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1. The spray arm has an aluminum piece on the bottom side of the spray arm. It kinda separates away from the plastic arm and as the spray arm turns, it hits the inner door liner. You can see the scrape marks it makes on the door liner. You can bend the aluminum edge upwards with needle nose pliers or try to make it tight to the plastic spray arm by pushing on he tabs.
2. If you have removed the spray arm make sure the thin silver washer is still inside the hole were the spray arm inserts use a flashlight and look inside that section. If missing, it can also make a noise.
Hello,
I've owned the same Neptune since 1999 and had this problem happen to me twice, the first time the inside molded plastic door melted through in a circular pattern and had to be replaced. The fact that it was circular indicates that something was rubbing during the high speed spin. That something was a stiff bottomed duffle bag that was rubbing on the plastic door during high speed spin. The washer was full of other clothes that didn't allow the duffle bag enough room in the washer tub, hence it pressed against the plastic door. The second time it happened I got a circular groove melted in, but not through, the plastic door... caused this time by a small child's back pack. I would make sure "rigid" items have enough room to "float" in the tub cavity by not putting in other clothing that over packs the washer.
It does go under the foot well with i think another bolt but i think this one is steal as the others are plastic so will probably be rusty after removing the arch there should be enough room to remove the bottle especially if the wheels been removed
You will probally need to replace it, here is a link that will help Replacing a door seal I have used 100% silicone to plug the holes. This has held up for several weeks without leaking. I clean the area with alcohol and rub a layer of pure silicone thru the tear trying to get it on both sides. Try to keep the inside layer not to thick so clothes do not get hung up on it, let it dry for 24 hours and it should hold.
Check the door seal size. Measure your door or doors, and take down the make and model number.
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2Order a replacement door seal.
It's easy to find them online. Make sure to check the model number for
your refrigerator when you order it. When it arrives, hold the new door
seal up against the old door seal to compare the size. The sizes are
rarely incorrect, but it will save you the trouble of doing the job
twice if you happened to receive the wrong door seal.
3Locate the screws.
Lift the edges of the seal and find the screws underneath that are
holding in the plastic liner and door seal. Often, the screws hold in a
plastic liner, which in turn clamps the door seal to the door.
4Loosen the screws.
Begin to loosen the screws that hold in the door seal. DO NOT take the
screws all of the way out. It is unnecessary and will create more of a
job for you. If at all possible, loosen only a few screws at a time, as
you go.
5Remove the old seal.
Once all of the screws are loose, the door seal should easily slide out
from behind the plastic liner. Don't be too forceful when doing this
step, since some plastic liners can be quite brittle and crumble if you
are too rough. If the plastic is old, replace it.
6Insert the new seal.
Begin slipping the small lip of the new door seal behind the plastic
liner of the fridge. The best method is to start in the top corners and
work your way around the door.
7Tighten the screws.
Once the door seal is in a certain section, you can begin tightening
the screws. Begin with the 8 corner screws, and then check the
alignment of the door while closed. Also check that the seal is even
and straight. If the door is twisted, you can easily manipulate the
door to twist back into shape whilst the screws are loose. Then tighten
the remaining screws.
8Apply powder.
Use a bit of baby powder or talcum powder to prevent sticking. Rub some
powder around the hinge side corners of the door seal, and where the
seal slides. This will help to prevent the door seal from twisting as
it meets the metal of the fridge. If this still doesn't prevent
twisting, then wedge a screwdriver under the seal as you close the door
and leave it shut for an hour.
9Check for gaps.
Look for any gaps in the door seal, especially at the top on the
opening side. These can form due to the door dropping or being out of
alignment. One way to check is to turn on a flashlight and place it
inside, then close the door and look for light.
10Fix any gaps in the door seal.
Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the
gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as
shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal.
Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix
the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it.
11Check the corners.
If the application of powder hasn't prevented the door seal twisting,
then wedge a screwdriver under the seal as you close the door and leave
it shut for an hour. The door seal will then have enough time to mould
into the correct shape.
There are two screws underneath the window shade pull. You will need a long screw driver to get acess to them after you pull the window shade off. You should have enough access with what you pulled off so far to determine, if there is a plastic hose leak or not without going any farther.
The washer nozzle tip pulls right out of the wiper assembly, with a slight tug from a pair of pliers. But, you first need to unsnap the black plastic nozzle protector. It Lifts up and back toward wiper arm. These are very inexpensive (<$5.00) if you break it. Anyhow, taking out washer nozzle will allow you to determine if there is a clogg causing back pressure on the system wher ethe leaking in the lift gate may be emanating.
this are the possibilities for the leak :----- Door gasket loose/torn Corner gaskets or door baffle/vent gasket Door lock/latch loose/broken Split spray arm Over filling with water...usually the level is just under the heating element is normal Something leaking through the door...like the soap or rinse agent dispenser gasket, silverware basket button. Door hinge(s) bent Wrong soap was used...dish sink soap instead of dishwasher soap Rinse aid being used with mechanically softened water ( makes foam or suds inside the dishwasher )
Leaks from under the unit: Look for whiting or calcium stain on the motor and pump assembly = motor and pump assembly seal leak...access panel removal help Hose for upper spray arm split Fill hose split or fill hose spout air inlet is calcium covered Drain hose is split Rusted liner...metal liners only Fill valve leaking or allowing water to fill all the time Heating element ends....where they come out through the dishwasher liner Float or float gasket.
Hi, The plastic liner you are talking about, is it the outer tub? If you could get me a model#, I could look this up for you. Please let me know if I can help.
There was a hole in the plastic liner tub from the inner metal basket rubbing on it during the spin cycle. I got some plastic cement and put it in there and it willl hold for a little while while anyway. Not a very well designed washer when you look into the guts of the monster.
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