Hello, with all 4 wheels off the ground,engine running and in gear only 3 wheels are turning. The right front does not. is this normal?

redux 1:
no engine size told, gas we now know GAS word but there are 4.
when did the truck LAST run perfect.? , last week, year, or decade?
is fuel bad and old 1gallon hints at old dead truck bring revived;, there is a story here.
does this truck have the IMMO option and key is bad? causing IMMO cut fuel in 3 seconds. Immobilizer? LAMP not happy????


2.5L, 3.9L & 5.9L , 4.7L Engine 3 transmissions used.
code 42RE; Trans. code 46RE and 45RFE

to fix any car the driveline there needs to be known and told.

1: check all fuses. if one blows and makes the network dead, (PCI dodge) modules can not communicate.
2; scan the PCm it will tell you 2 things. cluster can't communicate to PCM or TCM/transmission gross errors.


well cluster PRNDL errors means 2 things, cluster can not talk to PCM (network dead)_ or TCM'/ transmission errors, told with scan tool clear as day but nobody is looking or using lame $17 code reader not a real scan tool.

the network (PCI) in this car connect 10 module computer brains, in fact ALL of them and must not fail this network.

use a real scan tool and find what what is failing in minutes
a 2008 or newer tool is best, OBD2 (USA) real scan tool
beg /borrowed , rented, buy or loaners.

that is correct the battery needs to be good or 12v or rested at 12.6vdc or never below 10vdc. sure a battery charger may get the voltage to 12vdc, if lucky and battery cells not shorter, a 10amp charger is best at least
and charged for 4 to 8 hours first.

I'm assuming you're talking about the transfer case popping out of 2 high or even 4 high. It could be that the transfer case needs a chain or gears replaced and is slipping on the cogs/gears. In 4 low it takes less pressure/strain to move the vehicle so it doesn't slip. I would put the trans. AND transfer case in neutral, with the FRONT wheels blocked, and NOT running, jack at least one rear wheel off of the ground, and try turning the rear drive shaft back and forth to feel the free play (free play in the transfer case, not the rear end). Excessive free play should tell you that the drive chain/gears are very warn and could be slipping. That would be a start.

No it means that it is working properly. The problem is further in . Nissan produced a series of vehicles that used a limited slip diff in the front axle as standard and I suspect that you are trying to make the diff action work. IN 4wd with 3 wheels on the ground the 4th wheel would normally turn in the diff in the side gears but if it is difficult to turn I am thinking that you have a LSD in the front.

This is normal, as most 4x4s do not have a center differential. This will cause the wheels to try and spin at the same speed front to rear and as the front wheels will cover more ground than the rear wheels in a turn, they will drag a little bit. I highly do not recommend using 4 wheel drive on pavement due to this, as it will eventually damage the front differential and will drastically accelerate tire wear.

set the front wheels in straight ahead position by driving vechicle a short distance on a flat surface. raise and support the vechicle safely on jack stands.place a drain pan below the steering gear. disconnect negative battery cable.disconnect fluid lines.cap the openings.mark the relationship of the pitman arm to the pitman shaft.remove pitman shaft nut and then remove the pitman arm from the pitman shaft using puller J - 6632. remove the steering gear to frame bolts and remove the gear assembly. TO INSTALL align the flat of the flexible coupling with the flat on the shaft push the coupling onto the shaft until the wormshaft bottoms against the end of the shaft.install the pinch bolt. make sure the bolt passes through the shaft undercut. tighten the pinch bolt to 75 ft lbs. place the steering gear into position guiding the coupling bolts into the proper holes in the shaft flange. install the steering gear to frame bolts and torque to 66 ft lbs.install the coupling flange nuts and washers. make sure the coupling alignment pins are centered in the flange slots. tighten the nuts to 20 ft lbs. maintain a coupling to flang dimension of 0.250 - 0.375 inches. install the pitman arm.install the hoses. you are done except bleeding power steering system. BLEEDING POWER STEERING. fill the the power steering pump reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid remain undisturbed for at least 2 minutes. start the engine and run it for only about 2 seconds.add fluid as necessary. keep doing this procedure until fluid level stop dropping. then raise the front of vechicle so the front wheels are off the ground.set the parking brake and block both rear wheels front and rear. manual transmission should be in neutral. automatic transmission should be in park. start the engine and run it at approximately 1500 rpm. turn the wheels off the ground to the right and left lightly, contacting the stops.add fluid as necessary. lower the vechicle and turn the wheels right and left on the ground.check the level and refill as necessary. if the fluid is extremely foamy, let the vechicle stand for a few minutes.with the engine off and repeat the procedure. if fluid looks foamy. once all done.dont drive vechicle on highway until normal steering is obtain.

