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Shower/tub unit does not fit tight at back of unit and if you step in to tub it skeeks

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Ned White

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You have a fiberglass tub with tub surround that clamps together and gets screwed in at the top and sides? Did you shim the feet on the floor? Or just rely on the clips that hold it against the wall? If you can still access to the floor, shim everything up, tight, glue in place, then caulk the tub joints, don't caulk it unless you shim it because I don't think it'll work good. you can try it. But,,,,,, hope this helps.

Posted on May 22, 2010

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Water leak thru valve when turn to shower


a lot of shower diverters do this..you may need a bigger seal on the diverter..if you can remove the spout assembly from the tub(with the diverter valve in it) and take it all to the hardware store.. see if they have a different seal/diverter that has a snugger fit but still falls to drain the shower head line out..that will slow that leakage..the spout is on a pipe and unscrews counter clockwise(normally)unless its a single valve unit..with the wide ring around the back..then that calls for a plumber..

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you have to replace diverter....if its in the tub spout unscrew and go to lowes or plumbing supply and match up style and replace...use pipe dope and screw back on tight...good luck

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1 Answer

I would like information on steps to remove bathtub and install pre fab shower


This is a fairly big job but can be done if you have the right tools and a little bit of time....... Depending on the existing tub material (cast iron,fiberglass, tin type ). You will want to remove faucet trim(handles,spout) first. Then the over flow plate on tub,as well as drain in the bottom (this will require a drain removal wrench or pair of needle nose pliers and screw driver, and some strong arms).After this is done remove tub unit , if the unit is a cast iron unit a good sledge hammer will work as you will need to break into halves to remove unless your trying to save tub and provided you can then get the unit out the door in one piece...... Caution, protect body and eyes in this process, flying pieces of cast iron can do some damage to body......cutting tub will take several blades and take quite a while to do......The next step depends on the location of faucet and if you are replacing the tub faucet or going to use the existing faucet.... I would recommend a new faucet because if this is going to be a shower only you may want to raise the faucets so they will be easy to operate without having to bend..Depending on the model pre-fab (two piece,three piece) unit you wish to install you may need to prep the drain to make sure it will fit your new installation. Let me explain... most tubs have the drain located at the right/left end of tub and the showers are located in the center of the unit thus leaving you to relocate the drain. If house is on slab it means a little jack hammering the concrete to provide this, if the floor is a conventional it means re-routing the drain to the center.......once all this is accomplished you are ready to install unit base,connecting drain. Next you need to get the faucet located to the right height or be able to get to the back side of the shower and remove the existing faucets and replace them after you install surround.....turn off water supply before removing faucet..... A sturdy surround will make for a less involved support system around shower area.Be sure to leave enough space between studs for faucet attachment. Sounds like a lot of work and it is but after its done you will have a great bath shower..... hope this was helpful.... sorry this only dealt with the plumbing aspects of the job......

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1 Answer

On new Moen shower faucet, when I turn on faucet, water drips from shower also.


The faucet was installed upside down.
The shower riser pipe in the wall is to short( the distance between the faucet and shower head).
One of the biggest problems is if your shower faucet was installed with Pex pipe to the tub spout. Pex pipe will restrict the flow and force the water back up and out of the shower head.
The tub spout must be piped with at least 1/2 brass pipe nipples and fittings, or 5/8 OD. copper pipe and fittings.
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1 Answer

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Just make sure that the over flow is tight with gasket in place. And all fitting's tight behind wall goin gto tub overflow. If it is check out out next step

1-This is a common issue that comes up. Make sure that the shower valve plate is sealed and tight to tub wall. Reason why I ask that is when you take a shower water will find a way out, down the plate or if tile at the point of where it meet's tub. And will look totally like it's the overflow every time.

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I have a large whirlpool tub in MB on 1st floor. When letting water out of tub it is coming up in a large walk-in shower. The shower is draining fine...need answer! thanks


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1 Answer

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Yes, I believe this unit uses a cartridge right? They do fit a little tight due to the small washers on the back side of the cartridge. If this is the one I'm thinking of, there are two leg like appendenges that come off the back and fit into small holes at the back of the manifold or what some call mixing valve housing.

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1 Answer

Shower spout


There is a threaded stem that passes through the spout and attaches to the white plastic diveter valve. If you are starting from scratch (everything apart), you can put it back together in this order:
1) Place the white plastic diverter inside the spout. the circular side with the black round washer should face the the wall side of the shower (mating up against the threads for the water pipe).
2) The stem can now be inserted from the top and into the notched section of the white plastic diverter valve. The threaded end of the stem shoud be outside of the spout (from the top side).
3) A round black washer fits over the threads. It should sit right where the threads end. Dont push it all the way on to the unthreaded portion of the stem.
4) Screw the threaded knob onto the threads.

Should be ready to install now. Including the spout itself, there are 5 parts and are configured in this order from top to bottom.
1) Female threaded knob (the knob for operating the spout)
2) Threaded stem (threads on top)
3) Round black washer
4) Spout
5) Whit plastic diverter valve.

Mine leaks when I turn on the shower, thus reducing shower pressure. I looks like a poor design to me. The stem is not a tight fit in the spout and this allows the diverter to "wobble". The washer on the diverter valve does not seat tightly and allows water to leak out the tub spout when showering. I would replace the spout.

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1 Answer

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Some shower heads require a rubber washer that would fit in the opening in the shower head. That may be all you need and would be the simplest fix. Check that first.
Sounds like you need some teflon tape available at any hardware store. The teflon tape should be wrapped around the pipe threads with 2 or 3 wraps and then screw the shower head on to the pipe. If the leak is in the wall, remove the shower head pipe from the wall pipe elbow and apply 2 or 3 wraps of teflon tape to the shower head pipe threads and reinstall to the elbow in the wall. You may need a pipe wrench if the pipe is real tight. Good Luck

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