of the impellers, but the motor bearings cannot be repaired. In that case the pump and motor assembly will need to be replaced.


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Wash Impeller

The wash impeller is a small, plastic blade. The motor spins the impeller forcing water through the spray arms to clean the dishes. If one or more blades has broken off of the impeller the dishwasher is loud. The impeller can also scrape against the pump housing if it is damaged, warped or bent.


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Circulation and Drain Pump Motor

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the motor sound, it's likely that the circulation and drain pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the motor will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable.


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Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled water valve. When it is new, the water inlet valve is very quiet. Over time, the diaphragm inside the valve deteriorates and deforms. This deformation interacts with the water rushing in and can cause a loud vibration, buzzing, squealing or other noises. If the dishwasher is loud during the filling cycle, replacing the water inlet valve may solve the problem.

Use a commercial deliming agent (like Lime Away or LSR). Remove the rack from the dishwasher and close the door. Press Off to power down the machine. Next press and hold Wash (Delime) while pressing ON. Delime should show in the display. The unit will fill with water and then flash Add and Delime. Open the door and add the deliming agent according to the directions. (The sump holds about 3 gallons of water.) Close the door and press Wash (Delime). The machine will start the wash mode for 5 minutes and then do two rinse and drain cycles. Delime symbol will flash while this takes place. When finished, the power to the control will be turned off. Check the interior of the machine for lime deposits. If needed, repeat the delime cycle. If the delime program is interrupted before it is completed, then start the delime process from the beginning.

The manuals and other documents are available to registered users of the Hobart site here: https://feg.hobartcorp.com/CookieAuth.dll?GetLogon?curl=Z2FresourcecenterZ2Fdefault.aspx&reason=0&formdir=2 . The direct link is: hobart.co.kr/install_pdf/040.pdf .

The spec sheet is available here: http://www.hobartcorp.com/products/warewashing/undercounters/lxi-undercounter/ .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

How long does it stay in the wash cycle? Indefinitely? Does the display continuously show "WASH"?. If it stays in the wash cycle indefinitely (i.e. continuously shows "WASH" for significantly beyond approx. 3 minutes), it's probably a control board malfunction. If it continues to wash after the "WASH" indicator goes out, it could be a shorted wash motor relay on the relay board or a fauly control board.

If the internal rinse water booster heater doesn't reach it's programmed setpoint temperature in time, the dishwasher will run an extended wash cycle to give the booster heater more time to finish heating the rinse water. If this is what's happening, the wash cycle would last approximately 3 minutes, then it would rinse regardless of whether the booster heater has finished heating or not.

The booster temperature thermistor may be bad, giving a false booster temperature reading, causing an extended wash cycle as described above. The booster heater elements or contactor may be bad, preventing the booster heater from heating and reaching proper temperature, also causing the same extended wash cycle to give the booster more time to heat.

sounds like the wash pipe is no good , i've seen this before

Are you refering to the water pressure gauge near the top of the unit?

If so, during the final rinse/sanitize cycle the gauge should read between 15 and 25 psi.( flow pressure ) and is usually controlled by a water pressure regulator piped into your plumbing near the machine. Once the cycle has finished, it's normal to see the gauge register much higher pressure readings ( static pressure ) This is the water pressure being supplied to your building. Pressures of 60psi+ are not uncommon. What, I think, you're describing is normal.

All the best.

in this case e5 means too much water in the machine when it is supposed to rinse.

these machines have either a solenoid opperated drain valve or a drain pump.

could be a kinked or pluged drain hose. check this by removing the drain hose (probably red) from the drain it attaches to (probably under a sink)

put the hose in the sink or bucket and wait for it to drain, drain should be fairly powerful (hold the hose and be careful the water is hot)

if the hose is not kinked and little or no water comes out you have likley have an obstructed drain valve or a broken pump or solenoid.

at this point i would call in the pros, or you can try to fix it yourself then curse and wish you had called the pros.

good luck

Error Code E3 relates to a problem with the fill. Specifically that the water level has not been recognized at the middle water sensor. This can be caused by a problem with the drain system as you describe, or by low water pressure to the machine (should be 15-25psi flow), or bad wire connection to this middle sensor.
Check for proper water pressure first (should be a gauge on the machine) during the fill. Then check / repair drain as needed. These will probably eliminate the problem