First, start checking the fuses an there is also an electrial activaced switch at the transmission or transfer case that may be bad.

95-96
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4auto, 4low.

First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.
Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels may or may not turn. Do not be alarmed if they don't turn. This is normal for your vehicle.
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle. Place your foot firmly on the brakes, place the transmission in NEUTRAL, engage 4low, then place the vehicle back in park. DO NOT ENGAGE ANY GEAR!! The lurch as the transmission engages could cause the vehicle to lurch and potentially fall off the jack stands.**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. This could be due to a mechanical problem with the diff, or a failure of the center axle disconnect to engage the passenger side axle shaft. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.

Troubleshooting the CAD on a 95-96 is a bit more involved than I want to get into here, and the problems can vary widely. This'll get you started.


97-01 4-door and 96-00 Sports
Your control knob should say 4auto, 4high, 4low.
First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.

Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


'01-'03 Sport and '01-'05 Sport Trac
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4high, 4low

The transfer case in these trucks functions essentially like the 1st-gens' 13-54 t-case. (i.e. it uses a lockup collar engaged by the transfer case shift motor) The troubleshooting procedure is very similar, but you don't need to worry about hubs or center-axle disconnects engaging.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. The shift motor could be falsely reading an incorrect t-case position, or it could be a mechanical issue with the case itself. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If it does, the system should be properly engaged. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground and take it for a test drive. If the wheels do NOT spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front differential or axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


Keep us updated.

This is either the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) solenoid or the vacuum lines / check valve / reservoir for the vacuum system

This is a block diagram of the IWE vacuum system


There is a TSB on the IWE solenoid for the 04 to early build 06 MY F-150s ( right click save as )
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf

This is for the early build where water can get into the IWE vacuum system, causing weak vacuum at the IWE, and the spring is part engaging.

With the engine running, pull the IWE vacuum line ( not the vent line ) and measure vacuum, to make sure it is being applied. This is done with the Mode selector switch in 2WD and the engine must be running ( in park, take safety precautions, chock wheels, parking brake, etc )

Until you can get it fixed, pull the vacuum lines on the IWE ( make sure it is the vacuum line, not the vent line that runs into the engine compartment, and just hangs up there ).
This is so the IWE gear is not being ground down while driving it. The front axle is engaged when you do this, so MPG will suffer, but the truck is just pushing a dead front axle, the transfer case is not turning the front shaft. This is just to try to minimize further damage to the IWE gear ( which can cause a need to replace the IWEs ).

Drive Axle Joints or Wheel Bearings?

The firing order is 1342. The cylinders are numbered from left to right 1234. Depending on wether it is a 16 valve engine, the distributor cap lead number one position is at the front on the left, if its a normal 8 valve engine , the distributor cap lead number one is at the front pointing straight at the front. So, moving anti clockwise, the next lead will be number 3, then 4 , then 2.

SERVICE PROCEDURE: THE POWER STEERING FLUID REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE IS A TWO-STAGE PROCESS: FIRST, FLUSHING THE OLD FLUID FROM THE SYSTEM WITH NEW FLUID; AND SECOND, BLEEDING THE SYSTEM TO REMOVE ANY TRAPPED AIR. THE FOLLOWING TWO SEQUENCES OUTLINE THE STEPS IN EACH PROCEDURE.

FLUSHING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM 1. RAISE THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE OFF THE GROUND UNTIL THE WHEELS ARE FREE TO TURN.

