I need a wiring diagram for a Kenmore 110.86872100. replacing the thermostat and the heater element, don't want to cross wires. Can you help?

F44 indicates a heater relay fault; the heater cannot be turned on. First check the heating element or the wiring for the element. If there is a problem with these, replace the part(s). If the heating element and wiring are good, then you need to replace the entire electronic control board. The relay is on that board.

Unfortunately, the control board is no longer made. The parts diagram is available here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3ky9drdxaj-000583/kenmore-elite-11028082700-washer-parts . The heating element is shown as part 15 on the motor, basket and tub parts diagram. The electronic control board is part 1 on the control panel parts diagram.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

YOU MAY NEED TO REPLACE THE HEATER ELEMENT.

There is usually a thermal breaker in the electrical circuit. You may need to reset it or replace it.

Unplug the dryer. Remove the control panel on the top. Look inside for a sheet of paper with the wiring diagram or service instructions. If you don't find one there, look on the back cover panel. (Every US appliance maker provides this, but I've never looked inside a Samsung dryer so I don't know about their practice.)

If you find the wiring diagram, you can use it to identify the wires going to the thermostats and heating elements. Now you can use an ohmmeter to check which part is open; the wiring colors marked on the diagram will let you find the terminals in the control panel going to the thermostats and heaters so you don't have to take everything apart for diagnosis. Note: in a typical dryer, if you get no heat on Medium, but you get heat on the Low setting, you already know the Medium heat element is burned out. High heat uses both elements.

If you don't find a wiring diagram, you will have to look for the thermostats and heater terminals. Usually there is a thermostat mounted on the door frame at or near the top of the opening to the drum. There will be a second thermostat mounted on the top of the heater pan or box. Usually these are supposed to be closed (you get continuity) when they are closed. The heaters should show some resistance, but should not be open.

If you find an open circuit from the control panel, it doesn't mean the part itself is bad; it could be a problem with the wiring terminal connecting the part. This is often obvious when you see it; the insulation at the terminal will show signs of overheating.

Residential water heaters USUALLY follow same diagram unless water heater is wired for other purpose. Multiple diagrams on instructions show available options. Take photo of wiring before removing wires on any electrical device.
Upper element.
Black wire from top of heater connects to #1 top left screw.
Red wire from top connects to #3 top right screw.
Blue wire from upper element connects to #4 middle screw on right side
Red wire from lower element connects to #4 middle screw on right side
Yellow wire from upper element connects to #2 lower left screw
Black wire from lower thermostat connects to #4 lower right screw
Upper element: Yellow and Blue wires connect to either screw
Lower element: Red wire from top connects to either screw
Lower thermostat: Black wire from top connects to top screw
Short wire between lower thermostat and lower element

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-wiring-w-numbe.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

The new thermostat (I assume you must be changing one) will have several possible scenarios. If you have two elements and thermostats you look for the diagram that says two elements working NON-SIMULTANEOUSLY. In other words the top element heats until the thermostat is satisfied and then, and only then the power is sent to the bottom thermostat. The wiring diagram will have the numbers and colors of the wires for everything in the heater except your feed wires. Those colors don't really matter much. You will have three conductors--two hot wires and (likely) a bare ground wire.

Hope this helps.

Mike

the orange wire is for the timer if you do not connect it then the cycles wont work.the timed cycle will but not the other cycles.

Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.