STOP the insanity....that's what you're saying if you encounter the F11 and/or fDL error codes on your washer. If you're not there yet, you will be soon....
The dreaded F11 and/or fDL codes - been there done ALL that!! Our Whirlpool DUET washer is just over 5 years. We experienced our first F11 code 6 months ago (warranty just expired what else is new?). When it first happened, I thought nothing of it - hit the cancel button and the machine reset itself. Then it happened again and again and again. Each time it happened it was more challenging to reset it. I searched for the fix on line - I should have done my research before we purchased the washer.
I was able to determine the error was stemming from the CCU board. Order a new one at over $300.00 and have the same thing happen again - I don't think so. We tried EVERYTHING suggested on multiple websites.....unplugging the washer, hitting the right upper side, checking wires, wiggling the wires, wedging things to improve contacts, soldering, re-soldering, Vaseline, changed relays....anything and everything was a temporary fix. Contact Whirlpool directly? Tried that too, they apparently don't recognize there is an issue with F11 fDL errors, "not a commonly called in concern". Really?? We started searching washers to purchase....I couldn't bare spending $$$ for another washer, but we are a busy active family with 4 kids - what are our options? Then one night after searching the websites for one last desperate attempt at salvaging our washer, I followed through on a link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Whirlpool-Duet-Kenmore-HE3T-CCU-Repair-For-F11-FDL-Code_W0QQitemZ230397337074QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a4c05df2
email: [email protected]
Now, I'm the biggest sceptic in the world and the most frugal consumer - really I am. I am posting my testament to this service because I've been there - frustrated, disappointed, angry. I am so pleased with the service Ed provided - from answering all my questions, to the superb job he did on the CCU. You can review all the comments posted by all his other pleased customers on eBay. I had to stand by my washer for the first 6 loads - just in case the beep beep beeps started. To my astonishment, amazement, and surprise - it never happened!! In my opinion, this is the only true fix for your F11/Fdl error!!
I never imagined in my wildest dreams ever telling anyone how happy I am to be doing my laundry again, but I really am!!
The symptoms are pretty specific for the F11 code on the Whirlpool Duet front loaders and clones (Kenmore Elite and KitchenAid):
If the washer starts to fill but the drum NEVER moves, your MCU is bad
If the washer runs through most of a cycle and then gives the F11 before (or during) a rinse or spin cycle, then you have the CCU relay problem.
If you are interested in having me repair your CCU for you, I offer that service on eBay (website coming soon). My username there is "jhagner"
Thanks
SOURCE: I have a F11 failure. Initially stopped after 2
"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.
Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:
- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.
In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.
NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.*(&(*
1,162 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×