Bugaboo brake pad is not aligned with wheel

check wheel bearing condition and adjustment on the right wheel. Check that the pads and caliper is free on the disc rotor. Check wheel alignment. Check tyre size and tyre pressure . Check for free movement of rear brakes as a dragging rear brake will affect the steering. Check the rear end alignment as an out of align rear axle will affect the front end steering.

This is a common problem with the bugaboo's The brakes use a toothed brake shoe to fit in to a toothed inner rim, What happens is one shoe seems to alway fit into the toothed rim but while the other side always hits the top of the teeth causing the shoes and connecting rod to twist. Eventually you get the problem you describe. The brakes shoes are interconnected by an aluminum rod. The shoes have two splines that fit into slots in the rod and a phillips screw to lock them in. First try taking the back wheels off and getting a strong man to hold the shoe that doest lock while pulling the one that does back in to alignment. This quite often works. If the twist is to much I remove one shoe cut off the splines turn the shoe to align with the other shoe then drill a new hole for the locking screw.

DID YOU ROTATE THE BRAKE PISTON BACK IN THE BORE AND INSTALL BRAKE PADS WHERE THE BUTTONS ON THE BACK SIDE OF BRAKE PADS ENGAGE WITH THE ALIGNMENT CUT OUTS AFTER CALIPER BEEN INSTALLED ONTO THE ANCHOR PLATE.SEE IF BRAKE PADS NOT INSTALL RIGHT IT WILL CAUSE ABS LIGHT PROBLEMS.BRAKES WILL DRAG SLOW DOWN PUT DRAG ON THE WHEELS..

The bugaboo brake lever can lockup. Check the screw nut at the bottom end of the cable. If you can wind that down to take some tension off the cable the lever will them release. If there is no adjustment try lifting the lever up higher (as to put the brake on harder) then push the white release button at the same time. The break lever uses a set of ratchet teeth that must move up slightly to release.

You can't. Bugaboo only sell a complete chassis as a spare part! Take both brake pad units off and got to your local plastic welder. He can build up the plastic on the worn one then shape it using the other side as a guide.

You can have it fixed @ www.buggypitstop.co.uk thay fix bugaboo's and sell spare parts.

Sounds like you accurately diagnosed the problem. You didn't mention aany grinding noise so it sounds like a sticking caliper, Remove wheel, spray piston with disc brake cleaner.

Also inspect pads for wear and rotor for scratches, grooves. If pads thin, or rotors damaged, find a mechanic.

If cleaner doesn't free the piston, you should, again, get mechanic to check it out.

Break squeal can be stopped by applying shims or anti-squeal compound to the pads.

There are two answers to this problem:

1) The suspension on the front swivel wheels on the Cameleon are adjustable. As the child gets older (and heavier), his/her weight might effect the handling of the stroller. It is recommended that the suspension be adjusted. To do this, move the suspension adjustment forward, as it increases its strength.

2) There has been significant conversation about this problem with the Cameleon's veering if the chassis was purchased before 2007. If so, contact bugaboo via bugaboo.com. Bugaboo will ask you for your serial number, etc. to research whether it is something that is obviously defective.

If you have any further questions, or need help contacting the company, don't hesitate to contact us anytime!

[email protected]

StrollerInfo

The same thing happened to mine. I had a good look at what was going on and decided that the length of brake chord is ever so slightly too short. Even with the brake cable adjuster as far "down" as it can go, the chord brings the brake shoe up too close to the wheel making the "raspberry noise" on the left. I got my brand new bugaboo suspiciously cheap and am now wondering whether perhaps it was a factory second because of the short chord.
Anyway, after a bit of tinkering the problem has been almost eradicated, it now only makes the rude noise on the tightest of turns.
1) First, ensure the brake cable adjuster is as far down as possible by rotating it clockwise until you can rotate no further. It can be a bit fiddly so try taking the right big wheel off to get better access to the adjuster.
If the adjuster was not at the bottom before then put the wheel back on and give it another go - it might now work!
2) if not, turn the chassis upside down and identify the thinner cross-bar, just above the "big wheel" axle. You should be able to see 2 screws, one at either end of the bar.
Unscrew the screw at the opposite end of the bar to the brake cable. Now, GENTLY pull the brake at the same end( the green nobbly bit)upwards, towards you whilst re-tightening the screw you've just removed. Only release the little bit of tension on the brakes once the screw is fully tightened.
This step might seem a bit pointless, as it appears that you unscrew a screw, then do it straight back up. Fair point but that tiny bit of flex in the brake/crossbar assembly made all the difference to ours!
I do hope this helps - I really think there is a bit of a design fault here as ideally the adjuster should be set in the middle of the range so that adjustments can be made either side of the neutral. Mine is right on the lower limit and hence has no further room for adjustment. Unless of course it is, as I say, a factory second!! Sorry if I've gone all technical.
Good luck!