Holmes "16 fan needs to be lubricated. Where do you add oil

Checking Oil

Check oil level immediately after fill- ing the reservoir. To check oil, bend an ordinary pipe cleaner into a 1/2" long hook and dip it into the oil reser- voir. If oil touches the end of the pipe cleaner, the fan has ample oil. If it does not touch, add SAE 10 non-detergent oil slowly until it touches the pipe cleaner.

Your Original Hunter's unique lubricating system

The bearings are submerged in a bath of oil. The oil moves up a spiral groove in the shaft, lubricating all bearing surfaces as the fan operates. This Lubrication System does not normally "use up" or require the addition of extra oil once the oil reservoir has been filled to the correct level. This unique lubrication system is one reason your Original Hunter Ceiling Fan will last a lifetime. It is highly unlikely that you will ever need to add oil to your Original fan once it is installed. Should you move your fan to another location, it is a good idea to check the oil reservoir. Hunter has developed an accessory 'Original Relocation Kit' that includes all mounting hardware and a fresh tube of oil for this reason. The model number is 22360.
CAUTION: DO NOT TURN FAN ON UNTIL LUBRICATION HAS BEEN ADDED. TO OPERATE THE FAN WITHOUT OIL OR WITH LOW OIL WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY



Adding oil

Your fan has been shipped without
oil in the motor. A 1-ounce tube of
high grade SAE 10 non-detergent oil
is packaged in the sack parts. All the
oil in the tube must be put into the
fan. Cut the tip off the tube and place the tube into the oil hole. To avoid overflowing during filling, allow oil to gravity flow about one minute to fill the oil reservoir. (It may be necessary to puncture the tube to allow air in.)

Just a thought
If you find a junker fan try the switch off of it. Quite often they will work. Sometimes different makes the switches are interchangeable.

What you are describing is one of the three resiliant rubber mounting pads and not a bearing. They are rubber to minimize vibration and the subsequent harmonic noise that would be generated had they been made of metal. Go to a local HVAC contractor and ask if you can peruse their discarded furnaces tossed out back for a replacement rubber. They, though not identical, all should be adaptable to fit your needs.

You say your fan won't rotate on 'low'...so the assumption is that the worn rubber is letting the fan blade gently rest on the side of the blower housing. But then the assumption is that the fan is capable of starting on a higher speed due to the increase hp rating of high speed. If that's the case, there should be a loud scraping, rattling noise coming from the blower during operation. If this is not the case, maybe consider trying to find the oil holes in the motor when you have the blower assembly out to repair the rubber. The motor may be 'oilable' or 'permanently lubricated' as evidenced by the appearance of two plugs near the top of the motor on the end bells....or not. The plugs will be usually yellow plastic or gray aluminum plugs and are removed with needle nose pliers.

I'm thinking you may have dry bearings within the motor itself. They are a permeable bronze bearing that rests in a 'wick' of felt saturated by lightweight oil. The oil literally permeates the bronze to maintain lubrication on the metal shaft as it rotates inside the bronze. When dry, sometimes the low starting torque of the PSC motor utilized in furnaces cannot start on low but will start on high. Then they fail altogether if the dry bearings are not lubricated.

this is special operation, you must have skill for to do this. You can use jering with oil and lubricate the house motor is more easy and more efective. Unless the motor is faulty. In that case will be replace it.
God bless you

This one the best brands on the market that I have ever owned.
If the fan motor will not turn on or hums and/or turns slowly more than likely its a lubrication problem.

1. Unplug the fan from the wall remove the 516 screws to the cage

2. Try turning the fan blade by hand if it is tough to turn more than likely it's a lubrication problem

3. You will have two oil holes one in the front one in the back spray WD-40 into these holes, turn the fan blade if it starts to free it up apply more WD-40 and keep turning the blade add more WD-40 until the blade turns freely. Especially in the rear oil hole because this is an oiled bushing that you are adding oil to. Once the fan is turning freely replace the front cage with all the screws plug the fan and I hope this solves your problem. You may add 3 in 1 oil or some other very light lubricating oil periodically.

I hope this solves your problem Mike

Contact Holmes at: http://www.holmesproducts.com/warranty.aspx

This is a do-it-yourself help site that is in no way part of Holmes products.

John

Hi,
Please check all cables connections for loose in fan. The noise may coming out from wear down bearing.
Regards, Jay

Hello, there is a fill pluf on the passenger side of rear end to check the fluid level and to add fluid. here is some help on this.

Remove the rear axle fill plug.

Inspect the lubricant level. Specification
The lubricant level should be between 0-10 mm (0-0.4 in) below the fill plug opening.

If the level is low, add lubricant until the level is even with the bottom edge of the fill plug opening

This page has 18 pdf user manuals they are only 1-2 pages each open them in adobe reader till you find the one you need wish i could be more help
http://www.holmesproducts.com/Manuals.aspx