My fzr 1000 is leaking gearbox fluid by the looks of it ,i start it up and when i put it in 1st gear it cuts out before i even let the clutch out. but if i put it in 2nd gear it doesnt cut out,, is this because the gearbox oil has leaked to the point there is not enough in there,, or is it another problem??

If it jumps out of gear then the drive dogs on the side of the gears in the gearbox are worn and need replacing along with the matching drive or driven gear.the oil type is 10 w 40 only use this and also make sure it not fully synthetic or the clutch will slip.

I would be checking the cable and clutch adjustment first as if the clutch is not completely disengaging then the gear shift problem occurs

sounds like like ur kickstand safty switch may be faulty

sounds like your clutch is going out, is it hard to put in gear with clutch all the way depressed? could also be the sinkronyzer going out, could be the gears in the transmission also going bad. need to check the fluid in the transmission.

Several things could cause this. You are going to wind up taking the bike to a dealer for a first hand check. The shift shaft could be broken, a spring on the shaft could be broken, The main drive gear on the crank shaft could be stripped or loose on the shaft, The clutch could be totally shot, Synthetic oil in the gearbox can mess up a clutch, The shift drum could be frozen, A gear shaft could be broken. The dealer can do an external check and give an educated guess as to the cause, but it is highly likely they will need to remove the right side case for inspection. What they find there will rule out a few things and help to find the cause. If the clutch, shift shaft and primary drive gear all look good then the problem is inside the gearbox and it is going to be an expensive repair. Parts availability is likely to be a problem. The best source I am aware of is Babbitts Sports Center. Go to www.babbittsonline.com/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx Please rate my answer. Thanks.

check hydraulics for leaks by looking at the slave cylinder on the gearbox activating the clutch fork,pull the rubber boot back (no fluid o.k)look at the clutch pedal under the dash and peel that rubber boot back(no fluid o.k)bleed it to be sure by pumping the clutch pedal,holding it down and getting someone to crack the bleeder on the slave cylinder on the gearbox,HOLD the pedal down and tighten the bleeder first before releasing the clutch pedal,otherwise air will be sucked in if you pull the pedal back first.If that doesnt work you probably need a clutch but this is more likley and check the line running from the master to the slave for leaks and tightness

Does the bike have a sidestand switch that cuts the power if the stand is left down? If it does, disconnect it and temporarily join the ends together and try starting....

check the detent balls in the gear box also check simple things like mounts and clutch adjustment