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Anonymous Posted on Apr 27, 2010

Mounting motherboards without brass or nylon standoffs

Hello all,
My question is about stand offs and mounting a motherboard to a desk top case. I have an ASUS case (tower) which has 4 ''Bow tie'' cut outs that are raised (pulled up from) the case plane, each tapped for a mother board mounting screw. My Gigaboard pcb lines up with them and will mount fine.

The problem is, I then will not be using the four brass stand offs that are also screwed into the case for motherboard mounting (they are of equal height to the bow ties but will be covered by the motherboard when it's mounted. So is it ok to mount the motherboard direct to the 4 bow ties and skip the brass interface?

FYI, I can't put a thin brass washer on top of the raised bow ties because the ports/ hook ups won't allign with the various cutouts in the face plate. Any advice would be much appreciated.

1 Answer

Dave King

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  • Master 1,606 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 28, 2010
Dave King
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Usually the brass stand offs are used by the slots and ports to provide a bit more solid support. The problem when mounting directly is that you don't want anything on the board touching the metal that isn't supposed to. Usually they will make mounting pads around the holes. These keep the board from shorting out. Without seeing the case all I can tell you is to see if the pads are the only thing that are touching. If you are not sure then just get some electricians tape and put a piece over the case mounts. Thats is faster and works as well as using the proper brown insulating washers. Just check first and tape and you'll be fine.

Testimonial: "Thanks KingDWS, My board does have metal ring pads on the back and those will be the only points of contact. The tape is a great idea! Thanks much"

  • Dave King
    Dave King Apr 28, 2010

    The tape has saved my **** a few times. It's non conductive and the adhesive doesn't attack the copper on the mother board.



    When you have the roll of tape in one hand and a BIG hammer on the other wondering which to use to make it fit, its time for a break ;-]

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Where the isolants washer goes?

The isolating washers typically go between the hex standoffs and the bottom of the motherboard. Often the motherboard manufacturer will want the board to be grounded to the chassis at a single point. If this is the case, the washer would not be included at this point. Typically, if this is the case, a different pattern is silk screened on the top of the board indicating that this is the non-isolated mounting point.
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PC runs for about 10 seconds then powers off

A) The first thing to check is the Power Supply.

Cannot depend on LED's lighting, or fans spinning; to include the Power Supply fan.

A Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, will have enough power to light those simpy LED's, and maybe spin fans; but NOT enough power to turn the Processor (CPU) on.

1) If ALL of those LED's (Light Emitting Diode), were on at once; they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses about 2 to 3 Watts.

3) A typical CPU (Processor) can use 51 to 130 Watts. Just depends on what Processor it is.

http://www.amazon.com/Intel-D865GBF-Socket-478-Motherboard/dp/B00009EQ08

(Not trying to slam your motherboard Chris, but $219 bucks?
You couldn't GIVE me that motherboard..........jus sayin')

Uses the Intel 865G motherboard chipset,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets#Pentium_4_chipsets

Scroll down a little

Can use Processors that need Up To 115 Watts. (Maybe higher)

Did you test the 3 Main voltage power rails?
3.3 Volts (DC), 5 Volts (DC), and 12 Volts (DC)
What were the voltages?

Or did you use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply?
How do you know it's good?

Moving on..........

B) I suppose an inspection of the Electrolytic Capacitors, should really be first. It is a visual inspection,

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lut7MX5Dd_A

However, you have replaced the motherboard. So we in good faith, have to assume the motherboard is good........(Or do we?)

This would lead to the Thermal Paste, on top of the CPU (Processor), has dried out.

Top of CPU, and bottom of finned Heatsink needs to be THOROUGHLY cleaned, and fresh, new Thermal Paste applied.

C) No? Power Supply has been deemed to be good?
Processor and bottom of Heatsink cleaned, fresh new Thermal Paste applied?

