Oven will work fine and has no problem. The next time we go to use the oven it will not heat. High limit switch has been re-set twice and the problem has occured once again.
After grilling or cooking at higher temps leave the oven light on so the cooling fan continues to run for approx 1/4 hour, or whatever setting will keep the fan running...
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ur high limit trip because ur heater overshoots the program setting for the temp replace ur k4/k5 solid state relay for it controls ur temp for the heater.
Bad SSR relay. Thermostat is for safety so it tripped first time, however since it's mechanical thermostat( not so accurate ) it didn't tripped on time for next time when it overheat
The oven gets extremely hot during the self clean cycle, and it is common for it to trip the high limit thermostat located in the rear of the oven. If the problem happens when not in self clean, then you may have a weak high limit, or a bad temperature probe.The switch is located on the upper back left side of the oven. Here is a diagram of the oven. The switch is #119.http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=903528&pkw_=basket&model_id=5160477&NewWindow=1 Here is a link to the thermal switch in case you can't rest the one on your unit.http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/frigidaire-switch--thermal-item-number-ap2126993.aspx Try to do the reset and post back your results.
It generally is the IR Element that has gone bad. Look for burned wiring where the IR Element enters the oven cavity. Check for continuity through the IR Element.
1. Check that the blower motor is moving air. o Blower motor is not moving air: Check blower motor assembly and verify motor is stalled. Unplug oven and correct obstruction or replace motor. (For access to motor shaft, remove top panel.) o Blower motor is moving air: Verify high-limit thermostat is not tripped. See the high-limit thermostat information below. High-Limit Thermostat: o Thermostat tripped: Reset and determine why the thermostat tripped (See Figure 38, Item 114). Look for excess build up of grease inside the oven or any other source for a fire. o Thermostat is not tripped: Check main convection heater.
1. Convection heater is defective: Unplug oven and replace the convection heater and verify the K4 SSR (Figure 37) is not shorted across output.
2. Convection heater OK: Check the K4 SSR. o K4 defective: Unplug oven and replace. o K4 OK: Unplug oven and verify all wiring. Verify P1 voltage on I/O board is 5.0VDC (+/- 0.02) -
The most common probem is burned wires going to the heater on the top of the oven cavity. Typically you will see the coating on the wire close to the heater all cracked and bare. You can usually just cut the wire back an inch and pull some slack up and reconnect the wire and you will be good. In some cases the wire will be burned to much and the whole wire will need to be changed. Any oven repair shop will sell you these high temp wires. DO NOT use regular wires they MUST be high temp rated.
Here is some other things to check if the heater wires look good.
COMPONENTS IR Element The IR element - a dual coil type heater - is located in the bottom of the oven cavity. The first coil is the heating coil. The second is the IR thermocouple wire. The heating coil outputs 3000 watts at 208 VAC. The heating coil's resistance is 14.4 ohms at room temperature. The thermocouple coil is a Type K thermocouple with a resistance of approximately 20 ohms at the splices located approximately 6 inches from the heater and 40 ohms measured at the extension wires at the I/O control board. The IR element is controlled via the K5 solid state relay and the IR thermocouple via the I/O control board.
Also try this
1. Verify the high-limit thermostat is not tripped. o If high-limit is tripped, reset and allow the oven to warm up. o If high-limit is not tripped, follow the instructions below. High-limit thermostat is not tripped. Place a small water load in a microwave/heat-resistant container (approx. 275 ml) in the oven and place the oven in TEST MODE. Press the MGTRON key to actuate the microwave. While holding down the MGTRON key, watch the CC and IR temperatures. If either temperature bounces substantially, there may be a noise (EMI) problem. To correct this problem, examine the wire routing for each thermocouple wire. If the wires are routed near any high voltage components such as the magnetron or high voltage transformers, reroute the wires. If this does not correct the problem, verify that both magnetrons are securely mounted.
F8 means Heat rise low the oven failed to warm up in a predetermined time period. First check for problems with the blower and then check the high limit thermostat to see if its tripped. If these are okay call a repair tech because you will need to check the relays for problems
The high limit switch has tripped on this unit. Remove the vent panel behind the door and there will be a button in there behind the wires. Press this button with the circuit breaker turned off and that will rectify the problem. You still might need a servicer out to take a look at the unit though
Sounds like a bimetal switch is blown. first I would check SWITCH LIMIT BIMETAL next the LIMIT SWITCH-UPPER(LOCK)
Too check them first trip the breaker so you don't have power to the oven, then you will have to take the oven out of the wall..next remove the top cover. then in the center-front there are two round bimetal switchs with two wires coming out of them..remove the wires and check them with an ohm meter both should have continuity across them ...if no continuity you have a bad switch. let me know what you find out..
SOunds like you need to reset the oven high limit switch. It should be located behind the grille obave the oven opening and below the control panel. There should be about 4-6 screws you need to take out to remove the grille to gain access. Turn the power of to the oven at the circuit breaker, then rech in with a screwdriver and push down on the little red button in the center of the hig limit until it clicks. the high limit should be about as big around as a quarter and have a wire going into one side and out the other. If this keeps tripping, you may have a bad cooling fan. When you run a self clean it should also run a fan to cool the components. You should be able to feel a breeze coming out of the bottom of the oven when the cooling fan (not the convection fan ) is running. If this fan doesnt run, it will trip that switch. Hope this helps!
I also have a Dacor Model PCS130. This solution worked AND saved me from spending $50-$105 for a service technician to come out just to look at the problem.
The high temperature sensor tripped when I kept the door open part way while broiling (never listen to friends who don't have the same oven as yours). Afterwards, I couldn't get the oven to go above the prebake temperature of 135°F using any of the settings (bake, broil, convection bake, etc...).
I called Dacor customer service and they told me about the high temperature sensor but wouldn't say how to reset it. They suggested I call a third party technical service company and gave me their numbers. But, I'm glad I found this site...
All you have to do is open the oven door and you'll see the grille/grate/steel cover plate where the door latch sticks out of. If you look inside, you can see the electronics that operate the door latch as well as the temperature sensor unit a little farther back. You can even see the RED reset button. But, it's a little too far back for you to press it without removing the cover plate.
6 screws is what holds my cover plate in place. Once that's off, you can reach in and press the RED reset button (I pressed it twice just to make sure) and you'll hear it click. Screw the cover plate back in place. Close the oven door and test it out.
It took my oven about 5 minutes to heat up past 135°F so I was unsure if the problem was fixed or not during that time. But, once the oven heated up sufficiently, the temperature began climbing fairly quickly and I was able to breath a sigh of relief. It works!
This is such an easy fix, I don't know why Dacor customer support doesn't just tell us how to do it ourselves instead of paying for a service tech to come out and do the same thing. Even better, maybe they should make the reset button more easily accessible (like on the control panel) if they're concerned about people getting in and messing up the other electrical connections when trying to reset the high temperature switch. Computers are far more technically advanced than your oven and THEY have reset/reboot buttons right in front.
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