My GE Fridge, Model GSH25JFTA BB is getting VERY warm during defrost. Everything thaws, then re-freezes. The ice in the ice bin melts & re-freezes into an almost solid chunk, ice cream pools in the carton & re-freezes, etc. I replaced the thermistor, no change. The defroster is getting warm enough that's it's 'rippled' the seal on the sides of the back panel! After lots of reading, I'm guessing I need a new mother board-?? Any advice? And how do I check this? Thank you!
Good day,
Your machine should have a limit thermostat as well as the thermister. It may payto change it first before the motherboard.
It looks like this, mounted on the top of the coil.
If that fails, and the machine goes back to normal cooling until the next defrost cycle, I can think of nothing but the motherboard as the culprit.
Here's the value of the Thermister. It must be tested in a water/ice solution at 32 degrees.
Thermister for ge refrigerators
WR55X10025
in icewater 16,600 ohms + - 5%
At the price, I would change the one on the top of the coil and and on the bottom center.
Unfortunately, all the components in this machine interact to such a degree that one can test and get the wrong answer anyway.
Once the thermistors are changed, only testing over a period of time will tell if changing the motherboard is necessary.
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Look at the drawing below. #240 is the defrost thermostat and it clips near the top of the coils of the freezer. It is about the diameter of a quarter and has 2 wires coming out of it. Its job is to reach a certain temperature and then cut the power to the defrost heater. To check it you will need for it to be cold and then use an ohm meter to read ohms through the 2 wires coming from it while it is disconnected from the circuit. Hold it in your hand until you feel it click and then you should not be able to get a reading through it. A normal failure of this part is exactly opposite of what you are describing but it is the control that allows power to the heater.
What you are describing does sound more like the main board going bad. Sometimes when it cycles on to cool you can hear a clicking from the board but not always. I also have found some loose solder joints on the relays on that board. Be aware if your going to look at it the unit needs to be unplugged as 110 volts will be present.
Here are the part numbers.
Defrost thermostat is WR50X10068
The board is WR55X10942
Testimonial: "Thanks for the very helpful (& FAST!) response & photo! I was incorrect in my original posting - the thermostat has been replaced (not thermistor), which didn't change anything. I'll check solder joints on the mother board as you mentioned. Thank you SO much!"
Hello,
I am looking to be see how many thermistors are in your unit unless Jackfrost gets it on before I do.
Thanks
I cannot really get the scan as clear as I want. If you open the control panel in the fridge side you should be able to find the drawing for your unit. It should be inside the panel where the controls are. On this particular unit for example there are 3 thermistors and they connect to the motherboard in the connector with the arrow drawn to it. Take a thermistor in the freezer there is one at the lower left corner and I think one about halfway up in the wall on the side 
and drop it in some ice water. Look at your drawing to find the pins on YOUR drawing. Reading ohms across the 2 thermistor pins it should read between 7 and 10k ohms. You will only need to test the 2 in the freezer.
I agree with that statement.
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and drop it in some ice water. Look at your drawing to find the pins on YOUR drawing. Reading ohms across the 2 thermistor pins it should read between 7 and 10k ohms. You will only need to test the 2 in the freezer.
Thank you! I see now I made a mistake... the thermostat has been replaced (to no avail), NOT the thermistor. How do I check the thermistor; or do you suspect the mother board is the problem?
Thank you again for taking the time to clearly explain this! Armed with your info, I'll get on the (hopeful) repair today!! Now... I'm assuming that if either of these are 'bad', I can simply replace them? And if they're 'good', I need to get a new board, right? (assuming solder joints all check out OK)
OK, it's been several months, and we've been using the fridge side only, but I'm really stumped. Here's a quick run-down:
Checked thermistor
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