No Output Fuse OK Right Mono Plastic inside input crumbled Circuit Board darkened.

using any multimetr test PSU if OK, then disassembly laptop housing plug PSU in power socet and test power output from power socet to motherboard, iuf OK then look for fuse near power socet on motherboard and test it

I found this online. I didn't write it, I didn't try it, but it sure sounds good. First off, I had same problem with an old LifeStyle Series 12 and trying to get in to that case is like trying to get in to Fort Knox... I found these answers on a forum.. I wanted to let you know I didn't not discover them myself but it worked for me.. Also my fuse was bad... I am off to the electrical supply house as soon as I finish typing.. Without further ado:

OK Fellas (and Ladies), here's more detail on the blown fuse fix:
1. You can find the 'plastic swivel tab with notches' by looking for gear teeth in the top rear of the unit. To provide some context, I've placed the subwoofer with the serial number side down, horn is up-front and treble/bass dials on the left. Remove the dial knobs.
2. Now place the unit flat with the horn-side down. Literally use a tennis shoe to spank the plastic cover (on the same side as the gear wheel) in a 45 degree upward motion so the RCA plug holes in the plastic cover are dislodged from the jacks and the unit pops off. One good spank does the job *hee hee*.
3. 2 screws will be visible at the top of the green circuit board. Unscrew these and remove cable ribbons that attach circuit board to other pieces of the unit.
4. The fuse is a cylindrical glass piece, 5mmx20mm. Mine was burnt and coils were missing, an obvious sign of a blown fuse.
5. Don't go to radio shack to find a replacement. They are seriously under-equipped to assist. Go online or to a real electrical supply store to get a 3Amp, 250 Volt 5x20mm slowblow fuse. Don't try to call Bose either because this will inevitably result in more pain. They will try to coax you to order an owner's manual for $10 to get the part number, so you can pay an inflated rate to get the same piece from them. Grrr.
6. I saved $200 - thanks to all contributors on the board. Good work.
7. If this advice helps you, do something nice to help a homeless or mistreated animal. Humans can never be too kind to the rest of the creatures on this planet


Holy ****!!

OK, Bose owners out there listen up and listen good. Here's the real scoop on 1.(getting access to the inside of most bose subwoofers, 2.( repairing said subwoofer.

Follow these steps in removing the cover of your subwoofer. Unscrew the two screws from the cover. (They are on the input/output side of the cover) Remove the two knobs (Bass and treble volume). On the opposite side of the cover, (put those damn shoes back in the closet) there is a lockout tab that needs to be swung out, it moves 90 degrees in a counter-clockwise direction and is located under the center of the cover. A small flat blade screwdriver works great for swinging this tab out and will be necessary for the next step (the screwdriver that is). On the same side (opposite the input/output side) there are two small tabs near the edges of the cover, one on the right and it's counterpart on the left. If you look closely in the gap between the cover and the sub itself, you will see these 3/8" wide tabs near the edges and towards the top of the cover. With the flat blade screwdriver, put the blade between the cover and on the tab and pull down. Then with your hand balled into a fist, gently hit that side of the cover towards the input/output side. the cover will move only slightly but the tab should remain depressed. Do the same procedure on the opposite side of the cover and it will slide about a 1/2 to 3/4" towards the input/output side and can then be removed by pulling it straight up and off of the cabinet.

Yay! If you get this far without incident then you are ready to implement repairs. In the case of the AM15's, normally what happens is a resistor will open up and prevent the triac (turn-on device) from firing. The fuse is on the underside of the PC board and this above mentioned resistor is a 100 ohm, surface mount "chip" resistor on the top side of the PC board. It will not appear to be bad but trust me, if the fuse is good and the sub will not turn on... replace it! You don't have to use a chip resistor since as a consumer you may have a rough time finding one but a 1/8 watt or 1/4 watt resistor you can find at any Radio Shack will work just dandy in this application. Cut the leads short and solder the two cut leads to the pads on the circuit board where the chip resistor is currently sitting. The chip resistor will be black, about 1/4" long, 1/8" wide and have "101" printed on it's surface. On some models they used two 200 ohm resistors in parallel but the result is the same. One 1/4w axial lead resistor will do just fine. Plug it up and give it a try. (Before you replace the cover).

