Question about Krups ProAroma 453-71 Coffee Maker
My Krups Proaroma 453 was working beautifully. Then one day, I turned it on and - nothing. All of the other things work - I'm able to set the time, program the time I want it to automatically turn off, etc. It just won't brew! Every minute or so it clicks like it's trying to brew, but again - nothing. Please help. I'm sure it's something I did but I can't figure out what.
The culprit is probably the thermal fuse. It's under the bottom cover, and you have to have Torx security bits (the ones with the holes in the middle) to remove the three screws holding it in place. Sadly, the thermal fuse is not resettable. Once it's tripped, it's dead. If you have this problem, forget about getting Krups or their lame service agent, smallappliance.com, to repair it. Both contacts I had with Krups were unsatisfactory. The factory/customer service folks say that there are no parts available and to buy a new coffee pot. Great solution. You can damn well believe it won't be a Krups. Or is it ****? An otherwise perfectly functioning unit gets sent to the landfill because the folks at Krups can't be troubled to find the part number. Idiots. For your info, there are thermal interrupters made by several manufacturers. The trip temperature on the breaker is 318 degrees, C. Something in the neighborhood of 200 degrees C would probably work, but would have to be soldered in. If you are comfortable with doing that, it's a solution.
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
As noted by others the thermal fuse is the likely problem. I found a generic replacement thermal fuse at Radio Shack that is rated at 229 degrees C. and soldered in place. Although it is lower than the original 318 degree fuse it is still way above the operating temperature of the heater element. Unit works fine now.
Posted on May 18, 2009
The thermal switch on the heater element of ours 6+ year old unit tripped completely a year ago. It is supposed to open at 300F then close again when the temp drops below a point. Unfortunately the disk can fatigue.
I found that the thermal disk had turned inside out. I took the thermal switch apart, popped the disk back, and put it back together. It worked fine until the last week or so when coffee started brewing slow, then the disk tripped again. This time I think the disk is too far gone, and I am reluctant to bypass it.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
Had the same type of problem with a hair dryer once. A thermal interrupter- I called it a planned obsolescence gizmo- died. I bypassed it with a silver wire soldered in and the hair dryer ran well until another part died years later!! Sailorb
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
Just fixed mine! Turns out one of the connectors to the thermal fuse had corroded almost completely away.
Found the coffee machine in a free pile but when I turned it on to do some cleaning runs on it, the clock showed up fine (display's a little screwy, but all I want is the coffee anyways) and the red indicator light went on when the selector was turned to "On", but then.... nada. No noises, no heat, no brew.
So, taking the advice guven above about the thermal fuse being the most likely culprit, I opened her up (instructions below cause I know opening devices up for the first time, especially if you're a novice like me always hands you a little snaffu, like a spring that decides it'd like to try flying off to some nether-reaches of your garage), removed any corrosion and rust from the connector on the fuse (I had to hit it with a Dremel tool cause mine was super bad, but sandpaper, wire brush, even soda should do it, just want to make sure connectors are nice and shiny again), replaced the connector (simple flat connector like for a speaker, any connector kit will have them) and voila! works like, well a used coffee machine really.. but it works!
Incidentally, I found I didn't need a special security bit (star with a hole in it) to get the screws undone.
I just used a regular star bit of the appropriate size. The screw heads are deep enough that you should be able to get enough traction even with the little peg there in the middle. Only 2 screws on the bottom. However, they are in deep holes so finding a way to get that bit down far enough might be an issue if your bit is a short one like mine. Luckily I have a long regular magnetic holder for my bits and that was skinny enough to get down in there. After the screws, use flathead screwdriver to push plastic tab at front of machine, then slide bottom piece towards front (back tabs (2) slide out).
Sorry if I'm resurrecting an old post here, but finding information on fixing outdated things on the internet ain't all that easy, especially when most manufacturers' websites usually present to users that "No, no, we've never even heard of such a product! But hey, here's a bunch of our new products you can buy instead!". -ah, capitalism....
If you want it, parts diagram for a similar Krups coffee maker, (didn't find one for the 467, but a lot of the parts are similar). They do have the parts list for the 467, just no diagram. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/krups-fme411-coffee-maker-proaroma-parts-c-144838_144839_144928.html
ok, hope this helps someone.
Posted on Jan 07, 2018
For what it\'s worth, my own strategy for fixing these units was to scrounge eBay for old ones, and use them as spare parts boxes. They were cheap, of course, and I managed to keep the 452/453 units working for a decade. About 4 months ago (2/2014), I finally caved and bought another coffee maker. The primary advantage of the Krups was decent firmware in the maker... lots of options... plate/brew temperature, auto-off interval, auto-off interval recycling/reset on power cycle, carafe pre-heat, easy to use. Nice work on the firmware, actually. It also appears that the replacement model maintained a fair amount of that, except you can\'t reset the auto-off timer with a power cycle anymore and they\'ve economized out many of the old buttons with menu selections that keep cost down at the expense of complexity, but the newer units are a pretty good bang for the buck for those who don\'t want to follow the Keurig path. So my model recommendation for the moment is the Krups FME2. (Since I plan to keep this running another decade, I bought an open box special for $12 as a spare parts box and have bought a total of 4 for an office, main house, second home, and the spare. So far, so good. Old gold filters do not fit the new funnel, but these makers are cheap and if you liked the 452/3 models, after a short learning curve, you\'ll like this one.
Still has the lame thermal fuse and will not let your start the unit with no water in the reservoir, so maxing out the autooff is the best way to prolong the ON period while maintaining leave-the-house safety. The best coffee comes out of the machine in the first 15 minutes, anyway, so after that it\'s all about caffeine, not flavor.
Posted on Jun 13, 2014
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