New compressor installed- wont cool

leaking what? I hope the compressor isn't leaking water, compressors will sweat but excessive sweating usually points to an overcharged system. it's unlikely it's leaking refrigerant AT the compressor, try bubbles to locate leak if you don't have leak detector

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Dryer is a partof a sealed system it is a copper tube on the hi side of your compressor it looks like a sawsage tipicaly 1/4 inch tube onone side 1/8 tube on otherside sweated togeether gas inside if you need dryer you need new compressor!

Recover R12 then flush system. Change drier or receiver tank depending what vehicle you have. Change expansion valve or orifice tube again depending what vehicle you have. Install the R134a Hi and Low service ports and put the correct amount of compressor oil for R134a freon into compressor. Pull unit into a vacume for about 15min. and leave it set for another 15 or 20min. to make sure it stays in a vacume and there are no leaks. If it holds a vacume charge the unit with the correct amount of R134a and run unit and check that it operates and cools properly. If all is good install the service port caps and your done.

Tell him to remove the strainer, remove cap tube, blow out system with nitrogen, install new strainer/ filter drier, install new cap tube and charge, you should be as good as new. Hope this helps.

compressor not on most likely.listen for a low hum inside or low down close to the floor in front of it.If no hum its not on.depending on age you can install a hardstart for it and get more life out of it.

Hi, it's possible,your motor overlay relay has switch off motor, if your days are hot, or if room temp get high, that could happened,unplug ref. let motor cool down for about an hour, if compressor is running, but not cooling, it's possible you got a freon leak, normally ref have a condensate line, that passes through, front of door, that usually get rusted and leak,normally we by-pass it, now if there's a leak, you will have to repair leak first, you will have to change filter drier, vacuum and recharge. no you won't be able to buy freon and tap it up, same princple like vehicle a/c, but, different application, could also be an electrical problem, check motor overload, situated on compressor terminal, remove compressor terminal cover, and you will see overload relay, it's round, has one wire connected to compressor terminal and another connected to wiring harness. also, you can check compressor for short circuit, remove 3 wires from compressor terminal, place one tester lead on copper tubing coming from compressor and next tester lead, place on compressor terminal one by one, if you hear a beep (continuity) from any one of those terminals, compressor windings are faulty, replace compressor, or could just be hot summer months, let it cool down, but remember, remove plug from receptacle. or you are victim of low voltage, low voltages are more frequent in summer months, it could damage compressor winding, or compressor overload relay, let it cool down, and retry it. let me know what happened, before you attempt any repairs. and i can tell you what exactly what the problem are. good luck.

Sounds like you have a clogged cap tube. Yes they should both be sweating, I would expect your low side pressure to be lower though unless it is real hot in the camper. You can replace the tube but make sure what goes in is the same diameter and length because that is all engineered for proper metering into the evaporator.

The stop leak probably stopped up your cap tube system and the filter drier.You can try by replacing the filter drier, vacuum the system to 500 microns and recharge.The automotive 134a is the same as any other 134a.

Service and Repair
CAUTION: When the A/C compressor is inoperative due to internal causes, clean the refrigerant system to remove any debris or contaminants to prevent damage to the replacement A/C compressor.

Replacement of the suction accumulator/drier is necessary when the A/C compressor is replaced. The A/C evaporator core orifice should be replaced whenever the A/C compressor is replaced for lack of performance, or when there is debris in the system.

REMOVAL

1. Recover the A/C refrigerant system following the recommended procedure. Observe all safety precautions.
2. Drain and save the radiator coolant.
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
4. Disconnect and remove the constant control relay module.
5. Disconnect and remove the fan and the shroud assembly.
6. Disconnect the upper and the lower radiator hoses.
7. Remove the radiator.
8. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch wire at the clutch field coil connector on the A/C compressor.
9. Remove the top two A/C compressor mounting bolts.
10. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
11. From underneath the vehicle, loosen and remove the accessory drive belt.
12. Disconnect the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) wire connector.
13. Remove the A/C muffler supporting strap bolt from the subframe.
14. Disconnect the A/C manifold and tube from the inlet tube of the A/C condenser core and the outlet tube of the suction accumulator/drier using the spring lock coupling tool or equivalent. CAUTION: Immediately install protective caps on open lines.
15. Ensure the A/C compressor is properly supported as the bolts are removed. Remove the bottom two A/C compressor mounting bolts.
16. Remove the A/C compressor and the A/C manifold and tube assemblies from the vehicle as a unit. Remove the assembly from the bottom, using care not to scrape it against the the A/C condenser core.
17. Remove the A/C manifold and tube from the A/C compressor.
18. If the old A/C compressor is to be replaced with a new one, remove the A/C clutch and the field coil assembly.

INSTALLATION

1. Service the replacement A/C compressor with the correct amount of clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.
2. Lubricate the new O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and position them in the O-ring seal grooves of the A/C manifold and tube. Use only the O-ring seals specified for the type of A/C manifold and tube being used. NOTE: When replacing an A/C compressor, use the original manifold bolt from the removed A/C compressor to attach A/C manifold and tube to new A/C compressor. Do not use the shipping cap bolts.
3. Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M2G350-A2 to the threads of the manifold retaining bolt.
4. Position the A/C manifold and tube with the O-ring seals to the A/C compressor. Install the retaining bolt and tighten to 17-23 Nm (12.5-17.0 ft lb) .

1. Install the A/C compressor and the A/C manifold and tube onto the A/C compressor mounting bracket.

1. Using new O-ring seals lubricated with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, connect the A/C manifold and tube to the inlet tube of the A/C condenser core.
2. Using new O-ring seals lubricated with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, connect the A/C manifold and tube to the outlet tube of the suction accumulator/drier.
3. Install the muffler support onto the subframe.
4. Connect the HO2S wire connector.
5. Install the accessory drive belt.
6. Lower the vehicle to the floor and perform the following operations from the top.
7. Install the radiator.
8. Connect the radiator hoses and tighten the hose clamps.
9. Install the fan and the shroud assembly.
10. Install and connect the constant control relay module connector.
11. Connect the battery ground cable. NOTE: On vehicles equipped with Electronic Engine Control (EEC) , when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.
12. Fill the radiator with the reserved coolant.
13. Leak-test, evacuate, and charge the A/C system following the recommended procedures.
14. Check the A/C system for proper operation.

The True TSSU-60-16 uses an oversized (134A) refrigeration system with air flow directed at the pans.... if the capillary tube is plugged it will NOT cool at all.. most of the time a restriction (plug) is at the drier where the capillary tube goes into it.. as it is smallest passage in the system...hope it helps