(4-pin ATX +12 Volt wire plugged into motherboard?
Power for the Processor,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4 )

......The motherboard is mounted to a Support Plate.
The Support Plate can be a separate sheet of metal, or an integral part of the motherboard.

Mounting the motherboard to the Support Plate, is accomplished with either plastic Spacers, or metal Standoff's.

IF, a Standoff is NOT mounted to a motherboard mounting hole, and is just standing out there; there is a good chance it will touch one of the exposed solder joints, on the bottom of the motherboard; and short the motherboard out.

Removing the 'offending' Standoff, or moving to an open motherboard mounting hole; may result in the motherboard working again.

Along with the Standoff's are Fiber Washers.
Rule of thumb is;

Motherboard mounting hole has metal ring around it? No fiber washers are used.
Motherboard mounting hole does NOT have a metal ring around it?
Fiber washer is used on both sides of motherboard mounting hole.

Let's consult the Intel D865BGF Product Guide,

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d865gbf/sb/cs-008983.htm?wapkw=d865gbf

Doesn't say.
Statement is, "Refer to your chassis manual for instructions on installing and removing the desktop board."

Motherboard may get it's ground, from those metal ringed motherboard mounting holes. IF PRESENT.

D) Motherboard is bad.
Electrolytic Capacitors are bad. If they do not show outward signs of failure, the Electrolytic Paste inside could be dried up. Would show no outward signs of failure.

Computer design engineers know this. They know the Electrolytic Paste inside is a chemical, and has a chemical reaction.
The chemical breaks down over time.

This is why computer design engineers use Electrolytic Capacitors, that are rated at TWICE of what is needed.
When the capacitor breaks down to 50 percent good, it is still 100 percent good for the application.

Now...................New/Old Stock, or not; that mobo is OLD.
(MOtherBOard)

E) Processor (CPU)
Very rarely one goes out. Overclocking, and getting it too hot?
Oh yeah. Bye-bye CPU.

There is one other way, though.........

A CPU (Processor) is the MOST, susceptible hardware component to Static shock.

If whoever has been handling it has not followed Anti-Static Procedures, drill a hole through it, and put a chain through the hole.
See? You've got a snazzy(?) necklace......

Motherboard can be used for a Frisbee, too.

F) Are you running a graphics card?
Power Supply has enough power for it, and the rest of the computer system?
Motherboard, Ram Memory, Case fans, CPU fan, optical drives (CD/DVD drive), and Harddrive/s.

http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

G) IF, the graphics card requires a power cable, does your Power Supply have the necessary power cable?

Post back in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette
1helpful
1answer

1 beep then shuts off

Hmmm, one beep is good! lol!

Means P.O.S.T. is good.

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16813186029

I see we're working with an AMD processor, and a Socket 462 (Socket A), motherboard.

Let's look at some basic installation problems for that motherboard, and see if any fit;

1) Since it is an AMD processor motherboard, you have to be SURE that Thermal Paste has been applied PROPERLY, and applied.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/274

An AMD processor runs hot, for the models that fit that motherboard.
If no Thermal Paste has been applied, the AMD processor could have burned up.

2) Anti-Static Precautions:
I know, I know. But you would be surprised with those of us, who do not know what Anti-Static Precautions are; and work on computers.
(Hmmm, wonder why it doesn't work? Must be a bad motherboard)

3) Mounting to the Support Plate.

The Support Plate can be a separate metal plate; or is part of the computer case.
Mounting of the motherboard to Support Plate can be done with plastic Spacers; or metal Standoff's.

(Standoff. Shapes vary a little, but basically; 3/8ths to 1/2 inch long, hex shaped, threaded shaft on one end; and a threaded hole on the other end)

If a Standoff is NOT mounted to a motherboard mounting hole; and is just sitting out there on the Support Plate; it can touch exposed solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard, and cause a Short Circuit.

MOST of the time if the 'offending' Standoff is removed; or placed where it should be, (Motherboard mounting hole), then the motherboard, etc may be OK.

