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You should definately bridge them. Firstly, lay the 2 speakers face down next to each other. Note the connections +- +-. The first + will go to the amplifier. The next terminal(-) will be connected to the next speaker(+). Take the last(-) and connect to amplifier. Please note that your amplifier has a bridge section which is normally the first + and the last- on the two channels. Connect your woofers on the bridge.
Pump the brakes! You need to know the RMS power rating of the sub you are powering. Dont exceed the RMS power rating of the sub by more than 25%. If you see a peak power rating on either the sub or the amp, ignor it, means nothing. Always compare RMS ratings. Example: a Sony 12" Xplod sub, boasting 1200 watts, will only handle, 350 watts RMS, so the amp you choose to power the sub should be 350 watts RMS as well, and should not exceed more than 25% of the RMS power handling (487.5 watts). Bottom line, know your RMS numbers, not Peak.
165 watts x 2 @ 4ohms and 200-230 [email protected] 2 ohms or 400-460 watts bridged into a 4 ohm mono load is what the amp will actually do. A single 12 inch sub or a pair of 10 inch subs or 12s would be great
Give that new sub a chance to "break in". New speakers require a few hours of use before the voice coil(s) and spider break in and began operating at their best performance. Is the box within the operating specs of the sub? Is this a ported box; if so you will here some turbulance type noise from the port. What type of distortion are you hearing? Alternator noise(dentist drill like sound) would only be noticable through a sub at lower volumes due to the frequency response of a sub. Is the amps lowpass crossover turned on?
The sub outputs are simply lowpass filtered preamp outputs for use with a subwoofer amplifier. They supply a lowpass filtered signal for a subamp or 'powered subwoofer" like a bazooka tube. Test your "basstube" for 12 volt input power and make sure the "sub" setting on the radio is turned up too.