Secondly, if the fuse is blown on a "Lifestyle" Bose subwoofer, contrary to popular belief, it blew for a reason. The speaker outputs and the subwoofer output devices are TDA7294 IC's with TIP142 and TIP147 Motorola transistors used as current supplements to these said output devices. If the fuse is blown and replacing it only results in another blown fuse then chances are good that one or more of these are blown. In some cases it's very easy to tell, the front of these IC's will be blown off and/or you will see burn marks on the board where they are mounted. These devices are located inside the amp portion of the subwoofer. (The black metal heatsink underneath the input/preamp PCB. As a consumer, if the fuse is blown, unless you are familiar with soldering techniques and troubleshooting electronics, leave this to the pro's. It isn't as easy as you might think and you can destroy the PCB in your attempts to repair it.

On Lifestyle 25II and Lifestyle 30II systems there is a problem with the surround portion of the sub system. Inside on the surround PCB there is a 400 MHZ crystal that clocks converted (to digital format) audio signals through the surround processing area of the sub. These crystals fail and the system, although it powers up just fine, has no output at all or it is intermittent

The red light means NOTHING regarding the battery condition... If battery is not new, try a new one.

I have seen several problems... some people get the cables backwards for input and output. The INPUT cable is what turns on the battery and it has to be a mono cable.

ANOTHER common problem with ABUSED pedals is that the jack used for external power adapter gets smashed at some point and cracks the circuit board near it. USUALLY the light will not come on when this happens.

Byond this, it probably requires repair. Some are easy to open and others are a bear to get the circuit board out... key is to NOT force very much when working on these.

Your convergence fuse is fried. Go to ebay and get this item number 130475583409 rca convergence fuse

Hello
Your Emerson TVs audio format is not stereo; it is mono. Therefore only one audio input will be active. There is a Note give on your TVs manual. I copies it here for your information.

1. VIDEO (IN) jack- Connect to the video

output jack of a video camera or VCR.

2. AUDIO (INPUT) L/R jacks- Connect to

the left/right channel audio output jacks of

a video camera or VCR.

Note: The AUDIO (INPUT)L jack is for

mono input. The sound is heard from both

speakers. Use this jack for monaural audio
equipment to be hooked up.
OK.

reason is there is separate bass on both input channels that you want to include in the sub channel. For example, if bass drum is on left channel and bass guitar is on right channel, you need both to hear all of the bass music from your single sub. OK?

Ok, you're going to choose 1 set of inputs for the subs on the amp (I usually use the low or rear which ever has more settings) Now in the output side you're going to use the positive side of the right side speaker and the negative side of the left side speaker (you can switch left or right as long as they are opposite sides). Lets start with the negative wire connect it to the negative input on one of the subs, connect the positive wire to the positive input on the OTHER sub, then get an extra wire to connect the inputs not used on both subs. Adjust settings in amp and radio and if it doesn't sound good use negative and positive outputs from one single output (only left or only right) Hope this helps.

The fact that the channel works in mono mode indicates that the output amplifier section is working correctly. The problem is in the front end. This can be as simple as a bad control, or the stereo separation circuit. Without seeing the unit and testing some components inside, this will be a difficult problem to solve remotely. The expensive parts are usually in the output amp section, so this repair should not be expensive from a parts perspective. I would budget around $20 for parts and have a repair shop take a look. I work on units of this vintage all the time, and usually the problem is a failing transistor or cap in the front end. Finding it is the problem not replacing it. Look for a shop with experience with this vintage.

Keep us posted.

Dan

no power, 1st you need a tester tester (range 1000vac) first the convinience outlet if there a voltage 2nd test the power cord if there a continuity(range your tester into resistance x10) put it in to the tip to tip of the C.O power cord of your turntable(the reading will have contunuity) if still no power check the fuse inside the turntable" remove the platter and the plastic be carefull trace where the power cord connect inside the circuit(maybe the fuse blown) if the fuse is still ok 4th check the contunuity of the transformer the input and output line(in tester there will have a reading supposed to be) after all if theres still aproblem just email me..hope i can help that way..

Just to see if the set reacts and it does something different tap the sides of it,dont over do it ,I should not take much to see a reaccion if it has a loose conection,If it reacts check for loose conections in the power supply,horizontal driver transformer and any overheated areas specially after the output transformer.If you are familiar with tv service this should help but if you are not be safe and call for assistance from a servicer.