4) Power Supply:

If the Power Supply was on it's last leg, this may be the 'straw that broke the camel's back'. Power Supply went to the Power Supply graveyard in the sky.

If the Power Supply does not have enough power (Wattage, and Amp's), then you would also see the problem you stated.

New Power Supply, or old? What is the manufacturer, and model number?
Post back in a Comment.

What AMD Socket 462 (Socket A) processor did you install?
What Ram Memory?
How many optical drives? (CD/DVD drive)
How many fans?

Post back in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette
1helpful
1answer

The psu is not even turning on -Jeffers help

A) You weren't FOLLOWING Anti-Static Precautions, and Static shocked your hardware components inside.

(See the little Processor ghost?


OK, OK. JUST KIDDING AROUND!
Get's pretty lonely here in the FixYa halls. Did see an Armadillo going down the hall, though. NO! For real!...........crickets chirping)

B) You don't have the main Front Panel wires, connected correctly to the pins of the Front Panel header, on the motherboard.
We'll go through them together.

C) The Power On switch is cr@P. (Did I say that out loud?)
Test it.

D) The Power Supply is bad. Weak voltage power rail.

(Got a multimeter? I'll guide you in using it.
About $5 to $12, and located everywhere. Just a cheapee Analog multimeter will do)

E) The motherboard is mounted to a Support Plate. The Support Plate can be a separate metal plate; or is part of the computer case.

Mounting of the motherboard to Support Plate, is done with plastic Spacers; or metal Standoff's.

Metal Standoff = Brass hex shaped, and with a threaded end on one side, and a threaded hole on the other.

IF, a metal Standoff is NOT matched up to a motherboard mounting hole, it can touch the exposed solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard; and short the motherboard out.

USUALLY, if the 'offending' Standoff is removed, the motherboard will work OK.

General rule of thumb is;
Motherboard mounting hole has metal ring - NO fiber washers. That's how the motherboard get's it's Ground.

Motherboard mounting hole has no metal ring? Use fiber washers.

At any rate, what is the motherboard manufacturer name, and model number;
Or,
what is the computer manufacturer, and model number.

Model number is on the back of the computer next to the Windows product key; or up on the side of the computer tower.
Post back in a Comment.

(Hurry, or I might go out with sum girlz)

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

[ Need to test the three main voltages coming out of the Power Supply.
3.3 Volts, (Orange wires), 5 Volts, (Red wires), and 12 Volts, (Yellow wires) All are DC Voltage.
ALL -> Black wires are Ground wires.

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply#Wiring_diagrams

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

Regards,
Ol' whats-his-face

(I mean joecoolvette)
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How to check the motherboard ASUS P4B8X if it is fried??

Quick and easy way to test. Take the motherboard out of the case and place it on the box it came in, with nothing more than the CPU, ram and video card (or use onboard if it is there). Connect the appropriate power connectors from the power supply and see if it boots.

Should get one beep and then the bios or possibly a Manufacturer's logo

if it boots, then put the motherboard back in the case taking care to make sure that all standoffs (the little brass nut type things) are where they are supposed to be and not making contact anywhere but where the mounting holes on the motherboard are.

If it doesn't boot while out of the case, there is a good chance that the board is dead (doesn't happen often, but duds to occur) and time for a replacement.
1helpful
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Hi i m pravin from INDIA . i m newly assemble mother bord but p.c. start only 30 sec. then off so what can i do

1) The metal plate that the motherboard mounts to is a Support Plate.
It can be a separate metal plate from the computer case, or part of the computer case itself.

Some Support Plates that are part of the computer case have protrusions, or 'Bumps' formed, that hold the motherboard up off of the Support Plate.

Other designs of Support Plates use metal or plastic supports that space the motherboard away from the Support Plate.

These supports are Spacers, or Standoff's.
A Spacer is made of plastic.
A Standoff is made of metal.

The metal standoff's have a hex shape around the middle, a threaded end on one end, and a threaded hole on the other end.

