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There is an air duct that connects the fridge to the freezer. When the opposite door is closed air is trapped and forced out the other door pushing it open.
The door seals contain a magnetic strip that hold the door to the fridge, these magnetic strips have lost their strength, to test this use a shhet of paper. Open the door, place the sheet of paper across where the door closes, shut the door, then slide the paper out. If the paper comes out without any resistance then the door seal needs to be replaced.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp. The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.
You can try and adjust the front legs of the frig raising the front about one or two inches. This will but more pressure on the door seal.
Sometimes if you slam the frig door the freezer door will try and open. Tilting the frig back will help solve this problem.
Look for the return vent near the bottom probably behind the crisper. You'll have to remove it to see the vent. There may be an adjustable flap in to to adjust the meat keeper area. Make sure it's open.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp .. I don't know what he was doing with the putty unless he was stopping up the vent which won't work because you have to have the air circulation for the fridge section to work. The fridge temp control may be the problem.
the door pops open because freezer and frig. are connected together via duct. air pressure builds when you swing ref door closed. apply a small amount of vasoline to the surface of the hinge side of both gaskets. this will aid in door closure. also the unit may be not level
try to adjust hinges and check the door gaskets for pinching. Also I have seen that if the fridge is slightly pitched forward and not slightly towards the back gravity sometimes this causes the problem you describe.
open the frig door put youer hand over the vent comeing into the frig there should be cold air blowing with freezer door shut if not then opent the freezer door if you get cold air out of the vent now you have a defrost problem if you still have no cold air the damper door on that vent is not opening it will need to be replaced
I just worked on a FF801W which is supposed to be very similar. The defrost heater in mine was of the glass tube type and located under the evaporator. There was a bimetal thermostat clipped to the top of the evaporator and a thermal fuse (sealed in a clear plastic tube) nearby. The connections were behind a little plastic cover (2 screws) in the back wall just above the evaporator.
Mine was iced up like yours and I had to defrost it with a hair dryer. All the defrosting parts in the freezer compartment turned out to work so I now suspect the defrost timer (down by the compressor). I've marked it and I'm waiting to see if it's turning.
This indicates that you do not have good airflow and return airflow between your freezer and refrigerator sections. That is why the pressure from closing one door is causing the other one to pop open.
Check the drain tube on the back of the machine to make sure it is not clogged or blocked with frozen water inside. Also check any return air flow vents inside the unit for clear ice.
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