I have an old 2 piece bench grinder that was wor...

there is a nut and bolt that holds the little shelf below the grinding wheel. Loosen it and adjust the shelf or rest to within approximate ly1/8 inch of wheel for safety.

It sounds like the motor is burnt out. If the case can be opened, unplug it and check around for signs of too much heat, especially at any wire connections. You may be able to resolder or replace a wire to fix it

Lets do this, remove the bean hopper, and make sure there are no beans in the burr chamber. Then looking down at the collar with the numbers back up screw if there is one on it. Now if memory serves me right clockwise is coarse and counter is fine. Look down in the burr chamber, notice the nut in the middle, turn it with your fingers that will move the bottom burr, if burr turns freely we will move on if not plug in grinder and let it grind out remaining beans. With beans gone unplug grinder, then turn collar towards fine until you cannot go no more, now try turning nut it will be hard if not impossible to move, turn collar towards coarse until you can barely move bottom burr with fingers, you will hear and feel the burrs touching, that will be our bottom setting. Now pick a spot on the grinder you can use the small notch in the middle, count out 16 notches towards coarse and turn collar to that point. Use the notches around the collar not the ones on the top next to the numbers. Your grind should be almost perfect, depending on blend and machine you might have to adjust 1 notch to the left or right after testing.

Make your own wrench out of a piece of wood stock,with 2 screws or nails spaced out to 2 opposing holes in the retaining ring/nut.HarborFreight sells a 'spanning wrench' online .

I had the same problem with a Northern Tools bench grinder. These are made in China and parts are hard to come by. I had enough room after removing the old broken on/off switch to install a single pole 15 amp light switch like you use in your home. I simply installed it horizontally and then put the switch cover on. It works perfectly. If you do not have enough room then look for any 15 amp or larger switch that will fit in the housing. Any on/off switch will work. You could even mount the switch on the bench in a switch housing and run the wires from the grinder to the switch and back if need be. Just be safe and make sure there are no exposed wires. As a last resort you could remove the switch connect the wires, eliminating the switch and use a plug in wall switch such as this.

the two copper tabs under the on off switch are to break the power source.connect incoming power to one of these(black) then a short piece of wire from the other tab under switch to one of the three tabs under plate that is marked hot or l1 is probably #2 but you need to be sure. the white is the nuetral or l2 which is most likely #3 and the green is the ground most likely #4 I would definately look online for a wiring diagram to be sure if they are not marked with L1 L2 and GND

It sounds like the pulley is not adjusted correctly. This is causing the belt to move on you. Carefully inspect and adjust the pulley so it is square and flat. Use a straight edge.

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I cleaned all the wiring connectors etc and used a 4-way extension cord with an i/o switch and thermal/arc breaker surge protector thingy. I had a piece of thick cable with a molded three prong plug which I had removed from a dead paper shredder (I think??) and connected the ground to the case (previously not connected) the black to the black and white to the white. I taped the connections and plugged the test cable into the extension thingy with its switch off and plugged it into the wall outlet. Then, with the grinder switch on, I gingerly switched on the extension thingy and the grinder (sans all moving parts) ie just the motor case and spindle (held securely in the B&D workmate) and viola(!) it worked fine and built up to very fast. I switched off the grinder switch and the motor slowed, taking an age to come to rest.
Then, I fitted a grinding wheel on the left hand thread end, tightened everything and retested, using the grinder switch to start it and it spun really fast.
Soooo, I guess the secure ground is an essential feature of a capacitor induction motor. I checked some old furnace motors that were "maturing" in the basement and they had no capacitor but only 2 wires...
I am now trying to remember which parts came off last and put it all back together. I plan to test it each time I put a part back...just in case. I hate it when you fix something on the bench and when rebuilt, it won't work...don't ask about the electric starter on the snowblower..not a happy puppy!
Please, pretty please and then some, do tell me if my "fix" is wrong and I could risk all kinds of nastiness.
Thanks,
Jenni.

Bench grinders are perfect for sharpening cutters, bits, blades and hand tools. Any piece that needs smoothing, shaping, or polishing can be done at the bench grinder. Straight grinders or angle grinders are portable, handheld tools with wheels that range from 4 to 9 inches. They are the best grinders for working on pieces that may be too large to fit at a bench.