The Standoff's MUST match the motherboard mounting holes.
There Cannot be a Standoff sitting out on the Support Plate, that does not line up with a motherboard mounting hole.

If there is it can short the solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard, and cause the motherboard to short out.

Sometimes removing the motherboard, and making sure that all metal Standoff's line up with the motherboard mounting holes, will fix the problem.

Other times it is too late, and the motherboard is damaged.


2) Make sure ALL power cables from the Power Supply are attached, and securely attached.

If the motherboard requires a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable, make sure it is plugged into the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

If the motherboard requires an 8-pin EPS +12 Volt power cable, make sure you are not using just one 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#eps8


3) Be sure you have a KNOWN to be good Power Supply, and it has at least the minimum Wattage needed for your computer build.

4) Make sure the top of the Processor's case is clean, and the bottom of the Heatsink, and that Thermal Paste is applied, and applied properly.

5) Make sure you observed Anti-Static Precautions when you were building, and are building your computer.

Static shock will ruin a computer.

Regards,
joecoolvette
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1answer

My asus m2n32-sli motherboard won't start up; runs for 4 seconds then shuts off. currently hooked up to the mobo: have a 500W power supply; AMD 3300 64 processor; zalman cpu fan; 2 patriot 2GB DDR2...

Sounds like you built this puppy.

1) Does it use metal standoff's to hold the motherboard up off the Support Plate? (Standoff is metal, Spacer is plastic)

Do the standoff's match EVERY mounting hole in the motherboard?

To wit, there isn't a standoff sitting on the support plate, that doesn't match up to a mounting hole in the motherboard?
If there is a standoff in the wrong spot, it could be shorting against the exposed solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard.

2) is the 4-pin +12 volt power cable from the Power Supply plugged into the motherboard?

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

[ Two Yellow 12 Volt wires, two Black Ground wires ]

3) Thermal paste applied, and properly? AMD processors don't play when it comes to heat. If they reach the thermal limit, (Like any Processor), they turn off, BUT, an AMD will turn off in a heartbeat.

Heatsink sitting flat on the top of the Processor's case? I use a 'birds-eye' view with the mobo out, and look across the side. (Sides, ends)

4) Zalman fan doing it's thing? Spinning?
Spinning all the time, no intermediate spinning of spinning a few times, and stop?
Spinning at the proper RPM?

5) Patriot ram seated well? Locks are in tight?

Didn't get bumped when you were hooking up power cables?
Remove/re-seat. Only takes a few minutes, and will help you sleep better tonight.
(Both of those ram memory modules in the same channel?)

6) Power Supply known to be good?

What is with the 40GB Seagate harddrive? Typo, and meant 400GB?
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I have desk top GY 768AA w/serial no..ONH 8020PPB mother board is broken where can i buy a spare

Desktop computer cases have standard mounting holes and screw stand offs.
There are a huge range of motherboards available, select well known brands, my favorite are Gigabyte, Intel and MSI.
Select a motherboard with the features you require. If you are into gaming, graphics/CAD then select a motherboard that does not have a built-in graphics chip, and then you can get a high end graphics card.
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I will be replacing motherboard on an eMachine T1105. When I pulled the board out, if didn't have any standoffs. Should I install standoffs when I put the new board in? Are they really necessary?

Many machines have standoffs permanently pressed into the case, some have dimples formed into the mounting surface to act as standoffs. The motherboard and attached parts must not touch metal except at mounting holes, even when pushing in connectors.
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Biostar M4M70-M4 mounting question

Of course it could make a difference. Any contact between an active voltage on a motherboard and the metal of the case will fry the motherboard and possibly the P/S. There are different sizes of standoffs to fit different cases and motherboards. Sometimes if a person doesn't use a sufficient number of standoffs, one corner or another of the motherboard can be inadvertently bent toward the case ground causing a short. Even the raised mounds you speak of need standoffs of some type if the surface of the raised mound encrouches upon a surface of the motherboard that has voltage on it.
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