2. REMOVE THE FLUID RETURN LINE AT THE PUMP RESERVOIR INLET CONNECTOR.

3. PLUG THE INLET CONNECTOR PORT ON THE PUMP RESERVOIR.

4. POSITION THE FLUID RETURN LINE TOWARD A LARGE CONTAINER IN ORDER TO CATCH THE DRAINING FLUID.

5. WHILE A SECOND PERSON FILLS THE RESERVOIR WITH NEW LOW TEMPERATURE CLIMATE SERVICE FLUID, START AND RUN THE ENGINE AT IDLE.

6. TURN THE STEERING WHEEL FROM STOP TO STOP.

NOTICE: DO NOT HOLD THE WHEEL AGAINST STOPS WHILE FLUSHING THE SYSTEM. HOLDING STEERING WHEEL AGAINST WHEEL STOPS WILL CAUSE HIGH SYSTEM PRESSURE, OVERHEATING, AND DAMAGE TO THE PUMP AND/OR GEAR. 7. CONTINUE DRAINING UNTIL ALL OF THE OLD FLUID IS CLEARED FROM THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM. ADDITION OF APPROXIMATELY 1 QUART OF NEW FLUID WILL BE REQUIRED TO FLUSH SYSTEM.

8. UNPLUG PUMP RESERVOIR INLET AND RECONNECT RETURN LINE.

9. TURN ENGINE OFF, AND FILL RESERVOIR TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK.

10. CONTINUE WITH FOLLOWING PROCEDURE "BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM".

BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM AFTER REPLACING THE FLUID OR SERVICING THE POWER STEERING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM, YOU MUST BLEED AIR FROM THE SYSTEM. AIR IN THE SYSTEM PREVENTS AN ACCURATE FLUID LEVEL READING, CAUSES PUMP CAVITATION NOISE AND OVER TIME COULD DAMAGE THE PUMP. TO BLEED THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:

1. BEGIN WITH THE ENGINE OFF, FRONT WHEELS OFF THE GROUND, AND WHEELS TURNED ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT.

2. ADD LOW TEMPERATURE CLIMATE SERVICE FLUID TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK ON THE FLUID LEVEL INDICATOR.

3. BLEED THE SYSTEM BY TURNING THE WHEELS FROM SIDE TO SIDE WITHOUT HITTING STOPS.

IMPORTANT: THIS MAY REQUIRE TURNING THE WHEELS FROM SIDE TO SIDE TWENTY TIMES. ON SYSTEMS WITH LONG RETURN LINES OR FLUID COOLERS, TURNING STEERING WHEEL LOCK-TO-LOCK FORTY TIMES MAY BE REQUIRED. KEEP THE FLUID LEVEL AT THE "FULL COLD" MARK. FLUID WITH AIR IN IT HAS A LIGHT TAN APPEARANCE. THIS AIR MUST BE ELIMINATED FROM THE FLUID BEFORE NORMAL STEERING ACTION CAN BE OBTAINED. 4. START THE ENGINE. WITH THE ENGINE IDLING, RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL. IF NECESSARY, ADD FLUID TO BRING THE LEVEL TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK.

5. RETURN THE WHEELS TO THE CENTER POSITION. LOWER FRONT WHEELS TO THE GROUND. CONTINUE RUNNING THE ENGINE FOR TWO OR THREE MINUTES.

6. TEST THE VEHICLE TO BE SURE THE STEERING FUNCTIONS NORMALLY AND IS FREE FROM NOISE.

IMPORTANT: INSPECT FOR FLUID LEAKAGE AT CONNECTION POINTS ALONG THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM. 7. RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL AS DESCRIBED IN STEPS 3 AND 4 EXCEPT THAT THE FLUID LEVEL SHOULD NOW BE UP TO THE "FULL HOT" MARK AFTER THE SYSTEM HAS STABILIZED AT ITS NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE.

FIGURES: 1 ATTACHMENT

Figure 1

GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION.

Hope this may help:

Regards,
VOTIT