I am looking for a amcor spiral water pipe with connector please help

To add water to an Amcor MF8000E, locate the water tank compartment on the unit, usually at the back or side, and follow the manufacturer's instructions to fill it with water.

I started seeds on a pet warmer pad that I got at Runnings. It is just a hard plastic rectangle that stays just the right temperature. For pipe a heat tape product is the choice, look for a self regulating type like Easy Heat freeze free brand. Basically you run it along with the pipe and attach it with tape or zip ties. Maybe spiral it around a big pipe. Insulation around the whole works is a good finishing touch. For chicken water my dad used to just have a 100 Watt light bulb shining down on it, and that worked in South Dakota so probably will work anywhere. The water was inside the coop, so a lot warmer than outside. A loop of heat tape around the bottom of a metal water pan would probably work too. The light bulb also gave light to the chickens to keep them laying more eggs.

Unless, AMCOR has recently made a dramatic change to your model, you don't add water to the unit. Your model acts as an air conditioner and a dehumidifier, all at the same time. It evaporates the water/humidity in the room's air and exhaust it out the vent hose. There is a drain pan, that collects any un-evaporated water, but that only needs to be drained if it's full. Which rarely occurs, unless the humidity is extremely high for a long periods of time..

Hope this helped you. Please let me know. Thanks.

Sorry it's taken so long for someone to respond to your question. The reason may be, that it's not very clear to us, what exactly you're trying to do. I think it's the part about "the water coming from the continuous exit pipe" and why you would want to run it into the dehumidifier tank?

So, if you could explain the specifics a little better, we may can help you.

Thanks

There should be a plastic pan that the water drips in too.

1st You must know that you can attach the heat tape by spiral wrapping, or by straight run (in- line with the pipe); held temporarily with a few pieces of tape. Of course you will need to apply an insulating wrap (in either case).
The straight run gives the least heat per foot but covers more pipe. The tighter (closer) the spiral wrap of the heat tape loops, the more heat per foot but the shorter the coverage. If the pipe is 1/2" or 3/4" DIAM. then a straight run is sufficient. If 1" to 1 1/4" then a very wide spiral. If 1 1/2 to 2" then a closer loop spiral. In no case should the loops touch each other nor be closer than 3/4" to each other. And avoid having the heat tape cross itself at valves, elbows, etc. PLease note that this is all based on winter temps of 0 degree F. or above and using normal 1" THICK WRAP INSULATION. If you have temps down to -30 or so, then give minimum 2" thick insulation.
Good Luck Macgivor.

I had the same problem. The insulation on the coper line was loose and the pipe was exposed. The water was condensation , not water from the drain.

Try to extend the pipe using a pvc pipe or, some sort of pipe.use alluminum tape that you can get at your local hardwhare store to seal the crack in the pipe that you use to extend..

Your parts can be found at amazon, click here and take a look: Finally charging for our multi device world. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

used yell.com & found a local refrigeration engineer who will look at the problem
Eric L