Doe s anyone knows how to charge R12 Ge model

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Aracey Air Conditioning Valve Core Kit ' Car & Home AC R12 R134a Teflon Seal Refrigeration Schrader Valve Core with Valve Stem Core Rmover Tool Air Conditioning AC System Charging Port Seal Caps Kit

certain water heaters had a tube that dissolved, you take 1/2 in. copper flare one end of it, drill a1/8 in. hole in pipe 4 in. below flare ,remove cold water nipple on tank install new copper tube, cut tube to 3 inches off bottom of tank depth , reconnect cold water supply you should be good.

Hi
if you mean the pipe is down by the compressor, this is how they normally do it since they normally do not come with service valves, but they should have removed the valve and soldered it closed. It probab;y only uses about 6 ounces, but it probably is R12. It can be converted to 134A but not sure if it cost effective. Also, when they added refrigerant years ago, did they repair the leak because you may have a couple issues

Small units such as yours are disposable, but can be charged through the process tube. Refrigeration systems are sealed units and refrigerant don't just evaporate out in thin air. There must be a leak in the system. After repairing the leak, the system must be evacuated of all air that was pushed into it by atmospheric pressure or it will never work properly. To charge it, you need a piercing type schrader valve and attach it to the process tube (resembles a pig tail at the end of the coil, crimped off).

There should be a small valve on the inlet side of the plastic tubing, tapped into the cold water side copper tubing. May be near your water heater. follow the tubing back if possible to find this small valve. It should be installed onto the cold water copper tubing. This valve is a self tapping valve & wraps around the copper tube. It then is turned clock-wise so it penetrates the copper tube & also will act as a shut-off valve. Be sure to open this valve once your finished by turning counterclock wise 3 or 4 complete turns. If it should leak at the top, just turn the hex nut on top where the needle goes into the copper tube, clockwise about 1/2 turn. This should stop the leak.
Good Luck. If all else fails, there should be a shut-off valve on the outside of the house where the water enters the home. You may be smart to hire a plumber for this, if it was to break, you will have a mess that you can't stop. The City would have to shut off the water at the street & may be expensive.

If the leak is on the refrig water valve where the wall water line connects to , then use a 1/2" wrench and tighten the fitting on the water valve itself . If the leak is on the plastic tubing at the bottom of the refrig water valve , pull up on the small white ring while pushing down on the plastic tube to remove it from the valve . Cut off about 1 " of the tubing and reinsert it into the valve with pretty good pressure to be sure it is inserted completely .

That is called a " cap tube separation " . It can be caused by overlooking a defrost problem for too long . If the coils inside of the freezer frost up , that frost , will eventually work its way out thru the back toward the compressor . When it does this , the " low side ( suction ) " , receives liquid refrigerant , instead of gas . This liquid refrigerant , will destroy the compressor internal valves , causing it to loose the low side . ( Never charge a refrigerator low side with liquid , only gas . The high side can be charged with liquid . ) A cap tube separation , is when the pressurized ( causes heat ) cap tube , becomes separated from the low side ( suction ) tube , causing the suction tube to frost up , due to the cap tube no longer attached to it . When this happens for too long , the only repair , is to replace the compressor AND repair the separation , with wire ties , thermal putty sealant and aluminum tape .
I apologize for the technical explanation , but there is no other way to explain it .

Sir,
Check out the water dispenser is working good condition or not. also check the value. Also the dual water valve did indeed fix the problem of no water in the icemaker. It was very easy to change out. First unplug the refrigerator, turn off the water to the icemaker and then pull out the refrigerator for easy access. Have a small pan ready to catch the water in the tubes. The water valve on my refrigerator was located at the right rear and was screwed via a bracket to a frame member. Remove the fiber or cardboard cover which is about 4'x1' to get to the valve. It might be a good idea to take a digital picture now of the old water valve showing the orientation of the plastic tubes; when you replace it the tubes should have the same orientation so you have no worry about a kink.
Remove the copper tubing from the valve with a half inch wrench, then unscrew and remove the two plastic tubes. Drain the tubes in the small pan. Mark the tubes (right and left) so you know where they go on the new valve. Unscrew the entire valve from the frame (two screws) and pull the valve out carefully. Remove the two electric plugs from the old water valve and mark them left and right.

The copper tubing goes back in the new valve but do not use the old compression washer. I cut the tubing off about one inch because the old compression washer would not come off. I also used the new half inch copper nut which came in the kit instead of using the original. Slide the copper nut up the copper tube, slide on the compression washer, then slide the copper tubing down inside the fitting on the new water valve. Screw the copper nut securely with a half inch open end wrench. The copper tube probably was secured to the back of the refrigerator with a bracket so remember to put it back into the bracket; this prevents the tube from getting bent when you are moving the refrigerator back and forth.

Next screw the original plastic tubes (left and right) onto the proper fitting of the new water valve. Be careful not to screw them too tightly; do not use a wrench.

Then plug the electrical connections back into the new water valve, left and right. Carefully push everything back inside the bottom of the refrigerator and screw it back to the frame. Take a look at your picture and make sure the tubes are oriented properly. That's it. Turn the water back on the copper feed tube, plug it in, and make sure nothing leaks.

Replace the fiberboard and push the refrigerator back to the wall. If the icemaker does not start immediately, put about 1/2 cup of water in the tray and let it restart the cycle. It will freeze the water, eject the cubes, and then magically water will flow back into the itray.
Thanks Good Luck

There are two possible reasons for the situation as you describe it: 1. Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve lets water enter the machine. If this valve is defective, you need to completely replace it. It's usually located behind the lower access panel on the left or right side. It's the device with the main water line (usually copper) from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it.
2. Float switch The float switch is a small electrical switch that's located right below the dishwasher "floor." Above the switch, on the inside of the dishwasher, is a plastic cylinder that floats up as water fills the dishwasher. If this switch is defective, or if the plastic float gets caught or trapped in the raised position, the water can't enter the dishwasher. If the float switch is defective, you need to replace it.

If you are mechanically inclined you can repair either of these but if you are not you will have to hire it done. Now that you know it is one of two problems you can tell the repairman ahead of time and get a price on the repair. Then shop around for the best price.